This 2006 Honda Accord came in with the complaint that all three passenger power windows did not work. The driver’s window worked fine. This is a relatively common issue and the vast majority of the time the driver’s power window switch is the culprit but I thought that I would show some basic tests and suggest a method of overcoming without having to purchase a $200 USD switch assembly. Start by locating the interior fuse box and testing for power on the passenger power window fuses with the ignition on and the lockout switch off, red line showing. They are fuses 24,25 & 26.
The first three yellow 20 amp fuses in the upper row. Remember the ignition needs to be on and the lock out switch turned off (red line showing). I did not have power to any of those fuses. Fuse 27 was powered and good but I already knew that since the driver’s power window works. I should also mention during all of this you will notice that there is a clicking noise that comes from each of the passenger doors when the passenger switches are operated on the driver’s door.
Time to test the circuits at the driver’s power window switch. I have found that this is the best place to start lifting the panel from. Doing so will allow the inner side of the switch to come up and then the rest will release without any trouble. Trying to lift on the outer edge first is more difficult and could mar the plastic with pry marks.
Like I stated earlier the rest of the switch retainer clips release pretty easily one the inner edge is lifted.
Now on to testing. Two things need to be tested. There needs to be power in the white green wire and both black wires need to have a constant ground.
Luckily this was s straight forward test as shown with the meter reading below. For this test the lockout switch needs to be on meaning that the red line is not visible. If I would not have had a clear reading I would have had to of used other tests to chassis ground and battery voltage in order to determine if there was a broken wire or other issue somewhere.
The voltage stayed the same….
…. regardless of the lockout switch position.
This is the expected and real voltage with the new switch assembly installed ….
…. with the lockout switch off. The terms on and off are strange in reference to this switch. As far as user function is concerned the switch is considered on or lock out function activated when the button is pushed in and the red line is not showing. It is considered off or the function unlocked when the button is in the out position with the red line showing.
Electrically it is just the opposite. Remember the white/green wire that had to be tested for voltage? That voltage is actually bleed through voltage from the passenger window relay’s internal coil. The switch grounds that wire and turns the relay on by applying a ground to the circuit. That is why the voltage drops. So turning the switch off functionally is electrically turning the switch on to complete the relay circuit. To extend the life of the switch assembly it should be left in the on position without the red line showing. This keeps the load off of the relay and the driver’s master switches internal circuitry.
Now what to do if you need the passenger power windows to function but the switch is faulty and you do not have the funds for a new one. Remember the white/green wire. You can apply a temporary ground to that wire, turn the ignition on and operate the windows. You cannot leave the added ground in place though as it will keep the relay energized even with the key off and the battery will go dead. I do recommend removing the wire from the switch harness connector before grounding the white/green wire. If want want a slightly more convenient alternative to a new switch you can add a momentary on off switch between the white/green wire and chassis ground. This will result in having to hold the momentary switch in the on position and operate the desired window switch at the same time. Releasing the momentary switch will deactivate the circuit and lockout the passenger windows.
My choice is to always install a new factory master window switch when there is a failure but I do understand that circumstances sometimes dictate another path. If you replace the power window switch you will need to do some minor relearn and programming procedures.
Remote Programming:
First of all the vehicle remotes will need to be programmed to the vehicle once the power window switch assembly has been replaced. To do so all you will need to sit in the driver’s seat with the hood, trunk and all doors closed.
Turn the ignition on, position (II).
Within 1 t0 4 seconds press remote lock or unlock button with the remote pointed towards the power window switch assembly. If only one remote/key assembly is available it will work from the ignition switch location as long as the battery is strong.
Within 1 to 4 seconds turn the ignition off.
Repeat this process for a total of four times making sure to never let more than 4 seconds transpire between actions. At the end of the fourth cycle you should hear the door locks activate on their own. As soon as the movement is heard push the lock or unlock button one more time. This is when the actual remote transmitter code is stored. The rest of the actions you took are merely getting the system into learn mode. If you have more remotes that you want to program to the vehicle simply aim them at the power window switch and press the lock or unlock button once. The door locks should cycle indicating the remote was learned. This must be done within 10 seconds of the very first remote being learned. A total of three remotes can be learned to a vehicle.
Turn the key off and remove it from the ignition. Test all remotes to confirm their operation.
I recommend choosing either the lock or unlock button at the beginning and using that same button function the whole way through the programming procedure.
Relearn Auto Window Limit Functions:
The Honda method without a scan tool is as follows:
1. Begin with sitting in the driver’s seat with all doors closed.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (position II).
3. Move the driver’s window all the way down by using the driver’s window DOWN switch.
4. Open the driver’s door.
NOTE: step 5-8 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
6. Push and hold the driver’s window DOWN switch.
7. Turn the ignition switch ON (position II).
8. Release the driver’s window DOWN switch.
9. Repeat step 5-8 three more times. These actions are performed to clear out the old stored memory
10. Wait 1 second.
11.Confirm that AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN do not work. If AUTO UP and DOWN work, go back to step 1. Now the system is ready to learn the new positions.
12.Move the driver’s window all the way down by holding the driver’s window DOWN switch to the AUTO DOWN position.
13.Pull up and hold the driver’s window UP switch to the AUTO UP position until the window reaches the fully closed position, then continue to hold the switch for 1 second.
14.Confirm that the power window master switch is reset by using the driver’s window AUTO UP and DOWN function.
If the window still does not work in AUTO, repeat the procedure several times, paying close attention to the 5 second time limit between steps. If it still does not work, you will need to diagnose the system using a scan tool then relearn the positions.
Auto Window Universal Relearn Procedure:
The auto window function will also need to be relearned. This can be done by turning the ignition on and pushing the down button and holding it down for 2-3 seconds after the window bottoms out. Then hold the switch in the up position until the window tops out and stops moving. Again hold the switch in that position for an additional 2-3 seconds. Switch the ignition off and back on. Test the window for proper auto down and auto up functions. This method works on many vehicles.