Page 9 – Sparky's Answers

2003 Ford F150 Interior Fuse Box Identification

2003 Ford F150 Interior Fuse Box Identification. Below you will find an image of the interior or central junction box. Each component is identified and there is a legend below. Clicking on the image will enlarge it.

Fuse Legend

1 (15A) – Radio, Video Cassette Player, Rear Seat Entertainment (RSE) Module, Rear Integrated Control Panel (RICP).

2 (5A) – Instrument Cluster, Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) Module, Natural Gas Vehicle (NGV) Timer Jumper.

3 (20A) – Data Link Connector (DLC), Cigar Lighter (Front).

4 (5A) – Mirror Turn Signal Relay (Left & Right), Exterior Rear View Mirror Switch.

5 (15A) – Digital Transmission Range (DTR) Sensor, Reversing Temps Switch, Speed Control Servo, Function Selector Switch Assembly, Temperature Blend Door Actuator, Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Relay 1.

6 (5A) – Generic Electronic Module (GEM), Brake Shift Interlock, Instrument Cluster.

7 (N/A) – Not Used.

8 (5A) – Generic Electronic Module (GEM), Radio, Video Display, Video Cassette Player.

9 (N/A) – Not Used.

10 (N/A) – Not Used.

11 (30A) – Windshield Washer Relay, Wiper Run/Park Relay, Wiper High/Low Relay, Windshield Wiper Motor.

12 (N/A) – Not Used.

13 (20A) – Indicator Flash Relay, Brake Pedal Position Switch.

14 (15A) – Battery Saver Relay, Interior Lamp Relay.

15 (5A) – Generic Electronic Module (GEM), Brake Pressure Switch, Brake Pedal Position Switch.

16 (20A) – Instrument Cluster, Headlamp (Left & Right).

17 (N/A) – Not Used.

18 (5A) – Main Light Switch.

19 (N/A) – Not Used.

20 (5A) – Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Generic Electronic Module (GEM), Radio.

21 (15A) – Clutch Pedal Position Switch, Clutch Triple Function Switch Jumper, Central Junction Box (CJB), Digital Transmission Range (DTR) Sensor.

22 (10A) – Restraints Control Module, Passenger Air Bag Deactivation (PAD) Switch.

23 (10A) – Trailer Tow Relay (Battery Charge), 4×2 Center Axle Disconnect Solenoid, 4×4 Center Axle Disconnect Solenoid, Indicator Flasher Relay, Transfer Case Electric Clutch Relay, Mechanical Shift on the Fly (MSOF) Relay, ABS Control Module, Heated Seat Module (Driver & Passenger Front), Seat Heater Switch (Driver & Passenger), Overhead Console, Electrochromatic Inside Mirror Unit.

24 (10A) – Function Selector Switch Assembly, Blower Motor Relay, Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) Module.

25 (10A) – Heated Mirrors.

26 (10A) – Headlamp (Right).

27 (5A) – Main Light Switch.

28 (10A) – Headlamp (Left).

29 (5A) – Transmission Control Switch, Autolamp Sensor, Central Security Module, Belt Minder Module.

30 (30A) – PCM Power Diode, Ignition Transformer Capacitor 1, Ignition Coil, Natural Gas Vehicle (NGV) Timer Jumper, Instrument Cluster, Passive Anti-Theft Transceiver Module.

31 (N/A) – Not Used.

2003 Ford F150 Underhood Fuse Box Identification

2003 Ford F150 Underhood Fuse Box Identification. Below you will find an image of the underhood or battery junction box. Each component is identified and there is a legend below. Clicking on the image will enlarge it.

Fuse Legend

1 (20A) – Power Point.

2 (30A) – PCM Power Relay.

3 (30A) – Main Light Switch, Headlamp Relay, Multifunction Switch.

4 (20A) – Power Point, Console.

5 (20A) – Trailer Tow Relay, Parking Lamp; Trailer Tow Relay, Reversing Lamp.

6 (15A) – Main Light Switch, Park Lamp Relay.

7 (20A) – Horn Relay.

8 (15A) – Central Security Module.

9 (15A) – Daytime Running Lamps Resistor, Fog Lamp Relay.

10 (20A) – Fuel Pump Relay.

11 (20A) – Generator.

12 (20A) – Power Point, Rear.

13 (15A) – A/C Clutch Relay.

14 (N/A) – Not Used.

15 (10A) – Running Board Lamps (Left Front & Rear, Right Front & Rear).

16 (15A) – Alternative Fuel Control Module (AFCM), Alternative Fuel Indicator Switch, Fuel Injectors.

17 (2A) – Brake Pressure Switch.

18 (15A) – Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor, Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Fuel Injectors 1-8, Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve, Fuel Pump Relay, Fuel Pump Cutoff Relay.

19 (10A) – Trailer Tow Connector.

20 (10A) – Trailer Tow Connector.

21 (N/A) – Not Used.

22 (N/A) – Not Used.

23 (15A) – Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Vent Valve, EVAP Canister Purge Valve, Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #21, Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #11, A/C Clutch Relay, Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #22, Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #12, Automatic Transmission Module, Camshaft Position Sensor, Intake Manifold Runner Control (IRMC) Module, Bi-Fuel Power Relay.

24 (N/A) – Not Used.

101 (30A) – Trailer Tow Relay, Battery Charge.

102 (50A) – ABS Control Module.

103 (50A) – Central Junction Box (CJB).

104 (30A) – Transfer Case Relay Module, Transfer Case Electric Clutch Relay, Mechanical Shift on the Fly (MSOF) Relay.

105 (40A) – Blower Relay.

106 (20A) – Charge Air Cooler Pump Relay.

107 (N/A) – Not Used.

108 (30A) – Trailer Tow Connector.

109 (N/A) – Not Used.

110 (30A) – Accessory Delay Relay.

111 (40A) – Ignition Switch.

112 (30A) – Adjustable Pedal Switch, Power Seat Switch (left).

113 (40A) – Ignition Switch.

114 (N/A) – Not Used.

115 (20A) – Central Security Module.

116 (40A) – Rear Window Defrost Relay.

117 (40A) – Audio.

118 (30A) – Heated Seat Module (Driver & Passenger Front).

601 (30A) – Accessory Delay Relay.

602 (N/A) – Not Used.

2003 Ford F150 Theft Light Flashing

This 2003 Ford F150 came in with the complaint that the engine would not fire up and run. The starter worked, the theft light flashes quickly and the odometer reads all dashes instead of numbers. Scanning the PCM found that it would not communicate with the scan tool. There was a code U1262 ( missing standard corporate protocol communication bus malfunction) stored in the IPC/HEC (Instrument Panel Cluster /Hybrid Electronic Cluster). Basically the IPC/HEC set a code because it knows that another computer module is not talking to it. An interesting note about the flashing theft light. Turn the ignition switch to the run position and watch the theft light as it flashes quickly for one minute. After the 60 second period of the theft light flashing rapidly the light will go out. Then it may start flashing slowly in a pattern. One flash, a pause and then 6 quick flashes. the pattern will repeat. The pattern is a two digit code of one followed by a six. The code is a 16 and is equivalent to a U1147 or a U1262. I already had pulled the code U1262 with my scan tool.

All of the evidence is pointing to a problem with the PCM not communicating. The next step is to check the voltage on the red wire at the idle air control (IAC) solenoid assembly, the mass air flow (MAF) sensor or at any injector connector. with the ignition on. There should be a nominal 12 volts present. The reading I got was .378 volts.

The PCM power relay (pointing to below) supplies power to the red wire mentioned above. Installing a new relay restored battery voltage to the red wire circuits.

Testing the output signal of the PCM power relay can also be done at several fuses in the underhood fuse/relay box. Fuse number 18.

Fuse number 23.

Switched ignition power for terminal 86 of the relay comes from the #30 fuse (30 amp) in the central junction box / interior fuse box.

I also replaced the fuel pump relay at the same time since it will likely fail in the near future.

The engine now started and ran, the theft light went out and the digital odometer reading was restored. With the mileage on this vehicle I should also point out that the odometer is sometimes just blank. That is a completely different problem and I have covered it here.

1996 Nissan Pathfinder, Installing a New Positive Battery Terminal

This 1996 Nissan Pathfinder came in with cranking problems and one of the first things that I noticed was that the positive battery cable end had been replaced and that the crimp connection seemed questionable at best.

Upon closer inspection is was just plain bad. I was able to easily pull the cable out of the terminal crimp area.

The second issue was that the square headed bolt that came with the battery terminal would not seat into the factory splice pack terminal. Not to mention the fact that the bolted connection was not able to be secure because of the springiness of the clamp.

Even though I had already cleaned the battery post when I took the next picture, you can see the pits in the metal caused by arcing.

To fix this connection permanently I used a pair of needle nosed pliers to mostly straighten out the curved tabs around the outer edges of the brass terminal. Then I used another pair of flat jawed slip joint pliers to flatten out the entire terminal.

I clipped off the extra metal tabs around the sides of the terminal and then file the edges smooth. I also had to enlarge the hole with a hand reamer. A drill could be used but it is more dangerous. If used I strongly recommend holding the terminal assembly with a pair of pliers.

I crimped and soldered a new ring terminal onto the main battery cable end. Then sealed it with some heat shrink tubing.

I used a standard nut and lock washer. The supplied brass wing nut could not be used due to how close the reed plastic material is to the stud.

One last thing I used what is called a universal marine style terminal. There are three types of marine terminals, positive, negative and universal. The positive terminal will have a 3/8 inch stud where the negative and the universal have a 5/16 stud. The negative terminal cannot be formed to fit the positive post without a lot of work and specialized tools. The universal terminal has the 5/16 stud that I needed for this repair and it can be formed to the positive terminal without too much trouble. In case you did not know it the positive battery post on a top post battery is larger in diameter than the negative post.

2005 Buick Century, Hard Crank No Run Condition

This 2005 Buick Century came in with the complaint that sometimes the engine would not start and using the turn signals would cause the engine to stall. It belongs to a local used car lot and they did not tell me all of this. Had to figure it out on my own over several days. They just stated that sometimes it would not start. Well it showed up with a dead battery so I had to recharge the battery and check for codes. There were a ton of codes stored. Most were related to poor voltage readings in various modules and a couple of VATS codes. There were both VATS and standard keys in the ignition. I cleared out all of the codes. After the battery was up, the engine cranked and ran normally for several days. Making assumptions that they were possibly using the wrong key to start the vehicle I installed a VATS bypass chip and backed the car out of the shop and parked it. I came back to it about an hour later to move it around and it would not start. The symptoms that I now had were that the starter would begin to work and then just kick out and stop working. The dash lights would flash on and off and relays could be heard clicking in the same manner (steady pattern). I am not sure why I tried this but I pulled the headlight switch on, the clicking stopped and the engine would again start and run normally. Turn the headlights off and the engine would stall. The clicking and flashing symptoms would return. I was leaning towards a loose ground or a faulty BCM. Put the car back in the shop for the night so I could start on it first thing in the morning. Guess what back to cranking and running normally. For the next couple of days I did some research on the symptoms only to find none exactly like the symptoms I had experienced with this Buick. I did however find that there is a very common symptom of the engine stalling when the turns signals are applied. I checked for this problem and sure enough it would stall whenever I turned on either one of the turn signals. The cause for this is generally a faulty ignition switch but I wanted to do some testing just to be sure. So I went to the passenger side interior fuse block and measured the voltage on the PCM fuse with the engine running.

I compared that reading to the voltage on the Accessory Power Buss fuse and found a two volt difference.

Further monitoring of the voltage on the PCM fuse saw the voltage drop as low as 6.89 volts.

Turning the turn signals on dropped the voltage down to less than half of a volt.

I referred to a wiring diagram and found power for the PCM fuse came from the large pink wire at the ignition switch.

I saw the same general voltage fluctuations while testing on the pink wire at the ignition switch harness connector.

This article is more about how to test rather than how to change the switch out. The procedure is very similar to others that I have done in the past.

In the next picture I am pointing out that removing the two upper steering column retaining nuts will allow the column to drop down. This a makes it easier to remove the upper steering column cover without having to remove the instrument cluster trim panel that runs from one side of the dash to the other.

In the next few pictures I want to point out a few of the differences between a quality ACDelco / GM ignition switch and a cheap knockoff. I felt compelled to do this since the switch that I took out was a nearly new switch.

The two switches have blue locking bars in the harness connector. The one on the left is darker and made of a weaker plastic that is more prone to melting. The wire insulation on the left is slightly thicker but also a weaker material that again is more prone to melting. In case you did not know the one on the left is the defective switch that I removed from this vehicle and the one on the right is a new genuine ACDelco part.

The genuine ACDelco part has a higher quality electrical tape securing the harness wiring together. It also has a numbered band with a part number code on it.

Even the metal ring on the defective switch was made poorly.

The defective switch had a series of numbers stamped on the end panel in yellow ink.

Nothing wrong with that but I pointed it out since the genuine ACDelco switch did not have these numbers printed on it.

I know it is hard to tell with just pictures when one would really need to see these switches in person. I am trying to draw distinctions to the cheapness of materials that are visible externally in order to get you to think about the overall quality of parts. One other thing that I would like to point out. It is entirely possible that the person that bought and installed the failed switch may have thought that they were buying a genuine branded part. There are a lot of knock offs and counterfeit parts out there. So in addition to buying parts from a trusted brand like ACDelco you also need to be buying those parts from a trusted supplier.

GM Cars & Trucks 1960’s, 1970’s & 1980’s, Blower Inoperative Erratic

This vehicle came in with the complaint that the blower motor would work sometimes but recently it had gotten to where it did not work at all. I hardly ever see vehicles this old in my shop anymore. This is one problem that I have fixed dozens if not hundreds of times over the years but I have never gotten the chance to perform it since I started this site. It is a little odd in that it covers so many years, makes and models of GM vehicles. I know that it goes all of the way back to the 1960’s and well through the 1980’s. I think there may be some that still used this setup in the 1990’s. Whether it was a Buick, Chevrolet, Cadillac, GMC, Oldsmobile or Pontiac, if there was an option for factory air conditioning for a particular vehicle it has this connector. The diagnosis always starts the same. Customer states that there is a blower issue. Testing finds that the blower fuse is good and powered with the key on but there is no ignition power at the blower motor, blower resistor, blower switch or the mode switch. By the time you have gotten to checking for ignition power at the mode and blower switches you are very close to the real problem.

Behind the HVAC control panel you will find a single brown wire with a two piece black connector body. It will generally be between six and eighteeen inches from the back of the control assembly.

There you will find signs of heat build up either in the wiring insulation, the plastic connector bodies or both.

The repair is simple enough. Cut the damaged connector out and splice the two wires back together.

I use seamless terminals and heat shrink tubing to insulate the terminal.

Battery Cable Ring Terminal Repair

A friend of mine brought in a set of battery cables off of a golf cart that he was working on to have the cable ends repaired. He asked what I thought caused the problem and I told him it was simply a badly designed terminal and connection process.

While working on the cables I decided to do a quick tutorial on why it is such a poor design.

First of all the actual metal terminal is made out of a thin piece of stamped steel tubing. As you can see in the next picture I am holding one of the removed terminal ends with the magnet on a pocket screwdriver.

If you enlarge the next picture and look closely you can see the thickness of the steel that is sandwiched over the inner copper cable strands.

This next picture shows just how thin of edge of metal surrounds the inner opening.

More evidence of the thinness of the material and the way it is designed.

I took one of the “good” terminals and ground the outer edges down on the bench grinder and then separated the pieces.

Enlarge the next picture to see just how this is constructed. The cable insulation is stripped away and then inserted into the steel tube. The tube is then pressed flat on the lower 2/3 of the tube. It is also compressed on the upper third to secure it to the cable’s insulation jacket. Finally a hole is punched into the flattened end. This is all pretty much done at the same time in the automated machine.

The reasons why it is such a poor design are:

Poor choice of metal for the terminal, rusts away.

Insufficient thickness of materials.

Open cavities within the final product that allows for movement.

Easily distorted which leads to poor clamping forces.

All of these conditions lead to resistance in the circuit. Cycling excessive heat buildup from the original design leads to rapid failure. Many times the failure will also damage the attaching components. My very first experience with this design problem was on my own car over thirty five years ago and I have been fighting them ever since.

My repair is to install a heavy duty brass terminal with a brazed seam and firmly crimp it in place.

Follow that with soldering the exposed end of the cable to seal and slightly strengthen the connection point. Care is taken to insure that excessive solder is not added to the point it travels back into the main cable.

A little bit of heat shrink tubing with an inner sealing liner and this repair is complete.

Nine more to go and I will be done on this project.

2011 Cadillac DTS, Battery Goes Dead Overnight

This 2011 Cadillac DTS came in with the complaint that the battery will go dead if the car sits for more than 12 hours. I traced the drain to the Driver’s Door Module fuse (DDM) in the rear underseat fuse block. I used an amp meter connected in series between the battery negative terminal and the battery negative cable. I followed this with a millivolt drop test across all fuses until I located and removed the suspected fuse from it’s circuit.

Standard operating procedure is to start testing at the battery and fuses. In hind site there was a much easier way to locate the suspect condition so in this post I am not going into all of the testing that I had to do to isolate the root problem. With the ignition off, observe the lights on the power mirror selector switch. The amber light would come on and a very light click could be heard in the DDM asssembly. The click was much louder and easier to hear with the DDM switch assembly removed. DDM stands for Driver’s Door Module.

The DDM can be removed from the door panel by sliding a small screwdriver or similar plastic tool under the leading edge of the DDM in order to depress the locking clip. There is a second clip at the rear of the DDM. I am showing the clip with the DDM removed from the door panel so you can have a better view of the clip.

I checked wiring diagrams and connector pin outs in order to better test the voltage signals. I found that I could remove the green data line wire from the connector and the problem would go away. The trouble was that this signal was a symptom and not the cause of the problem. It took a great deal more testing than I can get into here to find the actual cause. The problem was really located on the orange wire that goes between the DDM and the Memory Seat Module Recall Switch.

To get to The Recall Switch the door panel needs to be removed. The trim panel behind the interior door handle had to be removed. I used a small screw driver to pop the panel out.

Once out of the way the hidden screw could be removed.

The next step is to go around the outside edge of the door panel and pull the panel loose from the door. There are quite a few of the push pin style retainers behind the door panel. Because of the design you have to push the limit between pulling hard enough to release the clips and hard enough to break the door panel.

Once all of the retainers are loose around the outside edge of the door panel, the panel needs to be lifted straight up about an inch or two. Then the panel will come loose from the door. In the next two pictures are images of the two steel retainers that secure the center part of the panel to the door. When the panel is properly removed those clips will be retained in the door panel. After the panel is removed the retainers have to be removed from the door panel and…

….. reinstalled onto the plastic tabs located on the doors interior. If you try to pull the interior area of the door panel any direction except straight up the plastic components will be broken.

The memory recall switch assembly is held in place on the door panel by clips along its outer edge. It can be gently pried loose with a small screwdriver. The switch assembly can then be disassembled in the same manner.

Looking closely in the next picture you will see green corrosion on the circuit board. Just above the three resistors in a row. Click on the picture to enlarge. The only thing that had to be done to fix this problem was to use a plastic bristle brush to clean the corrosion from the circuit board. The cause of the corrosion was likely one of a few things. Rain from a window being left down, rain from the door being opened repeatedly while raining or over zealous use of liquid cleaners on the door panel.

2008 Buick Enclave Replacing The Alternator

This 2008 Buick Enclave CXL came in with the complaint that the battery would go dead while driving. The battery light was on and there was a message on the dash to service the charging system. Something else that I noticed but cannot duplicate here is that there was a steady moan from the engine area. This article is more about how to replace the alternator and less about diagnosis. The battery should be disconnected. It is located under the floor board behind the passenger front seat.

The first step in removing the old alternator is to remove the oil filler cap.

Doing so allows the top engine cover panel to be removed.

After the oil filler cap is removed the cover will lift straight up and off of the engine. Notice the two silver studs with ball tops at the rear of the engine. These match up to sockets in the cover.

The coolant overflow tank is the next part to be removed. There is a hose attached to the tank that is easier to remove before the tank is unbolted.

Now the two 10 mm headed bolts that hold the tank in place are removed.

One more bolt holding the a/c high pressure line in place. The a/c line and a power steering hose will need to be moved around slightly while working the alternator around the engine compartment.

The tank can be positioned out of the way in several different directions depending on the area of access needed at the time.

Following the a/c liquid line around to the front of the engine you will find a 10 mm nut holding the clamp down.

The belt tensioner assembly is accessed from under the vehicle. I used a 1/2″ drive breaker bar to move the tensioner and then removed the belt from the alternator.

While in the same area the bolt that holds the back idler pulley in place also needs to be removed. That bolt doubles as an attaching bolt for the alternator.

It can be accessed from the bottom or the top of the vehicle. The bolt has a 15 mm hex head.

This is a better view of the pulley, bolt and alternator as they are assembled in the vehicle.

The bolt and pulley will need to be moved to the most forward position possible in order to remove the alternator.

After the alternator is free enough for it to rotate up, the pulley and bolt should be removed. This will make moving the alternator around much easier. It is a must to remember to reinstall the pulley and bolt back into the alternator housing before securing the alternator to the engine. This pulley and bolt cannot be removed from the alternator while it is still bolted in place and by the same token it cannot be installed if the alternator is already secured to the engine.

Moving to the mounting studs and nuts that hold the bulk of the alternator to the engine. The GM service information states to remove the bolts but this vehicle uses studs instead. So after removing the two 15 mm nuts and the hose bracket from the studs, the studs themselves will need to be removed.

A 7 mm socket is needed. There are quite a few threads so it takes a lot of turning to remove the studs.

This is how it looks in the engine compartment. I will tell you that it is easier removing the studs than it was to re install them. I had to use my left hand under the front of the alternator to support it while I re installed the studs with my right hand. You may notice the alternator output stud slightly right of center in the next picture. The attaching nut has a 13 mm hex. I had already removed it and moved the cable out of the way earlier. Same goes for unplugging the alternator harness connector.

Now the trick for easy removal out of the engine compartment. Under the vehicle at the front the of the wheel well there is a phillips headed screw that needs to be removed.

There are several more along the front half of the inner fender. It is easier to work with the wheels turned to the right.

There are several push pin style plastic retainers that also need to be removed. After all of the fasteners are removed the front portion of the wheel liner will pull down and out of the wheel well.

The alternator can then be maneuvered out through the passenger wheel well opening. It may seem like a pain to take the alternator out this way but it is far easier than doing it by the factory manual. It states to drain the coolant, remove the upper radiator hose, remove the front engine mount and then the engine mount bracket before unbolting the alternator.

Hope this helps.

Britney & The Mazda MX6, Part 3 Conclusion

I had actually about forgotten about this story or at least, it has not been at the top of the list of tasks to complete. In one of my recent email conversations with Katie on our web development team, she stated that while looking through the site in preparations for a new project that she ran across these articles. She wanted to know how it turned out. I decided to take the time to write the conclusion to the story. The names used are not the real names of the people involved and I am sad to say I cannot remember the name of the aid agency that was involved in this story. I just realized it has been slightly over six years since this all happened.

To read the first two parts of this story please visit the following articles.

Britney & The Mazda MX6, Part One

Britney & The Mazda MX6, Part Two

Britney came by on Monday morning and said she was sorry for the confusion and did not know exactly what happened. I told her that I had a pretty good idea what was going on and that I would need to speak with her contact at the aid agency that had been helping her. She stated that she would get her on the phone. I replied that I was too busy to talk at that moment and that I would need to call the agency as soon as I was free. To my surprise she actually gave me the phone number and the name of the contact person at the agency, Jennifer. I looked the number up on the internet and found it indeed belonged to a legitimate organization. I had expected to call one of Britney’s friends that would be posing as “Jennifer”.

About mid morning when the shop settled down I called Jennifer and asked if she knew Britney and the situation with the Mazda. She stated that they had been helping her get her life back together since her child had passed away (a very sad bit of truth in this whole story). She was aware that there was a broken down Mazda that Britney needed to get running for a new job and that they would be paying for the repairs. For a split second I debated whether or not to inform Jennifer of Britney’s deceptions as she seemed very caring and deeply involved in Britney’s plight. Whether it is a blessing or a curse I have always been compelled to do the correct thing in life and I told her the whole sorted story as I knew it. I presented it as kindly as I could. She was not surprised and informed me that she had personally taken an interest in Britney and was well aware of her tendencies to manipulate people and situations to her own selfish ends. It was among many things she had been trying to help her with. She further stated that she would be paying the bill on the car and that she would make Britney bring the check to me and apologize in person for the whole situation. It did not seem right to me for Jennifer and the aid agency to do this for Britney since in my opinion Britney had been scamming them for quite a while. What the heck, I know cars not people.

About an hour and a half later Britney’s friends from the weekend arrived at the shop. I explained the situation to them and that as far as I knew Britney would be arriving shortly with the payment for the repair. They stated that was okay but Britney no longer owns the Mazda. I asked for proof of that statement and they opened a folder and presented a nice crisp Vehicle Title. They also pulled out a driver’s license to prove their identification. I asked how they got the title and they explained that Britney had signed the bill of sale on the old title when the $100 deposit was given for the Mazda. They did not want to lose their $100 so when they had the chance, they lifted the title from Britney without her knowing it and transferred the title, first thing Monday morning. I came right out and asked if they intended to still pay her for the car or if they were simply going to “steal” it. They said no they had the money and fully intended to pay the balance for the car. I asked to see the money and they produced it. I told them I had to call Jennifer at the aid agency to see how this could all be worked out. Between the parking lot and the office the idea hit me. How about Britney’s friends paying me for the repair work and paying the aid agency for the balance on the transaction. From there Jennifer could then do what she wanted to help Britney and Britney would be taught the lesson that maybe she is not quite as smart and crafty as she thinks she is. To my surprise Jennifer agreed with my scenario and we put the plan in action.

Back to the parking lot to talk with Britney’s friends! They agreed. I brought them into the office and called Jennifer back. She gave them directions and off they went. Another hour went by and my phone rang. It was Jennifer on the other end and she told me that the agency had been paid the balance of the transaction between Britney and her friends and she felt that I was free to allow them to pick the Mazda after they paid me my bill. Thirty minutes later they were back at my shop, paid the bill and were off.

Before they left we talked over the situation and all agreed that it worked out the best for everyone except Britney. We also agreed that she really needed a dose of her own medicine which we all collectively had given her.

Oh well, back to work with a good story to tell to others. Not so quick, I am working right along, look up and there is Britney walking into my shop. Not again, I thought this was over. Is she alone? Where is the phone? These were just a few of the things that ran through my mind. From a fair distance she ask if she could speak with me. I knew she was a good actress but she did seem genuine at the moment. Right or wrong, I decided decided to talk with her. She told me that Jennifer had explained everything to her and she realized that she was wrong in her actions and apologized to me. She also stated that she was going to do the same with her friends. I told her that I truly hoped that she could get her life back together but in the meantime not to expect anyone to trust her until she worked hard enough to earn it.

After she left, I called Jennifer to let her know that Britney had come by, took ownership of the deceit and apologized. She stated that was the first step in the agreement between Britney and Jennifer in order for Britney to have any possibility of future help. Regular counseling was the second step.

As far as I know I have never heard back from any of the parties involved. Quite honestly if they walked in my shop tomorrow I doubt that I would recognize any of them.

A few lessons learned form this experience:

I do not allow older cars to come into my shop if I do not first have a working relationship with the owner. More than three days of involvement, spread over nearly two months, for two hours of billable work is just not worth the trouble.

If I hear a long story about a customer’s plight before I even get to see the car, I’m out.

By comparison vehicles are much easier to fix than people.

I am happy there are organizations out there that work on fixing people.

You know someday I need to write down my list of rules, do’s and don’ts for me and my shop. After twenty five years of owning a shop and another fifteen working with the motoring public there are quite a few.