This 2001 Honda Civic came in with a multitude of problems one of which was a code P1298 stored for an ELD fault (electric load detector circuit input high). I had never had to actually test one of these before although I knew that they existed. The ELD sends a signal to the engine control computer so that the computer can adjust the alternator output in relation to power consumption. The ELD is located in the underhood fuse box. I am pointing to it with my screw driver.
To test the ELD I had to lift the underhood fuse box and remove the bottom cover. Once removed I could access the wiring for the ELD. The wire on the far right of the connector is power supply (battery voltage).
The wire in the middle of the connector is battery ground.
The wire on the far left of the connector is a five volt signal sent from the computer. The ELD will pull the voltage lower with increased system load and should vary with a change in load. For example if the blower or headlights are turned on it should drop. This particular unit was stuck at 3.81 volts and would not change with no loads or full loads applied. If the voltage had been near zero I would have had to unplug the connector and see if the five volt reference signal was being sent by the computer and wiring.
After testing and finding a faulty ELD, it was very easy to change. I removed the four adjoining phillips headed screws that held the two PAL fuses in place.
I released the latch on the harness connector and unplugged the connector.
With the wiring removed I simply lifted the unit. Slid the bar out and installed the new unit.
Below are a couple of pictures of the actual ELD part from Honda.
Hi Sparky, I have a 2002 Civic EX sedan. My ECU is showing codes P0132 and P1298. These codes started displaying a few months ago while I was hearing a very annoying rattle come from the catalytic converter. I ripped off the heat shield to the cat and the rattle stopped and the CEL went off. Since then the CEL stays off but I still can read the codes from the ECE. Also just recently (past few weeks) The car will almost stall when its first started and in neutral. It will go from 1k RPM down to like 250-500 and back up again. It almost stalls but never does. Also, while accelerating when the engine is cold, I will lose power. I can be pressing my foot all the way to the floor and will continue to loose power untill about 10 seconds when a jolt of power comes back and I accelerate greatly. This problem goes away when the engine is warm. My question is, do you think I need to replace the ELD, the O2 sensor, the CAT, a combination of the 3? Thank you for your articles and your help.
I would need to know specific codes and what the actual charging voltage is? Also I am old and do not know some of the slang and abbreviations that go along with texting. Please use proper English and spelling.
yo sparky i got the same problems but mine is o2 sensor and high voltage..i changed the alt at the same time this was going on.. my problem is they said its the used alternaator i installed on my own cuz t used. .but they dont under stand .. people are telin me ineed to upgrade also i have aftermarket headers.. i didnt do the test for the eld but i took it apart and seen there was nothing wrong with it..i jsut wanna no if i need to change my computer esu after all its only ELD with after market headers a used alternator with less then 100k but u no junk yards busness people lie.. wats the best ideah to do.. with out mechanic ..but im going to one 2marrow so tell me before i head wats ur ideah
I was able to replace the electronic load detector and light indicator went off when i started the engine. Thanks Sparky you’ve been a great help. The dealer quote me $299 to replace it and spent only $45 for the eld. Thanks again Sparky I was able to do it because of your post.
Sounds like the transmission is either going into limp in mode or is slipping. This could be related to the P0121 code which I believe is more specific to the TPS.