In the last post about this 2009 Toyota Camry, I had diagnosed a blown multi fuse link assembly. To see that post please click here. The next step to repair this vehicle was to remove the battery and battery tray. Once it was out of the way I started unbolting the underhood fuse box assembly. The bottom bolt had been under the plastic battery tray. It can be removed without taking the battery out but the fuse box cannot be disassembled with the battery in place. This same repair also applies to the 2007 year model so my assumption would be that it also applies to the 2008 year model. It also applies to the 2010 year model
There are two bolts along the upper edge as well. All of the bolts have 10mm heads.
Once the bolts are removed, the box still did not want to move very well and I found a peg that had a slight friction grip to the inner fender panel. A little gentle prying exposed the retention tab located towards the rear of the vehicle. Depressing that tab from the rear and pushing it towards the front of the vehicle allowed the tab to come right out.
The next thing I decided to remove was the alternator lead and the three white harness connectors. All of the connectors have latches that have to be depressed before they can be pulled loose. The cable was held on by a 10mm nut.
Once the wiring was loose, the panel that they were connected to would slide up and out of the main fuse box assembly.
Now the bottom bracket had to be removed.
There are two locking tabs that have to be released from the inner slot and then the bracket will slide down and off of the fuse box assembly. You can use a small screwdriver blade to depress the tabs from the outside of the box. The larger cover under the box also has to have it’s locking tabs released because both of the lower pieces have to slide down, out or off of the main box at the same time. I have added some new pictures to hopefully better show how this is done. Notice the vehicle paint color has changed.
The clips that hold the lower cover to the fuse box assembly. There are several that need to be released.
Now that the two halves are separated, the fuse box insert, which also happens to be a forward control body module, needs to be removed from the main fuse box.
After the latches on either end are released the insert will lift up and off of the main fuse box.
It will need to be pulled away from the fuse box to gain better access to the screws holding the multi fuse link assembly in place.
Since this was my first experience with this type of design I took my time and used a mirror to inspect the situation from underneath. I realized that the lower multi link would pull out of the fuse box. The only thing that had it secured was the 10 mm nut that had held the alternator cable in place.
Once that nut and harness assembly was out of the way that multi fuse link assembly can be simply pulled out of the fuse box. I was hoping it would allow access to the bolts that held the other multi link assembly in place.
It did not so I had to attack it from the other side. This cover looks like it will pull out of the way.
I decided to just move it enough to gain access to the mounting screws.
It was a little bit of a pain but not too bad at this point.
A little bit more pulling.
And the multi fuse link assembly was finally out.
The fuse link at the far right of the assembly is the one that had been causing all of the problem. It had been blown when the battery jump box was connected to the battery with the leads reversed.
Reversing the cables will also blow the following fuses and the engine will not run until they are replaced.
Sorry for the blurred picture.
I try to always check a sub miniature fuse circuit with a standard mini fuse in case there is still a short present. The regular mini fuse is less expensive if it blows. After clearing the ciruit as okay I go back and install the correct fuse.