This 2003 Ford Explorer came in with several complaints; the door ajar light stays on with the doors closed and the engine running, the dome and puddle lights stay on for ten minutes after exiting the vehicle, when locking the doors the doors will lock then unlock on their own and the alarm will go off for no reason. This was pretty easy to isolate to the driver’s door ajar switch with the aid of a good scan tool. Once I found that the driver’s door ajar switch was reporting an open door no matter what position the door was in, all I had to do was confirm that it was a switch and not wiring or a computer problem.
In removing the door panel the first step is to remove the interior door handle trim panel. At the forward edge insert a small flat prying tool and release the retainers.
After removing the panel now you can lift and remove the switch trim panel assembly. There is one screw under the panel that has to be removed.
There are two screws that have to be removed from the lower edge of the door panel.
After removing all three screws lift the door panel up and towards you. Then you will need to support the panel and remove the wiring from the power mirror switch. This can be a little difficult so take your time. You will need to slide a small screwdriver blade under the retaining clip in order to release the harness connector.
Peel the left hand side of the vapor barrier back and locate the harness connector that I did not get a picture of.
Update October 21, 2011. Well, I finally got another one of these Explorers in and took some extra pictures to show the harness connector and the wires. Note the change in paint colors
Disconnect the harness connector and with an ohm meter check the resistance of the door ajar switch,two small wires yellow/black and black. The resistance should change from an open to a closed circuit with the movement of the latch assembly. If it does not change the switch is faulty.
You may also take a jumper wire and connect the small yellow/black to the small black wire and see if the lights and locks respond properly now. A closed circuit indicates a closed door and the lights and locks should now function properly. Roll a window down before doing this so that you will not lock the keys in the car.
The backside of the harness connector. I looked at the color codes to locate the two needed wires.
In order to remove the latch assembly and or the door ajar switch the lower window track will have to be removed. There are two screws at the rear of the door.
There are three screws that hold the latch in place. There is also linkage that will have to be removed. Pay careful attention to positioning and adjustments so that reassembly will not be a problem.
After gaining access remove the harness connector and twist the switch to release and then pull. To install the new switch push the switch into position and rotate until click is felt. Reassemble door and test system as you go.
Thanks for your response Sparky. I finally took the doors apart to look for the switch. I sprayed the driver side door connectors down with electrical cleaner and made sure the switch was functioning. I had no luck with that. I then did the same thing to the front passenger side and discovered my switch seemed like the button on the end was fairly gummed up so I worked it with the spray and seemed like it helped the gunky build up. I attached everything back and voila the problem was solved It was the passenger door that was causing the problem not the driver side. However, that was about a month ago. My problem has since returned but this time the ball in the sensor seemed stuck and it wasn’t retracting when pushed. So before I purchased a new one I wanted to make sure it wasn’t a wiring issue (Since the Ford Brand part is $100). I was able to determine with a meter I was getting voltage to my connectors. I jumpered the connector to see if that would make the “door ajar” issue go away and it did. I hope this will finally solve my problem until I can get a new switch. It was a 2003 Ford Explorer XLT flex fuel. I appreciate all your help Sparky, this page was a huge recourse in saving me from having to pay huge money to Ford for fixing it!
My initial guess would be another broken wire in the driver’s door jamb wiring. My secondary guess would be that your vehicle is looking for a closed circuit that is not being provided by the door ajar switch. Disconnecting the switch will not provide this circuit either. I would need to know the year make and model of your vehicle in order to look at the wiring diagrams and determine how your system is designed.
I have had a door ajar issue for quite a while now. I have tried the WD-40 solution and it has never worked. I had an issues with my windows and door ajar at the same time before I found a cracked wire in the tubing of the door. I have since fixed the wire and the windows and the door ajar went away for a while. In the last 3-4 weeks my door ajar issue has come back and is constant now. The light stays on all the time and the chime goes off constantly. The windows, locks, and remote all work fine. The doors all lock from inside and with the remote. I have tried to disconnect the sensors in the front two doors, but have had no luck. I do not have a tester to diagnose which door is giving me the issue. My alternator just went bad and I can’t help but think this is the cause. Please Help!!
Outstanding article, followed your directions and found a bad door ajar sensor, replaced it, everything seems to be working great, no more false door ajar warnings or random alarms – fingers crossed – thank you so much for the service you provide.
2003 Explorer, the puddle lights off, door ajar on, driver door lock switch no work. Found that the ground under the kick panel right side loose. Fixed all problems.