This 2003 Ford Explorer came in with several complaints; the door ajar light stays on with the doors closed and the engine running, the dome and puddle lights stay on for ten minutes after exiting the vehicle, when locking the doors the doors will lock then unlock on their own and the alarm will go off for no reason. This was pretty easy to isolate to the driver’s door ajar switch with the aid of a good scan tool. Once I found that the driver’s door ajar switch was reporting an open door no matter what position the door was in, all I had to do was confirm that it was a switch and not wiring or a computer problem.
In removing the door panel the first step is to remove the interior door handle trim panel. At the forward edge insert a small flat prying tool and release the retainers.
After removing the panel now you can lift and remove the switch trim panel assembly. There is one screw under the panel that has to be removed.
There are two screws that have to be removed from the lower edge of the door panel.
After removing all three screws lift the door panel up and towards you. Then you will need to support the panel and remove the wiring from the power mirror switch. This can be a little difficult so take your time. You will need to slide a small screwdriver blade under the retaining clip in order to release the harness connector.
Peel the left hand side of the vapor barrier back and locate the harness connector that I did not get a picture of.
Update October 21, 2011. Well, I finally got another one of these Explorers in and took some extra pictures to show the harness connector and the wires. Note the change in paint colors
Disconnect the harness connector and with an ohm meter check the resistance of the door ajar switch,two small wires yellow/black and black. The resistance should change from an open to a closed circuit with the movement of the latch assembly. If it does not change the switch is faulty.
You may also take a jumper wire and connect the small yellow/black to the small black wire and see if the lights and locks respond properly now. A closed circuit indicates a closed door and the lights and locks should now function properly. Roll a window down before doing this so that you will not lock the keys in the car.
The backside of the harness connector. I looked at the color codes to locate the two needed wires.
In order to remove the latch assembly and or the door ajar switch the lower window track will have to be removed. There are two screws at the rear of the door.
There are three screws that hold the latch in place. There is also linkage that will have to be removed. Pay careful attention to positioning and adjustments so that reassembly will not be a problem.
After gaining access remove the harness connector and twist the switch to release and then pull. To install the new switch push the switch into position and rotate until click is felt. Reassemble door and test system as you go.
Sparky:
I wanted to thank you for taking the time to post all this helpful information! I,too had all the listed symptoms, and also, with a 6 month-old battery, it went dead if I didn’d drive the vehicle at least every other day.
I paid a local Car-X $20 to scan the doors and it reported the door ajar switch in the drivers door. Ford hooked me up with the switch for $30. I used your instructions, and found them accurate to the letter. Only thing is, after installing the new switch, I had the same problem!
I also was experiencing the door lock/unlock switch on the drivers door not working, as well as no power rear view mirrors. I was figuring a bad switch(s). Since I had not put the switch panel back in the door yet, I began experimenting with a hot lead on the switch plugs. Everything worked that way! UNTIL I started the car, then back to the original symptoms… (WTHITS???)
So I attacked from the other side… ground. I poked a grounded lead into the ground pin of the door lock/unlock switch, and everything worked again! Even with the car running, and when I shut the door, the ajar light went out for the first time in 2 years!
I took it for a drive with all the switches bouncing around and the ground lead taped into the switch so it wouldn’t fall out. The doors locked themselves as they should when pulling away in Drive, ajar light off, doors not locking/unlocking themselves, dome light off, etc.
So I cut the black ground wire going to the door lock/unlock switch about 2″ from the plug. (Any ground wire in the door EXCEPT the power windows grounds will work, but this one is EASY to get to) I spliced in a wire and ran it through the rubber tunnel into the car, fished it out the bottom near the hood release handle, and grounded it to a screw right there already being used for a ground point. It looks hard, but with the drivers kick panel removed, it’s REALLY EASY compared to fishing that switch out of the door.
So I bought a switch I didn’t need, oh well, I have a spare now. But if it weren’t for this blog, I wouldn’t have been in the door trying it, and eventually would have had to pay Ford a few hundred bucks to MAYBE find the problem.
Many Thanks!!
Chris
The part if needed is only available from a dealership. The dealership parts department will be able to look this up for you. I strongly suggest you have some one check to see which one of the doors, if any are causing your problem. You will need to contact your local mechanic to see if they can read this data or not and how much they charge. Most small shops that have the tools will charge between $25 and $75 for the service. You need to ask first.
I’m trying to fix the same problem on a 2003 Expedition, and it looks like it’s almost the exact same issue. Do you know where I can find the part number for the door switch once I figure out which door is faulty?
Thanks for the instructions it took me about an hour to fix and can be done with a ratcheting driver set with flat head, phillips and star bits along with some small sockets. A kit ratcheting driver set can be picked up cheap! The part was $30 from ford.
It was 1L2Z13713AA