This 1997 Ford F150 needs the GEM module changed due to multiple conditions. To see testing that lead to this repair please click here. The GEM module is located at the rear of the interior fuse box.
The first step is to remove the trim panel that covers the gap between the upper side of the steering column and the dash. It just unsnaps from the dash. It makes it a little easier to remove if you move the shifter all the way down to drive 1.
With that out of the way the lower dash cover can now be removed. Most of the screws have 7 mm heads but there are two that have 8 mm heads.
Those two are at the lower edge of the fuse box.
One wiring harness needs to be disconnected from the panel.
Now the screws for the fuse box can be removed.
The wiring harnesses can be removed from the back of the fuse box. Two 10 mm headed bolts at the center of each connector.
Next remove the tube brace from around the bottom of the steering column. Four fasteners with 13 mm heads.
Now wiggle, pry and twist the fuse box and GEM module assembly down.
After the assembly is down far enough unplug the remaining harness connectors from the GEM module.
Almost there.
The assembly is now free of the vehicle.
The GEM module is held to the back of the fuse box by three phillips headed screws.
Easy to remove Now.
With the three screws removed the GEM unplugs from the back of the fuse box.
I put it all back together and checked my repair for power to the driver’s power window switch.
Sparky,
I have a 1997 F-150 2WD that does not have power windows or power locks. The problem I having is the windshield wiper and the doom light (when door is open) do not work all them time. When they go out they go out together. If one is not working the other is not either. Of course most of the them they do not work when it it raining. I have pulled the GEM. It is part number F65B-14B205-AC. I do not see and corrosion on any of the parts inside the GEM, but of course there is a IC Chip inside. My first question is could this be symptoms of a bad GEM? 2nd, if it possibly the GEM is there a way to jumper out or bypass the GEM for this problem areas?
Thanks in advance,
Randy-Mississipp
Check for shorted wiring or bulbs for the exterior lighting. Also be sure to check for shorts in the trailer wiring harness. Sometimes they are tucking into rear interior compartments where the jack and tools are stored. The GEM, Alarm system, relays and wiring problems are all possibilities for your trucks issue. Without scan tool capability I would focus on finding and repairing any shorts that are blowing your fuses.
Thank you for the response! The fuse I just replaced was fuse #11 in the drivers side fuse box. The last time it was fuse #26 for the reverse lights (same location). At this very moment the SUV runs great but if I turn the headlights on they will either stay on when I turn the switch off, or like yesterday I turned the switch off and the lights turned off but when I turned off the engine and pulled the key out the lights turned on and stay on. Now during the day it is often only the park lights that stay on. When this happens and also at night with the headlights, I can pull the bat. cable off for about 30 sec. plug it back in and the lights stay off. until the next round. Could something be sticking? Could it be the Theft system? I know the theft light flashes in the dash. I have tried some rests like removing bat. cable open driver door, leave open, putting the key in the switch, turn to run, then reconnect the bat. and start engine but it doesn’t beep like the other people said it should, so not sure if that’s even right.
I could not rule out a GEM at this time but I think the problems will be elsewhere. A used GEM would not be a good idea if you do not have access to a good scan tool. Parts store scanners are normally only OBD2 and will not communicate with the rest of the systems. I would pick either a single fuse blowing or light staying on problem and stick with that until solved. You will need wiring diagrams and they are available through the Mitchell or AllData links on my site. I would be happy to point you in a direction if you could supply me with fuse numbers and locations.
Sparky, This page is amazing! I have been fighting with my 2000 Ford Explorer XLT for the past 2 years. The headlights and park lights or some times just the park lights will not turn off. For a while the problem stopped but now its back again. It all started when I had taken the car to be inspected for a sticker. I noticed the reverse lights were not working so while I was waiting I checked the fuse box on the drivers side. I found the fuse and it was out. When I put in the replacement fuse smoke started from the overhead console in the light area. I pulled the fuse and looked over the damage. all that was shot was the lights in the overhead, the sunroof was still working. After this event the lights stayed on . I thought it was related to my rear view mirror (it has the DRL delay on it) so I unplugged it but this did not seem to fix the problem. After many of other tries including headlight rely and headlight switch to the multi switch and taking it to a local mechanic who took the whole dash out and checked the wiring harness for damage. All with no luck. After a while I could leave the bat. cable off and the headlights/ park lights would not stay on unless I turned the headlights on or set the alarm on the car. After a while it started working as normal. Now the same problem is back. This time my gauges stopped working because a fuse had blown. After replacing the fuse the problem has started again but this time the only way to turn off the lights is to just disconnect the bat. I have been thinking it might be the GEM but wanted your thoughts. Other than the above the SUV runs great, including all the other electrical things in the vehicle. I plan to buy a used GEM as I cannot afford the 400+ the dealer is asking for it. If I buy a used one can I get a local auto parts store (Advance Auto) to reset all the codes in all the modules?
Thank you!
Paul