This 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee came in with the complaint that the turns signals would work sometimes. When it arrived at the shop they were not working at all. Experience tells me that it is probably a faulty flasher assembly but a few panels have to be removed to access the flasher relay.
The panel at the lower edge of the instrument cluster unsnaps and pulls away. It has to be maneuvered around the tilt lever.
The fuse box cover at the lower left of the dash has to be removed. It unsnaps and pulls down.
There is a 10 mm headed screw in each of the lower corners of the knee bolster.
A phillip’s head screw at the end of the dash.
Two phillip’s headed screws at the top edge. One on either side of the steering column.
In the picture below, I am pointing out that there are relays above the fuse area.
The hazard/turn signal flasher relay. With either the hazards or turns signals switched on it usually only takes a slight push to make the flasher start working again. After I was sure of the problem, I used a pair of pliers to gently grab the relay and wiggle it from its socket.
I then used a couple of small screw drivers to release the side latches that hold the cover on the relay assembly.
With the latches released I separated the two pieces.
If you look closely at the upper left solder joint you should see the crack in the solder joint.
A little touch up with a soldering gun and some electronics grade solder and this one was fixed.
Sometimes more that one solder joint will have to be repaired so look closely.
In order to cover all the bases you will need to do some more testing. By any chance is there enough room to partially install the relay and test voltage at the terminals? Or can you access the back of the relay connector/socket and test there?
So I tested that and I have power when switched left, right and hazard. The relay is new, fuses are new, everything works on the signal switch (ie the lights, brights, fogs). Any ideas what else may cause them not to work? I appreciate all the help your already giving me and everyone else!!
That would be correct, sort of. With the center knob in the 10 volt dc position the gauge should peg out. At the 50 volt dc position it should read battery voltage on the center 50V scale. That would equate to about a quarter scale movement of the gauge needle.
my question for testing would be: red prob in terminal 6 and black prob in terminals 7,8,9 and if I get activity then I’m getting power right?
It would be very involved for me to teach you how to use the meter. I Googled the product and found this instruction manual pdf.
http://www.sperryinstruments.com/documents/products/sp-5a.pdf