2003 Chevrolet Impala-Ignition Switch Replaced-Need Help

ADylan: 2003 Chevy Impala, no crank, no start after replacing the key cylinder, it was starting fine until the key cylinder went bad.

Sparky: The lock cylinder assembly has an anti theft sensor built into it and now that you have replaced the lock cylinder assembly it needs to relearn the new sensor value. In most instances a manual relearn is possible but in some cases a software command is needed.

The manual procedure is as follows.

Start with a fully charged battery and connect a battery charger if needed to maintain battery voltage. The ignition will be on for at least 10 minutes but may be on for an hour. If that battery voltage falls too low the procedure will not work and will have to be restarted.

Try to crank the engine and leave the key in the run position. The theft or security light should be on or flashing. At about the ten minute mark the light will either go out or stop flashing. Turn the ignition off for 10 seconds then try to restart the engine. This process may need to be repeated for up to four times before the engine will actually fire up and run. If the engine does not run do not turn the ignition off. Keep it on until the security light goes off or stops flashing ans keep repeating the process.

ADylan: It took a while and was very worried. It took all four tries but it finally started. Thanks

2006 Chevrolet Equinox-Lighting Problems

CWood: When the DRL are on (daytime with switch in AUTO position) and the brake pedal is pressed, dash lights dim and front marker lights(above the headlights) come on. When the switch is in any other position, or when full lighting(night time with switch in AUTO) is active, pressing the brake pedal turns all rear lights off. Where should I start?

Sparky: The lighting problem should either be damaged rear stoplight sockets/bulbs or poor grounds to the stoplight sockets. I would start with a visual inspection of those bulbs and sockets.

CWood: Could it be the light sensor itself? When I cover it with something, it doesn’t automatically turn the lights on. I can tap it and the full lighting comes on and the brake lights brighten, but only slightly.

Sparky: The ambient light sensor technically reacts to changes in light pretty quick. It however sends the signal to the BCM and it takes it’s dear sweet time to turn the lights on or off. It can take anywhere from 30 seconds to 2 minutes to react.

Refresh me on the light situation. Do we still have all rear lights going out at night when the brake pedal is depressed or has it changed any?

CWood: Currently, when the DRL is activated in AUTO mode, marker lights and all gauges and knobs illuminate (as they would when the headlights are turned on at night) when the pedal is pressed.(see photos in next reply)
Brake lights and turn signals work properly.
When full lighting (night time) is active, brake lights are barely discernible from running lights.

Sparky: As I understand your problem depressing the brake pedal during the day turns on the marker/parking lights along with the dash lights. At night with the headlights on you barely notice a difference when you depress the brake pedal.

Start your diagnosis by removing one stoplight bulb at a time and recheck the system. One of the bulbs is back feeding the parking/marker and dash lights. If the condition continues even with both bulbs removed locate the trailer light adapter in the left rear storage compartment and disconnect it. Let me know which action if any corrects the feed back problem. I never did receive the reply with photos.

CWood: Well, I’ve checked all the tail lights including the 3rd brake light. I looked for the connection in the side storage area, and found that someone hardwired the trailer connection into the harness. Going out now to figure out what they’ve done. It will never pull a trailer again, so I’m removing the 4 prong connector and wires.

CWood: Trailer wiring removed, all lighting works correctly! Thank Y’all So Much!!!!

 

2006 Chevrolet Equinox-Blend Door Broken

CWood: The heat blend door actuator is traveling too far and broke the spline end off the door. I have replaced the door and the actuator, but the new actuator travels the same distance. Would this be a problem with the position control potentiometer itself, or something else?

Sparky: I would start with recalibrating the new actuator. The following is from GM service information. It does not state whether to begin with the key on or off. I would try it first with the key off and see if it responds.

Important:  Any time an actuator or the HVAC control module is replaced, the HVAC control module must be calibrated to ensure proper air distribution.

  1. Calibrate the actuators by simultaneously pushing the A/C and RECIRC buttons on the HVAC control module three times each, within two seconds of initial push.
    • The A/C and RECIRC button LED’s will flash while this calibration is taking place.
    • The calibration will take anywhere between 10 to 30 seconds depending on battery voltage.
    • The LEDs will quit flashing when the calibration is complete.
  2. Cycle the ignition and verify proper operation.

CWood: Thanks Sparky!! I’ll let you know how it goes!

CWood: The a/c control reset worked perfectly!!

2002 Chevrolet Suburban-Mode Actuator Cycles Between Vent & Defrost

SDixon: I had an issue with my vehicle back in August. I replaced the battery, upon new battery being installed the delivery mode actuator would cycle between defrost and vent every few seconds. I was going on vacation so had a local mechanic look at it. He informed me that the actuator was bad. I had him replace it. Once I got it back it did not fully actuate to floor or defrost, no matter what setting it was on it was blowing more out the vents than it was on the setting it was supposed to blow out of. I took the actuator out and lined everything back up and tried to calibrate but now it is cycling between defrost and vent again.

Sparky: At this point my suspicion would be that the actuator may not have been changed for whatever reason and you merely realigned the original faulty actuator. Can you get a clear picture of the actuator and upload it here?

Going past that do you have a voltmeter and the ability to use it for further testing?

SDixon: Not sure how much of the actuator you want to see. Here is one picture please let me know if you need something else or a different view. I do have a voltmeter and have a little ability with it. I unplugged the actuator last night when it cycled to defrost as we had frost overnight and I was needing the defroster.

 

15-73952 Mode Actuator – Genuine ACDelco replacement part with TMI label – 52473356 – Courtesy SDixon

Sparky: That actuator has been replaced and looks like it is what currently comes in an ACDelco box, part number 15-73952.

  1. Testing at the mode actuator, key on, back probing with a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM).
  2. There should 12 volts on the Brown wire.
  3. There should  be a good ground on the Black wire.
  4. There should be 5 volts on the Gray wire.
  5. The voltage on the Red wire should cycle between 0.1 and 4.9v depending on where the mode actuator is.
  6. The White wire should be at 2.5 volts when the actuator is commanded to the rest position. There will be a reading of 0 volts to command movement in one direction and a 5 volt signal to command movement in the opposite direction.

If the readings are off the harness connectors at the far right side of the dash should be check and or cleaned. Also GM has a TSB about an in line harness connector that may be the cause of your problem but I would need to know if you system has manual or auto controls before supplying that information.

Also if you do not get the full range of travel voltage on the Red wire, check to see if the slot in the shaft fully travels between the two hash marks on the actuator case. If it does not I would suspect that the actuator still may not be correctly installed.

SDixon: I will check these and get back to you. I’m sure this is kind of a stupid question but could you tell me the difference between manual or auto controls?

Sparky:

The auto system will have the word auto next to the two outer knobs. The center knob will adjust between 60 to 85 degrees.

Automatic Control Head Assembly – ACDelco.com

On the manual system the center temperature knob just has the red and blue arches above the knob.

 

Manual Control Head Assembly – Dorman.com

SDixon: Thank you. Mine is the auto system.

Sparky:

I have still been looking into your problem. In order to perform a recalibration on your 2002 Suburban with auto a/c controls you will need to either disconnect the battery or remove the Radio fuse from the underhood fuse box. Here is the procedure from GM service information.

    1. Turn OFF the ignition.
    2. Remove the battery positive voltage circuit fuse of the HVAC Control Module.

Important:  The scan tool must be disconnected from the vehicle to properly perform the calibration procedure. If a scan tool is connected before this procedure is completed, then new calibration values will not be stored.

Important:  Failure to wait 60 seconds will not allow the HVAC control module sufficient time to clear the old calibration values.

  1. Wait 60 seconds.
  2. Install the fuse.
  3. Turn ON the ignition.
  4. Wait 60 seconds before installing a scan tool.

I would modify this slightly by waiting 60 seconds and possibly up to 3 minutes before turning the ignition off for at least 10 seconds (no more than 30 seconds) then turning the ignition back on to check the results.

Also if you have anything connected to the vehicle that has a battery or memory circuit,  treat it as a scan tool as far as disconnecting it so it will not interfere with the process.

SDixon: Thank you.
Should the controls be set on anything specific? Can you also tell me the best method to determine whether the actuator is installed correctly?

Sparky: GM does not mention a need to preset the controls to a particular position. The ways to tell are; compare to a known good vehicle, visual inspection to check for binding during travel, look at the original actuator to see which slots were used (probably not possible in your case) and trial & error fitting.

SDixon: Thank you so much for the assistance. All voltage checked out so I pulled the actuator and cog, reinstalled both, and recalibrated. Everything works great now!

Thanks again!!!

2004 GMC Yukon – No Heat

DDaley: I have a 2004 GMC Yukon SLT with 5.3L V8. I’m having an HVAC problem. The vehicle has dual climate controls. When in AC mode occasionally it will start blasting out hot air and the only way to fix is to shut off engine for a little while and it resolves. Ok, so now that winter is here and I need heat it starts up and blasts cold and sometimes kicks over to heat and sometimes not. I kinda wonder if the blend door actuator needs recalibrated??? If so can you instruct me on where to get that procedure. If its not that system can you advise on what to do?

Sparky: You can try a recalibration but more than likely you have a problem with the actuator itself. I am assuming that the driver’s side is acting up and the passenger side is okay?

Here is a link to an article I did on actuator recalibration.

DDaley: No, neither side was blowing any heat. I checked the coolant level in the vehicle and it was low so I added coolant up to normal and heat then started working so it probably was to low to get into the heater core, so that helped. BUT NOW the fan can be running at high speed and heated air either does’nt come out any of the opening or it comes out randomly (not where its set for).
It sometimes comes out defrost only or panel only or floor only or sometimes not at all even with fan running and temp set for heat. The heated air from blower just doesn’t seem to come out the selected opening???? Any ideas???

Sparky: I recently had this same conversation with another reader. They had to top off the coolant system several times (with driving cycles in between fills). That too may clear up your lack of heat problem. Installing a new mode actuator will likely cure the vent control problem. Did you try a recalibration of the system?

DDaley: I did recalibrate the system as per your article. Thank you. What is a mode actuator? I believe you are talking about the blend door actuator. Is that correct? If so is there just one on the passenger side or are there two (driver and passenger side)?

Sparky: There are a total of four in the front HVAC system.

Mode actuator is located on the left end of the HVAC case assembly just above the gas pedal area. It is responsible for where the air comes out of the dash.

The Driver’s temperature door actuator is located under the passenger side of the dash above the transmission hump in the floor pan.

The Passenger side temperature door actuator is located on the passenger side of the vehicle on top of the HVAC case assembly. Generally to the right of the radio and about a foot back.

The air inlet actuator is located behind and above the glove box area.

DDaley: OK cool, so you believe I need to replace the 1st one (mode actuator) on the above list to resolve the random air movement I described. Correct? If so, do you have a link or something that describes that process. Thanks for your help.

Sparky: Here is link on replacement instructions. 

2005 Chevrolet Tahoe – Front & Rear Heat & Air Not Working Correctly

RFulton: Need help with front and rear air for my 2005 Tahoe with dual zone automatic HVAC because it was blowing cold on driver side when temp was turned up all the way. After trying to recalibrate it finally worked, however when you change anything on diver side it gets cooler then heats back up, passenger side stays like it should. Also my rear air blows cold air only, I have replaced both of those actuators too, not sure how to calibrate the rear and a little worried that trying to calibrate rear may screw up what I have up front. It took at least a dozen times to get the front to get hot air on driver side.

Sparky: If you have manual controls for the rear HVAC system there is no recalibration procedure. If you have auto controls for the rear there is not a clear procedure but you could do a standard recalibration procedure but you would need to remove the ECC fuse from the interior fuse box to start the recalibration. This will not affect the front system.

On the front system problem it sounds like the driver’s temperature door actuator is failing. I would recommend replacing it if it gives anymore problems. A long shot temporary repair would be to remove that actuator and disassemble it. Look to see if it has brass contacts under the large gear. If it does wipe the grease off of the contacts and off of the mating surfaces on the circuit board. Some of the actuators have a potentiometer instead of the visible contacts under the large gear and not much can be done to improve the performance of those.

RFulton: The temp door actuator was brand new when I put it in today, could it be something else possibly? I really don’t want to tear into that dash again.

Sparky: Which actuator did you replace and what was the part number? The driver’s temperature door actuator is located under the passenger side of the dash above the transmission hump in the floorboard.

RFulton: I checked the front, and passenger side only puts out hot air. While driver side no matter what temperature setting, seems to cycle between cold and hot about 10 seconds each.
Man I just thought that the old vacuum operated switches were a pain now I see they were a piece of cake compared to these electronic actuators.

Sparky: There are pluses and minuses to both types of systems. The electronic systems have made extremely good automatic climate controls possible so I am more in favor of the newer style. I like setting the temperature and letting the system do it’s job.

RFulton: Any ideas of why driver side cycles 10 seconds between hot and cold, yet passenger side stays hot. Blend door actuator and temperature door actuator were replaced at same time yesterday. When it cycles cold it kicks on compressor even when it is not in defrost or the a/c button activated?

Sparky: Try disconnecting and reconnecting the harnesses at the passenger end of the dash under the trim panel at the door jamb. Treat it like a recalibration has been initiated when you turn the ignition back on.

Beyond that there is some testing that can be done with a voltmeter if you have one. It would be much better if you had the use of a scan tool that can communicate with the HVAC system.

RFulton: I replaced the temp actuator( behind passenger left dash vent) and the blend door actuator (about 4″ above the right side of transmission hump). I get hot air from passenger but not driver side. After pulling fuses HVAC ECAS and the two at drivers side of dash I can see the temp door going from about 2:00 to about 10:00 and back to 2:00 where it stays.

Sparky: What was the part number of the installed part at the right side above the transmission hump?

RFulton: I believe it was a Dorman 604-111.

Sparky: The correct Dorman part number for the driver’s temperature door actuator (the one just above the transmission hump on the passenger side)  would be 604-106, the ACDelco part number is 15-72971.

RFulton: What is the correct part for the blend door? I was under the assumption that the lower one was blend door actuator and the upper one was temperature door actuator.
The guys at Oreilly auto parts said they were the same and sent me home with two of the 604-111

Sparky: Here is the deal. I only use ACDelco parts on those repairs and I know that on your truck with auto controls that the 15-72971 is the correct actuator for the driver’s temperature door actuator, passenger side temperature door actuator and the air inlet actuator.  Going to Dorman’s website and cross referencing the 15-72971 number brings up the Dorman 604-106.

Also early on GM and ACDelco had the wrong part numbers listed for those actuator in their cataloging. The aftermarket copied that information and sometimes never got the corrected info.

RFulton: Wow, finally got correct actuators and the right parts make all the difference in the world, thank you so much.

I figured it out too late but instead of turning the switch off for the dome lights when doors are opened I disconnected the battery to do all the work. So now I have nothing but cold air in rear hvac, would you mind telling me the best way to recalibrate the rear hvac i.e. Which fuses to pull and correct order and times of procedure?

Sparky: If you have manual controls for the rear HVAC system there is no recalibration procedure. If you have auto controls (which you do) for the rear there is not a clear procedure but you could do a standard recalibration procedure but you would need to remove the ECC fuse from the interior fuse box to start the recalibration. This will not affect the front system.

RFulton: Are there specific settings for the front and rear controls when you recalibrate rear auto air? Also how long should ECC fuse stay out?

Sparky: No special settings needed. Leave the fuse out for one full minute. Reinstall fuse, turn ignition on for one minute, do not touch anything, turn ignition off for at least 10 seconds but no more than thirty. Start the engine and check the system.

RFulton: Thank you, the rear HVAC now will allow to adjust temperature.

2005 Subaru Outback-Headlight Erratic-Inoperative

This 2005 Subaru Outback came in with the complaint that the passenger side low beam headlight worked sometimes and sometimes not. The customer stated that the bulb and harness had both been replaced a year or so ago. Accessing the bulb requires removing the air intake duct work. It is held in place by a couple of plastic retainers. The screw in the middle has to be turned so that the screw will pop up.

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Sometimes it helps to hold the outer edge of the retainer so that it will not turn when loosening the inner screw.

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The screw does not have to come all of the way out. Just up far enough for the retainer to pull loose of the vehicle.

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The duct work has to be lifted and rolled at the same time for it to come out of the air filter housing.

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The white bulb cover can now be accessed for removal. It twists to the left and then pulls out of the lamp assembly.

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The main problem with this light is the poor terminal splice connection as evidenced by the dark discoloration of the blue plastic. The terminal and plastic have been overheated due to a poor crimp on a cheap splice connector.

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I installed quality spicing terminals. Non insulated and with no split seam

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Heat shrink tubing with a meltable sealing liner.

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A new bulb, new connector, quality splice and this one is ready to go back together.

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2009 Chevrolet Colorado-Blower Inoperative-Ground Missing at Blower

John M: I have a problem with the blower motor in my 2009 Colorado. Similar to what you show for a 2008, but need more info. I have power all the way in the brown wire to the motor and it didn’t work. I removed the motor and bench tested with jumpers to a battery and motor works just fine? I am the second owner and it looks like this motor has been replaced once before I got it as there is not a gm part number on it anywhere. It appears that there may have been an issue with one wire in the connector behind the kick panel that someone has repaired. I have also cleaned up all electrical ground locations. The two wire connector to the motor… is the brown wire a hot one and is the orange colored one a ground?

Sparky:

The orange wire does supply ground to the blower motor. It is a switched ground. The ground originates at the G106 location attached to the inner fender panel and behind the air cleaner assembly. It is a black wire at this point. From there it goes to the blower switch in the HVAC control head. It is located at terminal “B” of the blower switch connector.  It leaves the switch at terminal position “E” (orange wire)  goes through the X203 in line harness connector (above the blower case and near the recirculation grill intake). From there it goes to the blower resistor and finally to the blower motor. If the blower motor does not work on any speed including high the problem most likely is at the G106 location.  The secondary location would be at the X203 connector. Lastly terminal “B” of the X2 blower switch harness located at the rear of the HVAC control head.

I recommend checking the ground at the G106 location first. If it is good return to the blower motor and check the voltage on the orange wire at the blower motor two wire connector with the ignition on and the blower switch set to high. If voltage is present work your way up to the X203 in line harness connector and check the voltage on the orange wire on either side of the connector. If no problem is found there continue on to the blower switch.

G106 location below.

John M: The one behind the air cleaner I have relocated for easier access and mounted all the wires with ring terminals to a ground block that I added there. I have also noted the orange wire that is at the motor plug and at the harness plug heading back to the plug at the kick panel does not appear to be the same or…. is it maybe isn’t where it should be? It is the one I think has been tampered with….the plug at the kick panel, do you know what position that wire would be in the plug? The one that has been tampered would be thus…with the connector mounted to the kick panel, the wire that is closet to the rear and the row closet to the drivers side…is the one that has been tampered with on the kick panel connector. Is that the position the orange wire should be in there? Because that is where a funny looking very small silver not copper wire is. It is not solid but very few stands and wrapped in tape no insulation.

Sparky: The orange wire at the blower motor runs between the blower motor and the blower switch with a tee that connects to the blower resistor. It does not go through the connector behind the right kick panel. The black ground wire that attaches to the G106 location likely does go through that connector.

The “silver” wire may be  a factory shielding wire lead but I would need you to upload a picture of it so I could tell for sure.

Testing is much easier than disassembly and general inspection. Also if you start moving things around without testing the problem could temporarily go away and make repairing more difficult.

John M: When you refer to terminal B  at the HVAC control head… are you referring to behind the switches on the center portion of the dash? Should I remove them to check regardless? I’m this far into it now, might as well eliminate as many possibilities as I am capable of …

I am still unsure of where Terminal ‘B’ at the X2 location is. Do I need to remove the switch controls in the dash to see it?

Sparky: Yes

John M: OK, so I am at the switch and there is a wire in the “B” slot in the plug into the switch…. is that the ground wire you refer to that comes from the inner fender behind the air cleaner? I get 12.6 volts testing the brown motor wire when I ground the test device to the vehicle. If I touch that wire in the B socket should I get 12.6 volts? Because right now I get nothing….if I ground to all four wires at the firewall by the air cleaner, I get 12.6 volts with each of them individually…could this then possibly mean the wire from here to the switch has been compromised and needs replaced?

Sorry typo…I mean 14.6…the ground wire to the switch is good . I unplugged it and probed the ground to check if it was okay… the brown wire at the motor read 14.6 again when hooked to the B slot in the plug…when I plug it in there is nothing coming into the other wires nor is there any sign or reading at the resistor…the harness wires leaving the switch going to the resistor…show nothing. Would this mean the switch is not working at all? It appears that it should be replaceable? Should I replace it to try that?

Sparky: If the black wire at terminal “B” shows a ground unplugged and or from the backside while plugged in, then it is very likely that there is a terminal mating problem for that terminal and it’s mating terminal at the blower switch.

John M: I found the problem…everything was good…except the plug in at the switch…the B POSITION WAS NOT GROUNDING THE SWITCH WHEN PLUGGED IN! I found this by wiggling the plug on the switch and it would suddenly work then stop. I then removed the plug and diligently with a fine pick…closed the gap on the B position connector so that it firmly gripped the prong on the plug. It is now working better than ever. I’m guessing that between this end of the ground wire and the end in the fender behind the air cleaner… both were a problem. Needless to say it’s solved! One last query… is it advisable to replace the resistor even though it appears fine… in the name of preventive maintenance and it happening at an inopportune time? Or is it truly if it ain’t broke don’t fix it issue?

Sparky: Glad you found the problem. Keep in mind that at some point you will want to replace the switch and the harness connector at the same time to insure it is completely repaired. Heat damage can rarely be overcome in the long term by limited cleaning and tightening.  As far as the blower resistor question goes my recommendation is to do a close visual inspection. If there is any sign of heat discoloration on any of the terminals or on the plastic around the terminals then they should be replaced. If everything looks like new I would leave it alone. If you have picks and skill you could consider tightening the spring tension of each individual terminal.

2000 Nissan Maxima – Dash Lights Do Not Work

Adam B: I just installed a radio in my Maxima and now I do not have any lights in the instruments cluster or any other controls. What could be the problem?

Sparky: Are your tail and park lights working?

Adam B: Yes. They all work just the lights in the dash don’t.

Sparky: Remove the panel dimming switch that is located to the left of the steering column. You may have to loosen or remove the cluster bezel first. Turn the light on and check for power on the red/white wire and the red/yellow wire. Check for ground on the black wire. If all signals are present jump the red/yellow wire to the black wire and see if the dash lights come on. If they come on the panel dimming switch is faulty and needs to be repaired or replaced.

Adam B: I jumped the wire like u said and the lights came on. How can I fix the switch?

Sparky: You will need to carefully open it up and look for a burnt out spot on the printed circuit board. If I remember correctly there is a small strip of the circuit that will burn out near one edge. Sometimes you can clean the pieces and bridge the gap with solder. If it is too wide you will need a small piece of wire to lay across the gap and solder it in place.

Adam B:  You were right. We used a small piece of wire to jump the gap and soldered it in place. I had a friend do the soldering. He likes to build stuff like that.  Lights all work fine now. Thanks.

Sparky: Glad to help.

2005 GMC Yukon-Blower Speeds 4 & 5 Do Not Work

Jed J: I have a 2005 Yukon XL. The Heater and AC don’t not work on settings 4 and 5. I was going to replace the Blower Motor Resistor. I have looked at the connector and Terminal “G” Red and Terminal “C” Purple are burnt. I was going to do what you did in your video and replace the Blower Motor Resistor and Connector. Do I really need to replace the Blower Motor Resistor? Can’t I just replace the Connector? Does it matter what brand of Blower Motor Resistor I buy? Some are around $30 and others are as much as $60+.
One last thing, yesterday setting 5 worked just fine. I will try it again tomorrow. And see what happens.

Sparky:  Everyone’s situation is different so I can only relate my experience with these types of repairs. Any time you have a heat damaged connection you have to replace the terminals on both the harness connector and the component it attaches to with new parts in order to have a lasting repair. If not the damage will constantly transfer from the used part back to the new part and vice versa. The quality of the replacement parts also plays a part in how long the repair will last. I am a big supporter of using OE quality parts since I have to stand behind every repair that I do. Depending on your budget and abilities you could possibly get reasonable use of the system by cleaning the resistor terminals and replacing the two heat damaged terminals in the harness connector. Understand that this type of repair could range in results ranging from not working at all to working for many months. Replacing the connector and resistor with quality new parts and performing sound installation practices should yield a repair that will last for many years. Hope this helps.