This 2003 Chevrolet Silverado came in with both daytime running lights inoperative. In order to access the DRL bulbs the headlight assembly has to be removed first. It is pretty simple. Locate the retaining pin and lift up the lever.
With the lever lifted up the pin can be slid out towards the center of the grill.
Now that the pin is removed the headlight assembly can be tilted forward.
Once the assembly is far enough out the wires can be disconnected from the bulbs.
All right now the headlight assembly is out of the way you can access the DRL socket from the rear of the lower light assembly. However it is pretty easy most of the time to just depress the latch at the outer edge of the light assembly.
I am using a screw driver to depress the latch and then the assembly will come out quite easily.
I removed the socket from the lens assembly with the intention of just replacing the bulb but I found that the socket was damaged, burnt out.
I spliced in a new 4184 socket assembly. Installed a new bulb, placed the socket back into the light assembly and reassembled the truck. Another one fixed.
To order this socket please click here.
You have let me realize that I did not put enough information on actually splicing in the new socket. There has been some confusion so I have added another post on that subject.
Click here to see.
Sparky..
I’m getting ready to order two of the DRL sockets, because mine are much like the initial post, “toasted”. My inclination is to change both, CMA. I’ve been through the “if the one goes, the second on isn’t far behind” theory.
My question, is the little black nib that sits atop the dash, is that the sensor that activates drl/headlamps? Or is it in the rear view mirror.
Lisa
The first place to start is with checking the bulbs and socket. If they are okay, the next step would be to check the power and ground circuits at the socket with the DRL on, to see which circuit is missing.
I also have a chevy 2500hd and the headlights come illuminate by themselves when it gets dark but the DRL do not come on at all no matter what time of day. How do I troubleshot this? I understand the truck has to be running and in gear for them to turn on?
Hi KC,
I am not familiar with your particular problem (vehicle specific).The theory would be that Ford has identified the problem and made corrections in the replacement socket kit. I like the idea of lower current draw from a LED but the weight issue causes vibration and subsequent terminal compression problems. Using high quality bulbs with plastic bases seem to work better for me. The plastic acts as an insulator to keep the connection points cooler. Beware of cheap plastics though. They can cause more problems. The glass based bulbs seem to conduct too much heat into the socket. That aside is the failure in the park light or stoplight circuit? My assumption would be that it is the stoplight circuit as it uses a brighter bulb, 4157LL. If it is, then the simplest solution is new sockets and bulbs accompanied with the knowledge that over use of the stoplights is an issue. When stuck in traffic or drive in lanes put the truck in park, neutral or use the parking brake. Anything to give the bulb and socket time to rest or cool down.
Dear Sparky,
I have a very similar prob on a 2008 F350 tail light assy. I can complete an easy fix w/just new bulbs but the cause is the sockets themselves are getting too much heat and failing. Ford even has a $12 fix with a socket replacement/wire module b/cause its becoming such a common issue. What would best fix this once an for all? LED conversion, thicker sockets, different bulb types? You rarely see this in Toyotas and Nissans….
Ford never again….
KC