This 1997 Ford F150 needs the GEM module changed due to multiple conditions. To see testing that lead to this repair please click here. The GEM module is located at the rear of the interior fuse box.
The first step is to remove the trim panel that covers the gap between the upper side of the steering column and the dash. It just unsnaps from the dash. It makes it a little easier to remove if you move the shifter all the way down to drive 1.
With that out of the way the lower dash cover can now be removed. Most of the screws have 7 mm heads but there are two that have 8 mm heads.
Those two are at the lower edge of the fuse box.
One wiring harness needs to be disconnected from the panel.
Now the screws for the fuse box can be removed.
The wiring harnesses can be removed from the back of the fuse box. Two 10 mm headed bolts at the center of each connector.
Next remove the tube brace from around the bottom of the steering column. Four fasteners with 13 mm heads.
Now wiggle, pry and twist the fuse box and GEM module assembly down.
After the assembly is down far enough unplug the remaining harness connectors from the GEM module.
Almost there.
The assembly is now free of the vehicle.
The GEM module is held to the back of the fuse box by three phillips headed screws.
Easy to remove Now.
With the three screws removed the GEM unplugs from the back of the fuse box.
I put it all back together and checked my repair for power to the driver’s power window switch.
More than likely it is the cause but it would be interesting to look at data and see if there is a high voltage reading while the engine is running. I don’t suppose you have a scan tool do you? The best I could do is refer you to the tests at the relay and see if the signals change between KOEO & KOER.
My is Jon. I have read this whole thread on GEM replacement and found it to be informative. Please let me know if you think the GEM is issue for following symtoms. 97 F150 Manual, 4.2L V6 with power windows. Current Issue- The wipers, dome light, and power window will work with ignition key in “on” positon/ vehicle not running, but when truck is started/running then none of them work. The ignition key is in the same positon in both cases. There was a dealer installed add on remote keyless entry/ theft control device from the time the truck was new. it started to malfunction in the last 3 years. The power locks would cycle (lock and unlock rapidly) several times along with dome light shortly after starting engine. The keyless remote worked intermittantly as time went by and finally stopped working. The external light on the back of the cab that lights up the bed would stay on for long periods of time. I recently removed the dealer add-on remote keyless entry and anti theft wiring harness. The power lock cycling and dome light issue went away. We have had wet and damp weather in the last month. The wipers worked intermittently while driving and have deteriorated to only working now with the engine off/ key in on position. I am now thinking the keyless remote issue may have been related to the GEM failing and not the keyless remote lock circuitry. What are your thoughts? FYI- All fuses have been checked and relay modules in the fuse boxes pulled for visual inspection and reinstalled after looking for corrosion. Your thoughts?
Thanks for your time and wisdom. I will let you know how it turns out. I am afraid I might have fried something when I was having the trouble with my battery. I did have to get a jump three different times before I replaced it. I will let you know how it turns out.
The quick response was just luck. I happened to be online checking things. I would recommend starting with a wiring diagram. I am at home right now with no access to info but I think there is a crank fuse and a starter relay that would be good places to start testing. You may be able to locate them in your owners manual.
Wow! thanks for the prompt response. There is no remote start or keyless entry and no power windows. I only drive a mile or two a day. When I had my old battery tested, I was advised that I need to drive for longer periods as the battery was not being recharged from the drain of starting. This is what I was told caused my battery to weaken and begin to fail. The new battery solved the sluggish starting and everything was fine for a day. The next day I noticed that my radio was playing when I got in my truck. I noticed that I had to fiddle with the key position to get the accessories to turm off fully. I thought, “OK, I can live with this.” Now today, I got in my truck and drove to work just fine. When I put my truck into park, there is a grinding noise like I am trying to start the engine when its already on. I pull out the key and the truck turns off. Then it keep trying to start for a few seconds on and off. Finally, it just keeps cranking non-stop but never starting. No amount of moving the key in the ignition switch makes any difference. I had to pull the battery cable.