This 2003 Ford Explorer came in with several complaints; the door ajar light stays on with the doors closed and the engine running, the dome and puddle lights stay on for ten minutes after exiting the vehicle, when locking the doors the doors will lock then unlock on their own and the alarm will go off for no reason. This was pretty easy to isolate to the driver’s door ajar switch with the aid of a good scan tool. Once I found that the driver’s door ajar switch was reporting an open door no matter what position the door was in, all I had to do was confirm that it was a switch and not wiring or a computer problem.
In removing the door panel the first step is to remove the interior door handle trim panel. At the forward edge insert a small flat prying tool and release the retainers.
After removing the panel now you can lift and remove the switch trim panel assembly. There is one screw under the panel that has to be removed.
There are two screws that have to be removed from the lower edge of the door panel.
After removing all three screws lift the door panel up and towards you. Then you will need to support the panel and remove the wiring from the power mirror switch. This can be a little difficult so take your time. You will need to slide a small screwdriver blade under the retaining clip in order to release the harness connector.
Peel the left hand side of the vapor barrier back and locate the harness connector that I did not get a picture of.
Update October 21, 2011. Well, I finally got another one of these Explorers in and took some extra pictures to show the harness connector and the wires. Note the change in paint colors
Disconnect the harness connector and with an ohm meter check the resistance of the door ajar switch,two small wires yellow/black and black. The resistance should change from an open to a closed circuit with the movement of the latch assembly. If it does not change the switch is faulty.
You may also take a jumper wire and connect the small yellow/black to the small black wire and see if the lights and locks respond properly now. A closed circuit indicates a closed door and the lights and locks should now function properly. Roll a window down before doing this so that you will not lock the keys in the car.
The backside of the harness connector. I looked at the color codes to locate the two needed wires.
In order to remove the latch assembly and or the door ajar switch the lower window track will have to be removed. There are two screws at the rear of the door.
There are three screws that hold the latch in place. There is also linkage that will have to be removed. Pay careful attention to positioning and adjustments so that reassembly will not be a problem.
After gaining access remove the harness connector and twist the switch to release and then pull. To install the new switch push the switch into position and rotate until click is felt. Reassemble door and test system as you go.
Thanks for the reply about my 2005 Ford Explorer. I turned off the dormer light rotating switch, and that solved nearly all of the problems including the radio turning off when the ignition gets turned off. I have yet to inspect the manual locks.
It actually sounds like a combination of several things. First the key should lock and unlock the driver’s door whether the battery is connected or not. So more than likely you have a door lock actuator problem. the radio going off and the puddle lights staying on are more than likely the result of a faulty door ajar switch in one or more of the doors. The driver’s puddle light not working and possible mirror problems would indicate broken wires in the driver’s door jamb. Broken wires in the door jamb could account for many of the problems.
Hi Sprarky – I hope this forum is still active because I need your help. I have a 2005 Ford Explorer XLT that is experiencing some of these similar issues. I have read through the thread and hope that I understand this well enough.
Your instructions seem clear enough, but I need to try and tackle this on my own rather than taking it into a shop (with financing the house, I can’t spend the money right now to get the repairs done and everyone here seems to have been successful). I have tried the W-D40 trick to no avail. Here is what I am experiencing:
– Dormer lights staying on for an indefinite amount of time
– Puddle light staying on as well
– Drivers puddle light now turning off while passengers stays on (no the light has not gone out)
– The radio turns off as soon as the key turns off the car. What should happen is that it stays on for 10 minutes or until the car door opens
– If I disconnect the battery, I cannot manually lock the car with a key
– If the battery is connected, and I am in the car with ignition turned on or off, occasionally I cannot use the lock presser button to lock the car. I can do so from the front passenger door however.
– Door ajar light is on but all doors are securely shut including the hatch. The door ajar light goes off after car gets rolling
– auto lock takes a significant amount of time to lock after the car is rolling. Its typically automatic after one-a few rotations of the tires.
– I’m not sure about adjusting the side mirrors. It was very late when I was trying and might have not set my button to the correct position. They work fine while car is in motion.
Sparky,
Glad I found your site, this had been making us crazy on the wife’s 2002 Explorer. It would come and go, usually setting off the horn alarm in the middle of the night when a switch decided to get lazy and quit working right.
Found the front passengers door and rear drivers door to both be bad, jumpering around them brought peace back to the world. I may just leave them bypassed, the dealer said the rear doors take a different switch and it’s $90!
Thanks again, donation coming your way….
I did a post on a 1997 Explorer that you might also want to read. It published on November 30, 2012.