This 2001 Dodge Dakota came in with the complaints that the turn signals, stoplights and hazards lights all quit working. This repair will generally apply to 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004 Dakota and Durango vehicles. Testing begins with checking fuse 19 in the interior fuse box and fuse 1 in the power distribution center under the hood. Fuse 19 in the interior fuse box needs to be checked with the ignition on. Both fuses tested good and were properly powered.
The next step is to check the circuits at the combination flasher located under the driver’s side of the dash. The parking brake handle was missing on this Dakota so I can’t show how to disconnect it.
There are three screws along the lower edge of the knee bolster panel that need to be removed. In this case a T20 bit was needed.
With those screws removed the panel can be rocked and pulled towards the driver’s seat in order to disengage the spring clips.
In the following image i am grasping the combination flasher and the harness connector with bracket.
There is a locking tab that has to be released so that the assembly can be removed from the metal bracket.
It takes a little maneuvering to get the assembly positioned to where testing can begin.
The combination flasher will pull out of the harness connector/mounting base. Note that it has two sets of connectors that look like two relays sitting side by side.
The top of the combination flasher with the oem part number on it, 56049114AA.
Now for testing. With the ignition on there should be power on the small black wire as shown below.
There should be constant battery power on the larger black wire with a white stripe.
There should be power on the tan/white wire when the brake pedal is depressed.
Now testing switches gears a little. Since we had determined that there was battery power at all times at the black/white wire we are now going to use a jumper wire to connect the clamp of the test light to the circuit. Now that the clamp is connected to battery power we are ready to check the switched ground circuits.
Turning the hazard switch on while backprobing the pink wire turns the test light on proving that the hazard switch is good.
Turning the right turn signal on while backprobing the light blue/yellow wire proves that the right side of the turn signal switch is working properly.
The same test is done on the light blue/white wire while turning on the left turn signal.
Since all tests were positive the diagnosis is a faulty combination flasher assembly. A new combination flasher was installed and it resolved all three problems. As always remember to stop guessing and start testing.
So would it likely be a faulty flasher relay if I have signals, brakes, everything, but when I turn the hazards on I have nothing? No flashing, notta?
I would suspect a faulty flasher and then possibly an issue with the switch or it’s wiring. Sometimes you can squeeze or flex the relay while the lights are turned on but not responding and they will start. That is a definite indicator that the flasher would be faulty.
Every test worked for me except the test with the brown and white wire
That would suggest that you have a problem with your brake lights. If so, check fuse #5 in the power distribution center and the stoplight switch.
Replaced brake light switch and I now have and multi switch. Test flash rely harness and everything worked as it should. Still no brake lights top or bottom no turn signal or flashers front, back or even inside the dash
It would be much easier to carry on this conversation in the “Ask a Question” section.
Okay, so I put in a new Flasher, but it didn’t work. Could the problems be in the wiring? What is that tool you are using to test the wires?
I was using a test light but a volt meter can also be used.
Hello I’m having the same problem and I’m trying to replace the flasher, but I’m not sure how to release the locking tab like you are in the picture. I see you are using a pen of some sort. Can you remember how you used that pen to release the locking tab?
I used a pocket screwdriver and do not remember the exact details but from looking at the pictures there appears to be a plastic locking tab that has to be lifted before the housing will slide off of the bracket.
Nice it worked thank you very much!