Now that the Steering Column has been removed and Part One of The Dash Removal has been completed the focus can be turned to the lower connection points. The rocker/kick panel trim cover can be removed by lifting the inner rear edge and shown below. This will release the spring clips that hold it to the floor.
Then at the kick panel area it can be pulled towards the rear of the vehicle to release those clips.
There are two main inline harness connectors that have to be disconnected. The upper black connector has two locking levers at the rear of the connector that prevent the white locking bar from moving. After they have been depressed the lever can be rotated towards the front of the vehicle. The white connector withe the gray locking bar has a push button latch just behind the center of the gray locking bar. On both connectors once the locking bars are fully rotated to the unlock position the connectors will need to be pulled firmly to separate the inline harness connections.
There are two ground point locations that are secured by bolts with 8 mm heads.
All of the connectors disconnected.
Under the hood on the driver’s side of the firewall there are two connectors. The larger connector must be removed. There is a securing bolt in the center of the connector body with a 10 mm head.
There are two fasteners that hold the driver’s side of the dash assembly to the body. Both have 15 mm hex heads. It is kind of hard to focus on but I have a deep well socket and extension installed on the 15 mm nut in the next image.
The same socket and extension installed on the lower bolt.
The shifter cable is attached to the rear of the dash assembly where I am point to in the next image.
The clip that cannot be seen on the rear of the metal bracket attaches around the rubber location sleeve on the cable.
After the connector has been pulled loose and moved out of the way the latches that secure the inner connector to the firewall will need to be depressed and the connector body pushed to the inside of the vehicle.
On the passenger side of the dash the next image shows that the kick/rocker trim panel has already been removed. The black and gray harness connectors have been separated.
There is also an antenna lead that has to be separated and another ground terminal bolt removed. For some reason I do not have clear images of two fasteners that need to be removed from this general location. There is a 10 mm hex nut in the top right corner of the next image. It is right at the shadow line. Also there is a bolt with a 10 mm head that is to the right of the glove box opening that secures the dash assembly bracket to the body side wall.
To the right of the gas pedal area there is a small carpeted trim panel with a push pin fastener securing it to the inner bracket.
With the trim panel removed and the carpet access panel flipped back the four 13 mm nuts can be removed that hold the lower center support bracket in place. At this point the dash is loose and care should be taken to make sure it stays in position while the last of the prep work is done.
There is a connector for the SRS module that needs to be disconnected behind the lower center support bracket location.
There is a single lever/thumb latch at the top of the connector body that has to be depressed before the connector can be removed from the SRS module.
At this point the dash is loose and ready for removal. It can be done by one person but it is much easier with two. That is why there is no picture of the actual removal. Note that I have installed covers over the seat. I found it easier to remove the assembly out the driver’s door opening. We rolled the dash assembly down and rested it against the seat. I got a good grip on it from the driver’s seat position while my assistant worked from the passenger side of the vehicle. We lifted and moved it out of the vehicle in unison in stages.
The dash assembly out and laying on multiple fender covers on my shop floor.
A look from the passenger side of the vehicle.