Time to remove the dash assembly from this 2007 Lincoln Town Car. I had previously diagnosed a faulty Panel/Defrost Mode Actuator and removed the Steering Column Assembly. Now it was time to move on to the main dash assembly. There are two actuators on this vehicle that cannot be changed without first removing the dash assembly the Panel/Defrost Mode actuator and the Floor Mode actuator.
I removed the actual instrument cluster in order to lighten the load and because they are relatively fragile. The shift indicator cable had already been disconnected during the process of removing the steering column.
There are four 7 mm headed screw that secure the cluster to the dash panel/carrier.
Once the screws are removed the cluster can be maneuvered around to gain access to the harness connector. The gray lever shown below would have been all of the way to the right and laying tight against the connector body. There is a latch that has to be depressed so that the lever can be lifted and rotated to the left position.
When the lever reaches the full left position it will begin to lift the connector body from the instrument cluster assembly. The terminals are delicate and care should be taken to keep the connector from moving any direction except straight up.
The clock and radio do not have to be removed first in order for the dash assembly but they will need to be removed later to gain access to the screws holding the duct work in place. They are easier to remove while the dash assembly is still in the car and it will make the assembly lighter. Two screws hold the top edge of the clock in place. Then the clock has to be firmly pulled from the dash as it is still held in place by two spring clip retainers.
There is one harness connector at the rear of the clock assembly.
There are two screws behind the clock that secure the upper edge of the radio assembly. There are two more screws at the two lower corners. All of the retaining screws for the clock and the radio have 7 mm heads.
On this Town Car there were two electrical plugs and on antenna lead attached to the rear of the radio assembly.
Now the “A” pillar trim panels have to be removed. The door seals in that area should also be pulled loose from the body lip.
I find it easier to pull the panel from the top edge and bring in down towards the seat in order to free the spring clip retainers. The panel can then be rocked back and forth and ultimately lifted from the corner of the dash.
Now that the “A” pillar trim panels are removed the forward dash panel cover can be lifted from one corner.
The lifting motion can continue across the dash until the panel is fully loosened.
Care should be taken to lift this panel high enough to clear the main dash assembly so that the clips will not drag across the softer dash surfaces.
There are a total of three screws with 7 mm heads and one screw/bolt with a 10 mm head that attach the top edge of the dash assembly to the body. The three 7 mm headed screws are longer than any other similar screws in the dash and should be kept separate for proper re installation later.
The passenger side underdash hush panel is held in place with three push pin retainers. A tool can be used to pull them loose but I just pulled the panel down by starting at one corner and working my way across. Once these pins get older and more brittle that will no longer work. Yes this car is nearly ten years old but it has been garage kept most of it’s life so all of the plastics are in better shape than most.
The panel drops down and the courtesy light socket can be twisted loose and removed.
After opening the glove box the sides of the inner compartment need to be pulled in to release the stop pins. I do this because I need the extra room for the next step.
The cable stop attaching pin will need to be removed from the side of the glove box. Not easy to see but there is a small detent on the lower edge that has to be released and then the pin can be slid down to the larger slot for removal.
There are two 7 mm headed screws that hold the glove box hinge bracket to the dash. When reinstalling pay attention to the two nearby holes that have alignment bosses around their inner circumferences. Snug the screws and wiggle the hinge bracket around while applying a slight upward pressure. Until you feel them drop into position.