This 2001 Honda Civic came in with a multitude of problems one of which was a code P1298 stored for an ELD fault (electric load detector circuit input high). I had never had to actually test one of these before although I knew that they existed. The ELD sends a signal to the engine control computer so that the computer can adjust the alternator output in relation to power consumption. The ELD is located in the underhood fuse box. I am pointing to it with my screw driver.
To test the ELD I had to lift the underhood fuse box and remove the bottom cover. Once removed I could access the wiring for the ELD. The wire on the far right of the connector is power supply (battery voltage).
The wire in the middle of the connector is battery ground.
The wire on the far left of the connector is a five volt signal sent from the computer. The ELD will pull the voltage lower with increased system load and should vary with a change in load. For example if the blower or headlights are turned on it should drop. This particular unit was stuck at 3.81 volts and would not change with no loads or full loads applied. If the voltage had been near zero I would have had to unplug the connector and see if the five volt reference signal was being sent by the computer and wiring.
After testing and finding a faulty ELD, it was very easy to change. I removed the four adjoining phillips headed screws that held the two PAL fuses in place.
I released the latch on the harness connector and unplugged the connector.
With the wiring removed I simply lifted the unit. Slid the bar out and installed the new unit.
Below are a couple of pictures of the actual ELD part from Honda.
Sparky,
Thanks for all the great writeups! I’m hoping you can shed some light on a similar problem I’m having with my 2004 Civic, automatic. Sometimes when I try to accelerate from a full stop very quickly, my MIL will go on, and the car will not shift out of 2nd or 3rd gear (the RPMs will go very high). If I turn the car off, wait a few minutes, it will drive like normal again. I took the car to the dealer and they diagnosed P0121 Throttle Body and P1298 ELD. Is it possible that I only really have one problem, and that it is causing the other, or do you think I actually have two separate problems here? How often do these ELDs actually fail (since they are electric components and not mechanical…)?
Also, not sure if this will matter, but I haven’t changed my battery in about 5 years. Could that have an effect on these two things?
Hi Ashwini,
Was code P1289 a typo? Since you have already had the ELD diagnosed as faulty, it should be just a matter of replacing it. The ELD is inexpensive ($35) and takes about 10 to 20 minutes to change. Was the $500 estimate broken down as to parts and labor? What parts were going to be replaced?
Hey Sparky,
My 2001 Honda Civic is giving me the code P1289 and P1456.After getting it diagnosed service told me that he found ELD to be defective and Gas cap leak fuel vapor. He has estimated 500 bucks for it and I don’t want to invest that much. Can I try changing the ELD as per your instructions and how to test the ELD before replacing?
Thanks,
Ashwini
Whenever you see “Manufacturer” followed by more text, after the code number, on a scan tool it means that the scan tool manufacturer did not bother to put the actual code description into its tool. Usually to save cost.
hey sparky i have that same code on my 2001 civic , but it also says (Manufacturer Controlled Fuel and Air Metering) what does that mean ? is it the same problem or something different ? thanks and hope to get some help .