This 2003 Ford Explorer came in with several complaints; the door ajar light stays on with the doors closed and the engine running, the dome and puddle lights stay on for ten minutes after exiting the vehicle, when locking the doors the doors will lock then unlock on their own and the alarm will go off for no reason. This was pretty easy to isolate to the driver’s door ajar switch with the aid of a good scan tool. Once I found that the driver’s door ajar switch was reporting an open door no matter what position the door was in, all I had to do was confirm that it was a switch and not wiring or a computer problem.
In removing the door panel the first step is to remove the interior door handle trim panel. At the forward edge insert a small flat prying tool and release the retainers.
After removing the panel now you can lift and remove the switch trim panel assembly. There is one screw under the panel that has to be removed.
There are two screws that have to be removed from the lower edge of the door panel.
After removing all three screws lift the door panel up and towards you. Then you will need to support the panel and remove the wiring from the power mirror switch. This can be a little difficult so take your time. You will need to slide a small screwdriver blade under the retaining clip in order to release the harness connector.
Peel the left hand side of the vapor barrier back and locate the harness connector that I did not get a picture of.
Update October 21, 2011. Well, I finally got another one of these Explorers in and took some extra pictures to show the harness connector and the wires. Note the change in paint colors
Disconnect the harness connector and with an ohm meter check the resistance of the door ajar switch,two small wires yellow/black and black. The resistance should change from an open to a closed circuit with the movement of the latch assembly. If it does not change the switch is faulty.
You may also take a jumper wire and connect the small yellow/black to the small black wire and see if the lights and locks respond properly now. A closed circuit indicates a closed door and the lights and locks should now function properly. Roll a window down before doing this so that you will not lock the keys in the car.
The backside of the harness connector. I looked at the color codes to locate the two needed wires.
In order to remove the latch assembly and or the door ajar switch the lower window track will have to be removed. There are two screws at the rear of the door.
There are three screws that hold the latch in place. There is also linkage that will have to be removed. Pay careful attention to positioning and adjustments so that reassembly will not be a problem.
After gaining access remove the harness connector and twist the switch to release and then pull. To install the new switch push the switch into position and rotate until click is felt. Reassemble door and test system as you go.
Sparky, Thanks for the tips. Unfortunately, they haven’t helped my situation. My Door Ajar light is lit, nothing else (dome/pubble lights). I can’t isolate which door is the issue. I’ve checked all grounds and found no broken/loose wires. I checked all door switches and they all seem to be working fine (resistance changes as they open and close). I tried the WD-40 everywhere with no change. The strange thing is that my radio/windows will still have power after turning off the truck for the 9 minutes until they time out and shut off even if I open ANY door during that point which should turn them off. That means it is not sensing ANY door opening, yet the Door Ajar light stays lit. My remote is disabled, so I have no way of popping the glass portion of my hatch to check that, but the rear wiper still works so I’m told it’s not that switch. Power door locks don’t work at all at this point, and I’m out of ideas on what to do. Any advice?
You are correct checking the condition of the bump stops, latches and strikers is an important thing to do. I do wish you would have read and followed the testing instructions in the repair post though. It would have saved you time and money also. Just as your Ford dealer did, I isolated the problem to the appropriate door using a scan tool. I realize that not everyone has a scan tool or a shop that they can rely on for this kind of help so, I included tests for the switches using a ohm meter and a jumper wire.
I used your diagrams to change the switches in both front doors of my 2003 EB Expy. Problem not solved! In fact the door ajar light and chime would come on about every 10-20 seconds. My new Ford service (I didn’t trust the other guys) isolated the problem at the right rear door, so I bought another switch for that door. But before I put it in, I noticed that I was missing one of the little cone-shaped black rubber door bumpers on the door jamb. I replaced it – no more door ajar problem!!!
This isn’t to say that the stupid door ajar sensor design can’t be the culprit – I just want to suggest that you look first to see if there is any bumper missing – you could save a lot of time and money!
I know… I’m sowwy… I couldn’t find my ohmmeter 🙁
I am glad this post helped you resolve your problem. If you would have paid careful attention, to the test procedure of jumping the yellow and black wires together, you might of found the faulty ground wire earlier. Also, I sincerely hope, that when you were jumping wires around, you were doing so with the aid of a wiring diagram. Haphazardly jumping wires can cause extensive damage to electronics. I do not mean to sound like I am scolding you, I just want to make sure other readers don’t wires unless they are totally informed about where the wires terminate.
Thanks,
Sparky