Page 10 – Sparky's Answers

2008 Chevrolet Cobalt, Blower Inop

This 2008 Chevrolet Cobalt came in with the complaint that the blower motor did not work at all. It had been working intermittently. Looking under the passenger side of the dash behind the glove box I found the two wire harness connector at the blower motor.

The brown wire should have had battery power on it with the ignition on. It had no voltage present.

The orange wire should have had a full switched ground signal on it with the blower switch at the high position. The amount of battery ground will change if the blower switch is at any of the lower speeds. It will go open if the blower switch is in the off position. The ground circuit tested okay. The ignition does not have to be on to check the ground circuit.

The next logical place to test was at the blower relay. It is listed on the fuse block legend as the HVAC relay at position #30. I did a quick test by feeling the relay and switching the ignition to see if the relay clicked. It did and that proved that the circuits to the terminals 85 and 86 of the relay were working. Next I confirmed that there was battery power at terminal 30 at the relay socket. It was present. If it had not been present I would have proceeded to the BCM 3 fuse in the underhood fuse block for further testing. I then used a fused jumper wire and connected terminals 30 and 87 together in the relay socket.

This should have sent power directly to the blower motor but the motor still did not work. Testing again at the blower motor found that power was still missing on the brown wire.

I had already consulted the wiring diagrams for this system before testing so I knew that there was an in line harness connector (X210) at the far passenger side of the dash. To locate it I removed the glove box assembly starting with the cable retainer at the right side of the glove box.

To do this the outer edge of the black clip has to be lifted slightly so the the clip can be slid towards the front of the glove box and removed.

The stop peg on the left side has to be pushed inward to release the left side of the glove box.

When the glove box swings fully down it exposes the hinge pins. The right one has to be lifted slightly and then that corner of the glove box has to be pulled towards the seat. Then the center one needs to be dropped down. Finally the left one has to be lifted up and the glove box again pulled towards the seat.

I had found this connector without pulling the glove box out but I found it easier to see and work with the glove box removed. A close look at the next picture reveals darkening of the brown wire insulation near the connector. I tried to pull the connector apart but it was melted firmly together.

I simply cut the in line harness connector out and spliced the wires back together. I made sure that the ignition was off so that I would not blow the fuse that powers the brown wire.

Later I used pliers and a screwdriver to separate the old connector and exposed the burnt terminal.

After repairing the faulty wiring connection I used a headlight bulb and harness connector with the appropriate terminals installed to check power and ground at the blower motor connector. I already knew that the blower motor was now working correctly but I just wanted to show another test method for those that may be interested. Caution should be used in doing this test as the bulb can get very hot. Safety glasses are also recommended as the glass portion of the bulb can shatter. It is safer to do this test with a sealed beam headlight.

The next picture shows the light burning dimly with the lowest blower speed selected.

Blower speed 2 selected.

Blower speed 3 selected.

Blower switch set to high, speed 4.

The varying light intensity is caused by the ground supply voltage being reduced through the blower resistor. High speed bypasses the blower speed resistor on the orange wire.

I prefer using a headlight style bulb as opposed to a regular test light as it requires more current to operate it. The same test with a regular test light will not show as distinct a difference between the blower speeds.

An additional note to this repair was that after the system was back working I found that the blower speed would change if the connector to the blower motor was wiggled around. I disassembled the connector and re bent the terminals spring tab in order to tighten its connection to the mating blower motor terminal.

Changing the Crank Sensor ,Code P0335, On An H2 Hummer

In case you were ever wondering how to change a crank sensor on an H2 Hummer all I can say is you need to be about six feet tall and be able to get into the following positions.

Much shorter and you will not have the arm length needed. Much taller and I am not sure if you can fold up enough to fit.

Although I may appear to be asleep in the next picture I am not. I have found over the years that when I cannot see what I am doing it is actually easier to close my eyes and only feel what I am doing.

2011 Nissan Rogue, Changing The Front Turn Signal Bulbs

This 2011 Nissan Rogue came in with the complaint that the right turn signal would flash very quickly when turned on. I did a quick visual inspection and found that the right front turn signal bulb was flashing on the wrong element. It was evident to me as it was not as bright as it should have been and as compared to the other front turn signal. both rear bulbs flashed equally as bright. Also looking closely at the bulb I could see that the taller element was the one that was lighting up and not the shorter/brighter element. This is generally caused by a poor ground to the bulb. The element cannot utilize the main bulb ground so it uses a back fed ground from the park light element.

The front turn signal/park light socket is shown in the following picture. It is the recessed white part at the very center of the picture.

It can be removed without removing the headlight assembly. It twists and pulls out of the lamps assembly.

Once it was out I realized that the bulb had been recently changed. I checked and the bulb itself was okay.

However removing the bulb revealed the problem that I was looking for. The side ground terminal was collapsed and not providing an adequate ground to the light bulb. The power contact terminals also seemed to be collapsed. There was absolutely no evidence of heat build up so the diagnosis was that of possibly aggressive bulb replacement coupled with a weak design had collapsed the terminals. I used a small pocket screwdriver to bend the tabs back out and restore the spring tension to the terminal contact points.

If there had been any evidence of heat build up or if the terminals had seemed excessively weak I would have had to order new sockets.

Now the light was working as designed. While I had to hood up I repeated the process on the driver’s side front turn/park light socket.

2008 GMC Sierra Denali, Multiple Electrical Problems

This 2008 GMC Sierra Denali came in with multiple electrical complaints. The blower did not work. The left side stoplight, all left side turn signals, the right side mirror turn indicator. All of the power windows except for the right rear window did not work. There were a multitude of codes scattered through various modules. Most were stored in the DDM and the PDM. I did some testing of various circuits and decided there must be a problem with some of the major power supply fuses.

The 40 amp Blower fuse at position #70 was blown.

The 60 amp LBEC2 fuse at position #72 was also blown.

The underhood fuse box legend

Some of the testing that lead me to the underhood fuse box was the fact that all of the fuses in the row I am pointing to with my test light were unpowered even with the ignition on.

The driver’s side fuse box legend.

It took a little bit of looking around but I found where the wires were shorting out above the parking brake assembly.

A little bit better view of the shorted wiring harness.

A clear view of the shorted out wires with the harness tape pulled back.

In the end I had to cut and splice one of the wires back together. The other two only had the insulation slightly damaged so I wrapped them with live rubber tape. Wrapped that with regular electrical tape. Wrapped the wiring harness back up where the tape had previously been removed then covered all of that with some large split loom. I also reformed the harness to stay away from the parking brake assembly.

I found it easier to work by removing the under dash panel on the driver’s side of the truck. There is a 10 mm headed bolt that holds the parking brake release handle in place.

Once the bolt was removed the handle assembly had to be slid towards the firewall in order to disengage the hooks.

There are two phillip’s headed screws along the lower edge of the panel that have to be removed. One at either corner.

Then the panel can be pulled from the dash by pulling it towards the seat. That will disengage the retaining clips.

2009 Lexus ES350 Evaporator Core Replacement

These are just a few pictures that show just how much has to be removed in order to replace a leaking evaporator core in a 2009 Lexus ES350. This was my first time doing this job on this year,make and model of vehicle so it was a bit of a learning experience. I don’t do a detailed breakdown of such an extensive job until I have done it at least twice. The next picture shows the white HVAC box just before it comes out of the vehicle. The most difficult and time consuming part of this repair was removing and installing the major cross bar that supports the HVAC case and the rest of the dash assembly. The wiring harness is wrapped around the bar and it took two of use to snake it out of the car and back in. In retrospect I should have went ahead and removed the seats, shifter assembly, flipped the carpet further back and pulled all of the harness above the bar to make the job easier. I possibly would not have needed help removing the bar if I had done that. I will have to time it out in order to decide which is the more cost effective way.

The hole in the firewall slightly high and to the right of center is where expansion valve protrudes through into the engine compartment so that the refrigerant lines can be attached. The opening above the gas pedal area is where the heater core lines pass through the firewall.

It took me between 10 and 12 hours to complete the job this time and I learned a few things along the way.

The next time I should have it down to between 6 and 8 hours because I will take pictures along the way. Experience tells me that after one or two times of doing this job it can most likely be done in 4 to 5 hours of steady wrenching.

2007 Ford F150 Battery Light Stays On

This 2007 Ford F150 came in with the complaint that the battery light would come on about 30 seconds after the engine was started. The voltmeter in the dash indicated the alternator was charging. Checking the system with my charging system analyzer found the charging voltage was good at 14.23 volts and the amperage was at 14 amps. The battery and the alternator had been replaced before it arrived at my shop. I checked the codes and it had a code P0620 stored. In most cases the code P0620 is caused either by a faulty or incorrect alternator. Since the alternator on this truck had just been replaced the day before, I was suspecting an incorrect or at least a non compatible alternator. The alternator for this vehicle interacts with the PCM or engine computer. A used alternator with the same mounting configuration but the wrong electrical circuits will not communicate with the PCM and would be incorrect. The correctly listed replacement alternator with a low quality voltage regulator will also not communicate with the PCM therefore making it incompatible.

To test the basic communication lines between the PCM and the alternator is quite easy. Ford engineers must have anticipated some problems and installed an inline connector to aide in this process. It is located at the front of the passenger side engine cylinder head. It has two wires. Light Green/Orange and Light Green/Red. It is kind of difficult to tell the two wires apart so you have to look closely. I used backprobe pins to access the circuits and a voltmeter to take readings. In this case it was enough. The Light Green/Orange wire has 12 volts applied to it from the PCM and the alternator’s voltage regulator toggles that signal to ground in a regular pattern creating a square wave. I found 12 volts present at all times, looked at the alternator wiring and found the harness disconnected from the voltage regulator connector. Turned the engine off, plugged it in and retested. All okay. I was alittle surprised that the PCM did not set any other codes such as a P0622. The signal must be at about a 50% dwell rate since the voltage with the system operating correctly was a nominal 6 volts. Since I was already here I wanted to do some more testing. Monitoring the Light Green/Red wire with a voltmeter was not as productive as I had hoped. I found a nominal zero volts with an occasional flash to .2-.4 volts. This was at about five second intervals so I did realize something was happening. I remembered afterwards that I could have set the min/max feature on the voltmeter and captured the signal but I had already moved on to looking at the signal with a lab scope.

The green lead of the scope is connected to the Light Green/Orange wire and the signal can be seen on the green trace. This circuit is known as the GEN-MON (generator monitor) and it is a feedback circuit from the regulator to the PCM. Remember that the PCM outputs 12 volts and the regulator toggles that signal to ground at a nominal 50% dwell rate resulting in an average voltmeter reading of 6 volts.

The yellow lead of the scope is connected to the Light Green/Red wire and the pattern can be seen on the yellow trace. This circuit is known as the GEN-COM (generator command) and it is a signal sent from the PCM to the regulator. The signal varies with the electrical load determined by the PCM. If the PCM determines a higher electrical load from the headlights , blower or etc being turned on it will flash a series of rapid battery voltage pulses. In the images that I captured there were two pulses flashed from the PCM. At this point I can only assume if more electrical loads were applied by turning various systems on that there would have been more pulses. If true, the signal could also be captured more readily on a voltmeter by applying the higher electrical loads on the system.

The GEN-COM pattern repeats in five second intervals.

In hindsight I wish I would have applied more loads and captured that image. The next time I get one of these truck back in I will try to capture that image and voltmeter readings.

The Ford alternator used on this vehicle was in the 6G 110 amp IF/IR family with a 337 plug code.

To check the regulator basic circuitry you must measure the resistance between each terminal and the case of the alternator with an ohmmeter. The resistances should be as follows.

Pin 1 to ground should be greater than 1000K ohms.

Pin 2 to ground should be greater that 125K ohms.

Pin 3 to ground should be greater than 125K ohms.

2011 Nissan Rogue, Changing The License Plate Bulbs

This 2011 Nissan Rogue came in with one of the license plate or tag light bulbs blown. Replacing the bulbs is actually quite easy. Lift the tailgate and look at the interior panel. There is a rectangular cover with a screwdriver slot at one end. I found it difficult to remove the cover by prying in this area.

Instead I went to either side of it and slid my pocket screwdriver in and pried and twisted it a little. Then I moved to the other side in the same general location.

Looking up into the opening the tag light bulb sockets can be seen.

I twisted them both out and replaced both bulbs even though only one was acting up. They have both been on the same amount of time and lived through the same vibrations. So the other one will likely fail soon.

Both tag light bulbs working.

I should note that pulling the tailgate back down slightly to get a better angel made the job a little more comfortable.

2004 Chevrolet Tahoe, Compressor Will Not Turn On

This 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe came in with the complaint that the a/c was not cold due to the compressor not coming on. Whenever the a/c was turned on the snowflake on the digital display would flash. This Tahoe has auto a/c controls. I checked codes with my Tech 2 scan tool and there was a code B0159 stored for an issue with the ambient temperature sensor. I looked at system data stream and could see that both the raw and filtered outside air temperature readings were at -40 °F and that a/c permission was not granted. Time to go find the outside air temperature (OAT) sensor. The sensor is located behind the passenger side daytime running lamp socket.

The first step is to rotate and pull the pins for the passenger headlight assembly.

Then remove the headlight assembly. The light assembly does not need to be electrically disconnected and fully removed from the vehicle unless you just choose to.

With the headlight assembly positioned out of the way the locking tab for the DRL assembly can be depressed…

…. and the assembly pulled loose from the vehicle.

The OAT position can be seen in the next picture. It is merely snapped into a retaining hole just to the inside of the DRL socket.

The OAT and it’s harness assembly. Note that it is a new sensor that I had just installed.

The old/original OAT in my hand and the new one hanging below.

The new sensor installed.

Testing the sensor wiring is as follows.

The light green/black wire should have a nominal 5 volt signal which is supplied from the HVAC control head assembly on terminal B.

The brown wire is a system low reference signal (return ground) and is supplied from the HVAC control head assembly on terminal K.

The higher the resistance the colder the reading. An open connection between the two circuits will yield a -40°F reading on the scan tool.

The lower the resistance the higher the reading. A shorted connection between the two circuits will yield a 100°F + reading. I did not take an actual reading during this test as it was not relevant to the current issue.

The data will be reported on the scan tool as Outside Air Temperature Raw.

After replacing the sensor the data reading changed to actual ambient temperature which was 95°F. There was also about 90% relative humidity. Those conditions coupled with the pressure to get the job done are why I do not have some pictures. In particular scan tool screen shots.

There will be another data line in the scan tool data listed as Outside Air Temperature Filtered. That data line appears to refer to the sensor used for the thermometer built into the rear view mirror. I also had a reading of -40°F on this circuit as well. The displayed temperature in the rear view mirror fluctuated between -40°F and -26°F. The compressor was still not coming on.

Time to move on to the other OAT sensor. It is located in front of the condenser assembly and is accessed by removing the cover over the top of the radiator and condenser area. That panel is held in place by push pin retainers. The center pin has to be lifted most or all of the way out before the main pin can be pulled free.

With the cover removed and looking down on the driver’s side between the condenser and the grill the OAT sensor can be seen.

Now you would think that by simply changing the faulty sensor everything would go back to work and both the raw and filtered data would be correct with actual conditions. Not so. I suspect that they would have adjusted if I would have had test driven the vehicle but since I was still working on the refrigerant system that was not going to happen anytime soon. Under “Special Functions” there is a command function to perform and “Instant Update” for the OAT. Performing that task updated the data and the compressor came on as it should have. There was no code for the -40°F reading of the Filtered OAT. I had tried using that function before to try and rectify the condition with the faulty sensor and it did not work. It only worked with a good sensor installed. Well kind of. While I was waiting on a new sensor I connected my decade resistance box to the circuits and played around with the values. I knew the signal that was being generated by the suspected faulty sensor was about 1.45 volts and that correlated with a -40°F to -27°F thermometer reading. I found that a .4 to .6 volt reading resulted in a 95°F reading on the thermometer. Disconnecting the sensor from the harness resulted in a reading of OC. Jumping the terminals together with a jumper wire resulted in a reading of SC. My assumption is that OC means open circuit and SC means shorted circuit. By the way, the above tests that resulted in the OC and SC readings was enough to tell me that the sensor was the problem.

2006 Hyundai Tucson, Park Lights Stay On

This 2006 Hyundai Tucson came in with complaint that the park/tail lights would not turn off. As you can see below the park lights are on….

…. and the light switch is off.

Testing begins at the interior fuse box at the driver’s door opening. I am pointing to the right hand tail light fuse. Oddly enough the left hand tail light fuse is just to the right of the right hand fuse. I know it is a very small thing but wouldn’t you think that the left hand tail light fuse would be to the left of the right hand tail light fuse. But I digress.

I used a terminal that is the same size as a mini fuse blade terminal. Checking for power on the left side of both of the fuse slots indicated that power was being sent out from the tail light relay but remember the switch is off and the relay should be deactivated.

I also checked for power on the right terminal at each fuse slot. There was no power which was good thing. If there had been power on those two terminals it would have meant that the tail lights were on with the fuses removed and that they were being powered by an alternate power source.

A little bit of research showed that the tail light relay is built into the interior fuse box. There are a few screws that hold the under dash trim panel in place. All of the screws have phillip’s heads. One at each lower corner of the panel.

Two just to the rear of the hood release handle. The panel just unsnaps from the dash once the screws are removed. There is also a metal panel under this plastic panel. All of those fasteners have 10 mm heads. The data link connector also has to be removed from the panel by squeezing in the latches at either end of the connector.

There are three fasteners that hold the fuse block to the dash. Almost impossible to see so there are no pictures. Although all have 10 mm heads, two are bolts and one is a nut. The lower bolt at the forward edge is easy to get to. The upper bolt along the forward edge and the nut on the inside edge above the harness connectors are difficult to see and needed a swivel socket and long extension to remove them.

Once the fuse block is dropped down it is just a matter of disconnecting the harness connectors. There are also three harnesses that are secured to a metal strap at the lower forward edge of the fuse block. You should have probably disconnected the battery before getting to this point. I was scheduled to install a new fuse block that was ordered from a local dealer the day before. The customer and myself were both quite pleased when we were told the fuse box price was about $78 USD plus $8 USD for expedited shipping. Low and behold it came in and was the wrong part. They had ordered and sent the underhood fuse block instead. A few phone calls and a fax later and the proper part was identified but the price had changed to $358 USD and not in stock. Had to be ordered again. Mind you that it is Friday afternoon on Labor Day weekend. Time to switch plans.

If at all possible I would like to fix the relay inside the fuse block. I started by removing all of the fuses from the assembly. Then I went around the outside edge of the fuse block assembly and pried the sides apart to release the latches.

A gentle wiggle and the cover was out of the way. The green circuit board assembly took a little more wiggling and prying to remove it from the plastic case.

I did not know which relay was at fault and it would be very dangerous to try and reconnect everything with the circuit board outside of the plastic case so I decided to remove all of the relay covers. The larger relay covers were not too hard to remove. I slid a curved pick under either side and flipped them up with little difficulty.

Of course I found no problems with the contacts on either of the two larger relays.

That meant removing the cover from the smallest relay. I had to pry along the edges of that cover in the same manner but in the end I had to break the cover in order to remove it.

I inspected the contacts of the smaller relay with a magnifying glass and could see the build up of material on one of the contacts. What happens on any relay is that when the contacts are move to the closed position there is an arc. When the arc occurs metal is displaced from one contact and usually transfers to the opposing contact. This happens many time in the life of the relay. A hill of metal fragments build on one contact. The other contact that is losing metal has a valley formed in the contact face. After enough build up is formed the two surfaces mechanically stick together. I am pointing to the contact are of the relay below.

I used a utility razor blade to shave the hill off of one contact and therefore removed the mechanical locking forces that were causing the contacts to stick together. It was that mechanical force that was keeping the park/tail lights on. I used super glue to add extra support to the relay covers that had been removed earlier.

In the end this Labor Day Weekend was going to be a little bit better for both me and my customer. They had their vehicle and my head hurt a little less.

2006 Honda Accord, Passenger Power Windows Do Not Work

This 2006 Honda Accord came in with the complaint that all three passenger power windows did not work. The driver’s window worked fine. This is a relatively common issue and the vast majority of the time the driver’s power window switch is the culprit but I thought that I would show some basic tests and suggest a method of overcoming without having to purchase a $200 USD switch assembly. Start by locating the interior fuse box and testing for power on the passenger power window fuses with the ignition on and the lockout switch off, red line showing. They are fuses 24,25 & 26.

The first three yellow 20 amp fuses in the upper row. Remember the ignition needs to be on and the lock out switch turned off (red line showing). I did not have power to any of those fuses. Fuse 27 was powered and good but I already knew that since the driver’s power window works. I should also mention during all of this you will notice that there is a clicking noise that comes from each of the passenger doors when the passenger switches are operated on the driver’s door.

Time to test the circuits at the driver’s power window switch. I have found that this is the best place to start lifting the panel from. Doing so will allow the inner side of the switch to come up and then the rest will release without any trouble. Trying to lift on the outer edge first is more difficult and could mar the plastic with pry marks.

Like I stated earlier the rest of the switch retainer clips release pretty easily one the inner edge is lifted.

Now on to testing. Two things need to be tested. There needs to be power in the white green wire and both black wires need to have a constant ground.

Luckily this was s straight forward test as shown with the meter reading below. For this test the lockout switch needs to be on meaning that the red line is not visible. If I would not have had a clear reading I would have had to of used other tests to chassis ground and battery voltage in order to determine if there was a broken wire or other issue somewhere.

The voltage stayed the same….

…. regardless of the lockout switch position.

This is the expected and real voltage with the new switch assembly installed ….

…. with the lockout switch off. The terms on and off are strange in reference to this switch. As far as user function is concerned the switch is considered on or lock out function activated when the button is pushed in and the red line is not showing. It is considered off or the function unlocked when the button is in the out position with the red line showing.

Electrically it is just the opposite. Remember the white/green wire that had to be tested for voltage? That voltage is actually bleed through voltage from the passenger window relay’s internal coil. The switch grounds that wire and turns the relay on by applying a ground to the circuit. That is why the voltage drops. So turning the switch off functionally is electrically turning the switch on to complete the relay circuit. To extend the life of the switch assembly it should be left in the on position without the red line showing. This keeps the load off of the relay and the driver’s master switches internal circuitry.

Now what to do if you need the passenger power windows to function but the switch is faulty and you do not have the funds for a new one. Remember the white/green wire. You can apply a temporary ground to that wire, turn the ignition on and operate the windows. You cannot leave the added ground in place though as it will keep the relay energized even with the key off and the battery will go dead. I do recommend removing the wire from the switch harness connector before grounding the white/green wire. If want want a slightly more convenient alternative to a new switch you can add a momentary on off switch between the white/green wire and chassis ground. This will result in having to hold the momentary switch in the on position and operate the desired window switch at the same time. Releasing the momentary switch will deactivate the circuit and lockout the passenger windows.

My choice is to always install a new factory master window switch when there is a failure but I do understand that circumstances sometimes dictate another path. If you replace the power window switch you will need to do some minor relearn and programming procedures.

Remote Programming:

First of all the vehicle remotes will need to be programmed to the vehicle once the power window switch assembly has been replaced. To do so all you will need to sit in the driver’s seat with the hood, trunk and all doors closed.

Turn the ignition on, position (II).

Within 1 t0 4 seconds press remote lock or unlock button with the remote pointed towards the power window switch assembly. If only one remote/key assembly is available it will work from the ignition switch location as long as the battery is strong.

Within 1 to 4 seconds turn the ignition off.

Repeat this process for a total of four times making sure to never let more than 4 seconds transpire between actions. At the end of the fourth cycle you should hear the door locks activate on their own. As soon as the movement is heard push the lock or unlock button one more time. This is when the actual remote transmitter code is stored. The rest of the actions you took are merely getting the system into learn mode. If you have more remotes that you want to program to the vehicle simply aim them at the power window switch and press the lock or unlock button once. The door locks should cycle indicating the remote was learned. This must be done within 10 seconds of the very first remote being learned. A total of three remotes can be learned to a vehicle.

Turn the key off and remove it from the ignition. Test all remotes to confirm their operation.

I recommend choosing either the lock or unlock button at the beginning and using that same button function the whole way through the programming procedure.

Relearn Auto Window Limit Functions:

The Honda method without a scan tool is as follows:

1. Begin with sitting in the driver’s seat with all doors closed.

2. Turn the ignition switch ON (position II).

3. Move the driver’s window all the way down by using the driver’s window DOWN switch.

4. Open the driver’s door.

NOTE: step 5-8 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.

5. Turn the ignition switch OFF.

6. Push and hold the driver’s window DOWN switch.

7. Turn the ignition switch ON (position II).

8. Release the driver’s window DOWN switch.

9. Repeat step 5-8 three more times. These actions are performed to clear out the old stored memory

10. Wait 1 second.

11.Confirm that AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN do not work. If AUTO UP and DOWN work, go back to step 1. Now the system is ready to learn the new positions.

12.Move the driver’s window all the way down by holding the driver’s window DOWN switch to the AUTO DOWN position.

13.Pull up and hold the driver’s window UP switch to the AUTO UP position until the window reaches the fully closed position, then continue to hold the switch for 1 second.

14.Confirm that the power window master switch is reset by using the driver’s window AUTO UP and DOWN function.

If the window still does not work in AUTO, repeat the procedure several times, paying close attention to the 5 second time limit between steps. If it still does not work, you will need to diagnose the system using a scan tool then relearn the positions.

Auto Window Universal Relearn Procedure:

The auto window function will also need to be relearned. This can be done by turning the ignition on and pushing the down button and holding it down for 2-3 seconds after the window bottoms out. Then hold the switch in the up position until the window tops out and stops moving. Again hold the switch in that position for an additional 2-3 seconds. Switch the ignition off and back on. Test the window for proper auto down and auto up functions. This method works on many vehicles.