2003 Chevrolet Silverado, Replacing a DRL Socket

The previous post on replacing the daytime running light sockets on a 2003 Chevrolet Silverado has detail about how to get to the socket but did not have much about how to splice in the new socket. The upper set of contacts in the picture below are burnt and are the reason for the socket replacement. Double click on the picture for a better view.

Unwrap the tape at the end of the split loom.

Open the seam on the split loom and pull the wires out. Cut and splice one wire at a time. Although the replacement wires are all white, order is important.

Stagger the splice joints.

Use a heat source and shrink the tubing in place.

Pull the split loom back over the wiring and finish with tape. To order this socket please click here.

1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass, Gas Gauge Below Empty

This 1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass came in with the complaint that the gas or fuel gauge is stuck below empty. With the key off the gauge reads as seen below.

With the key on the gauge needle rises but is stuck below the peg as shown below. This condition is caused by several factors. One, a poor design, in that there is not a peg or needle stop at the upper end of the gauge. Two, the key was on while a battery cable was being removed or installed. Three, the engine was being cranked with a very low battery charge condition. Both situations, along with the design flaw, will cause the gauge to go past full and rotate all the way around. Getting trapped below the peg.

It is not terribly difficult to repair this condition. Remove the two screws in the instrument cluster trim panel.

Pull the trim panel away from the dash and unplug the wiring as shown below.

Finish pulling the trim panel loose, across to the passenger side of the dash.

Disconnect the hazard switch.

Remove the screws that hold the instrument cluster to the dash.

Rotate the cluster as shown below. Pull the cluster partially out, until the wires can be disconnected. Then remove the cluster from the vehicle.

Release the clips that hold the front bezel and lens, then pull it off of the cluster body.

Simply rotate the needle counter clockwise until it is in it’s proper position above the stop peg.

Reinstall the lens assembly and install the cluster into the dash. Be careful not to let the upper right side of the cluster drop too far below level, as the needles will rotate and may go past center and be stuck again.

After securing the cluster in the dash, switch the ignition on and verify proper gauge function. The finish installing the rest of the trim pieces.

2003 Buick Regal, P0128

This 2003 Buick Regal came in with a service engine soon light on and a code P0128 stored. The code means that the engine coolant temperature is below the thermostat regulating temperature. In other words the thermostat is sticking open or opening to soon to satisfy the computer. Thankfully this car has the 3.8 liter engine. The thermostat is very easy to change compared to the other engines. I started by removing the engine trim cover. With that removed the thermostat housing is easy to see.

I had already drained the coolant level down some. Then I removed the two bolts that held the water outlet (thermostat) housing in place.

I pulled the housing back to expose the thermostat. Popped the old one out and installed a new one along with a new seal.

I refilled the coolant system with the bleed screw in the water outlet (thermostat) housing cracked open. I started the engine and continued to open and close the bleed screw at different intervals, so that I could purge all of the air from the system. I checked the coolant level in the overflow reservoir, after the engine came up to temperature and rinsed off the coolant residue.

2002 Oldsmobile Alero, No Run Condition

This 2002 Olds Alero came in with a crank but no run condition. I suspected anti theft problem but I changed my mind after no anti theft related codes were stored. In fact the only engine code that was stored was for an a/c clutch relay circuit problem. So I went about the normal checks for fuel and spark. Spark was present, fuel pressure was present but fuel pulse was not just like an anti theft problem.

I checked for power at the injectors and it was present. I decided to see if I could fire the injectors with may scan tool (Tech 2) and I could. I went ahead and cycled each injector while I was there and each one was okay. I tried starting the engine after firing the injectors and the engine ran fine! I shut it off and tried again, the no run condition was back.

What the heck? After doing some research I found one reference to a no run condition related to an a/c fuse being blown. No, it couldn’t be? Yes , it was! I replaced the fuse and the engine cranked and ran fine. I turned the a/c on and the fuse blew after about 10 minutes. The compressor clutch has a short in it.

A lesson to all of us, do not over look the simple, obvious things even if they do not seem to be related. Turns out this fuse also supplies power to one leg of the BCM and was inducing an anti theft scenario with no anti theft code. I should mention that as soon as the fuse was replaced an anti theft code popped up.

2004 GMC Envoy, Low Beam Headlight Inop

This 2004 GMC Envoy came in with the passenger side low beam not working. This repair applies generally to Envoys, Bravadas and Trailblazers, with only slight differences in the headlight assembly removal. Some require removing the grill assembly. This one is pretty simple though. Pull the retainers straight up. You can use just you fingers. If you decide to use a screw driver for leverage, be careful not to break anything.

Pull the second retainer up.

With the retaining bars released the headlight assembly can be gently wiggled out to expose the wiring. The light sockets twist and rotate out. The larger socket has a lever lock that has to be depressed before removal.

There is another harness connector at the lower inside edge that has to be removed.

With the assembly out of the vehicle , I removed the rubber cup covering the light bulb and wiring. Looks a little toasty.

Rotate the bulb counter clockwise and remove.

This is the replacement harness connector that I like to use. It is a high quality German connector that has been modified to fit this application. To order this low beam repair harness please click here. If you need a high beam repair harness please click here.

A couple of quick splices.

Splices done with heat shrink tubing in place.

Connect the harness to the bulb. Do not touch the glass on the bulb. The bulb will blow after installation if any oils from you hand attaches to the glass. The oil causes uneven heating of the glass and it will shatter and let the inert gas out and then the element will burn out.

Using the harness connector as a handle insert the bulb back into the headlight assembly and twist into place. Install the rubber cover and install in the vehicle. It’s that simple.

2002 Pontiac Grand Prix, Changing The Low Coolant Sensor

This 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix came in with a faulty coolant level sensor. The radiator was full of coolant, the light was on and it would go off when the sensor is disconnected. The sensor is in a pretty difficult place to access for replacement but there is a trick. The sensor is the grey cube located behind the transmission cooler line in the picture below.

The trick is to remove the passenger side headlight assembly. There are a couple of 10 mm headed bolts that need to be removed. The grey bolt heads can be seen at either side of the headlight assembly as seen in the picture below. There is also a Phillips headed screw that has to be removed in order to take the park/turn signal light assembly out first.

With the bolts removed the headlight assembly can be removed. It takes just a little gentle rocking and twisting to get it pulled from the body.

Now the sensor can be easily accessed through the body opening.

There is a wire retaining clip that needs to be removed. Then the old sensor can be twisted and pulled from the radiator. The new sensor simply pushes in until the clip snaps into place. I used a mirror to see make sure the new sensor is fully seated in the radiator.

Installed the head light assembly and then the park/turn signal light assembly.

A good look at the new and old sensors along with the retaining clip.

2001 Dodge Stratus, No Run Condition

This 2001 Dodge Stratus came in with the complaint that sometimes it just does not run. The car had recently been purchased from a used car lot and since buying it the new owner had installed two fuel pumps. It ran for about a week after the first one was installed. When the fuel pump stopped working the second time, they replaced it again. This time it did not “fix it”. The car was towed back to the used car lot where it started up. They drove it to the shop and it ran for several days. Once it stopped running, I did a quick check for spark and fuel pulse. Both were present. There was no fuel pressure, so I jumped the fuel pump relay and still no fuel pressure. After consulting a wiring diagram I found that the ground for the fuel pump was located below the latch assembly inside the trunk. I pulled the liner back and this is what I found.

A better view.

That connection had been loose for quite a while as evidenced by the rust and discoloration on the screw.

I repaired the wiring, glass beaded the screw, wire brushed the body ground point and reattached all wiring. Before putting the trunk liner back in place, I sprayed some paint on the entire connection to help seal it.

The thing that amazed me was this. Okay the ground had been bad for a while and most likely was the reason for the previous owner getting rid of the car, but the large ground cable was installed by someone adding an amp to the radio. Why, when the bad ground was seen did they not fix this? The new owner’s boyfriend installed the amplifier ground, had the oxidized bolt in his hand and had to have seen that the ring terminal was broken. Why oh why did he not fix this? To make matters worse he has been a total jerk through the repair process and did not inform any one of his actions.

On a slightly different note, does any one know the meaning of this error message. I have never seen it before. I cannot enter OE communications with my scan tool but it will communicate with the OBD2 software.

The Sparky Character Origins

Believe it or not this is the original character that led to the creation of Sparky’s Answers. I had been told that I should start writing down or documenting the repairs that I do on a regular basis but it was not until Brad, my son in law came up with the figure you see below, that  is when I became inspired to actually do this site.

We have since played around a little bit and have come up with a few enhancements. A larger terminal, heat shrink tubing for a body and wire strand hands and fingers.

The latest attempt is an oversized bulb, a two wire socket, some heat shrink tubing and electrical tape.

The evolution of Sparky to date. The plan is to continue to develop the character and place Sparky on the site as well as printed materials. Which do you like? Would you like to submit an idea or final image? If so please send it to info@the-electric-connection.com

1999 Jeep Cherokee, Ignition Switch Will Not Turn Off

This 1999 Jeep Cherokee came in with the complaint that the key would not turn off. I pulled it in the shop and pulled the fuel pump relay from the under hood fuse box so the engine would die.

DSC02919

The customer had already made a mess of the steering column covers so I actually had to put it back together to show how easy it is to remove the lock cylinder on this vehicle. The key has to be on, in order to depress the retaining pin through the steering column lower cover as shown below.

A better picture of the pin or button that has to be depressed with the key on. Much harder to do if the lock cylinder gets stuck in the off position.

Once the pin is depressed the lock cylinder will pull out of the steering column housing. Slide a new on and it is done.

This customer opted for a slightly less expensive preassembled lock cylinder. I prefer the ones that come as a kit. That way it can be set up for the original key.

2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer, Blower Inop

This 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer came in with the complaint that the blower did not work at any speed. This repair applies to 2002 -2009 Chevrolet Trailblazers and GMC Envoys,2002-2004 Oldsmobile Bravada, 2004-2007 Buick Rainier, 2002-2008 Isuzu Ascender. The parts are the same but positions may vary for 2004 and 2005 Chevrolet SSR. All with manual A/C controls.

This Trailblazer has dual zone, manual a/c controls as seen in the picture below.

Since this is a very common problem I went straight to the blower resistor assembly. It is located under the passenger side of the dash. To access it the lower hush panel has to be removed. Two 7 mm headed screws are used to attach the panel to the bottom of the dash.

Once it is down there are some wiring connectors that have to be taken loose along with the satellite radio module. Not all vehicles will have this module.

With all of that out of the way, I could now see the resistor and the burnt harness connector attached to it.

A little different view. The red wire is visibly damaged.

I unbolted the resistor assembly by removing the two 5.5 mm headed screws.

I had to use a screwdriver to pry the connector loose from the resistor assembly.

The damaged connector.

As usual the red and black wires were the main wires affected. The needed parts are available at www.The-Electric-Connection.com . Please click here to order.

Now, it was time to splice one wire at a time. I started with the red wire and made sure I applied the heat shrink tubing as this wire has power on it all of the time. I did not want to blow the fuse or remove it either.

Stagger the joints.

Reassemble and this one is done.

Testing is as follows. Disconnect the 7 wire harness connector and inspect. If there is any sign of heat damage replace both parts per above instructions. If there is no sign of heat damage then check the following. With the 7 wire harness disconnected check for power on the red wire. It should have 12 volts at all times and it gets it’s power from the 40 amp blower fuse in the under hood fuse box. Next with the key on check for 12 volt power to each of the following wires as you move the blower speed switch from low to high. Yellow / low, tan / med 1, lt blue / med 2, purple / med 3 and orange / high. Remember, this test is done with the key on and the seven wire harness disconnected. Other than the red wire having power at all times, only one wire at a time will have power on it, during a proper test. If there is no power to any of these wires during the test , check the fuse in the driver’s interior fuse box. If only some of these signals are missing, you will need to inspect the blower speed switch and related wiring. Also you should do a drag test on the terminals to check the spring tension. Please click here for more instructions.

  • Terminal “A” Tan = Speed 2, power through blower switch from HVAC fuse
  • Terminal “B” Yellow = Speed 1, power through blower switch from HVAC fuse
  • Terminal “C” Purple = Speed 4, power through blower switch from HVAC fuse
  • Terminal “D” Lt Blue = Speed 3, power through blower switch from HVAC fuse
  • Terminal “E” Black = Blower system, ground at all times
  • Terminal “F” Orange = Speed 5, power through blower switch from HVAC fuse
  • Terminal “G” Red = Speed 5, Constant power from BLWR fuse under hood

If all of the tests above are okay and you want to go a step further, place a test light or voltmeter in the wires going to the blower motor. If the light comes on or you have a 12 volt reading, the resistor and wiring are okay and the blower motor is faulty. This can also sometimes be confirmed by bumping the blower motor with the switches on. If the motor starts after bumping the motor is faulty. One can also remove the blower motor and apply 12 volts (power and ground) directly to the motor. Be careful though the motor will tend to jump and roll all over the place. Hold it firmly and be sure you are clear of the impeller as it could hurt you pretty easily.

One other note. If you have an amperage gauge, test the blower amperage draw while it is mounted in the blower case. Turn on surge amperage could go up to about 28 amps. Amperage draw at high blower should be in the 18 to 24 amp range. The lower the better. Restricted cabin air filters (if present) and dirty evaporator cores will cause a blower motor to draw more current while reducing air flow volume. These two conditions combined will significantly reduce the life of any blower resistor.