This 2003 Ford Explorer came in with several complaints; the door ajar light stays on with the doors closed and the engine running, the dome and puddle lights stay on for ten minutes after exiting the vehicle, when locking the doors the doors will lock then unlock on their own and the alarm will go off for no reason. This was pretty easy to isolate to the driver’s door ajar switch with the aid of a good scan tool. Once I found that the driver’s door ajar switch was reporting an open door no matter what position the door was in, all I had to do was confirm that it was a switch and not wiring or a computer problem.
In removing the door panel the first step is to remove the interior door handle trim panel. At the forward edge insert a small flat prying tool and release the retainers.
After removing the panel now you can lift and remove the switch trim panel assembly. There is one screw under the panel that has to be removed.
There are two screws that have to be removed from the lower edge of the door panel.
After removing all three screws lift the door panel up and towards you. Then you will need to support the panel and remove the wiring from the power mirror switch. This can be a little difficult so take your time. You will need to slide a small screwdriver blade under the retaining clip in order to release the harness connector.
Peel the left hand side of the vapor barrier back and locate the harness connector that I did not get a picture of.
Update October 21, 2011. Well, I finally got another one of these Explorers in and took some extra pictures to show the harness connector and the wires. Note the change in paint colors
Disconnect the harness connector and with an ohm meter check the resistance of the door ajar switch,two small wires yellow/black and black. The resistance should change from an open to a closed circuit with the movement of the latch assembly. If it does not change the switch is faulty.
You may also take a jumper wire and connect the small yellow/black to the small black wire and see if the lights and locks respond properly now. A closed circuit indicates a closed door and the lights and locks should now function properly. Roll a window down before doing this so that you will not lock the keys in the car.
The backside of the harness connector. I looked at the color codes to locate the two needed wires.
In order to remove the latch assembly and or the door ajar switch the lower window track will have to be removed. There are two screws at the rear of the door.
There are three screws that hold the latch in place. There is also linkage that will have to be removed. Pay careful attention to positioning and adjustments so that reassembly will not be a problem.
After gaining access remove the harness connector and twist the switch to release and then pull. To install the new switch push the switch into position and rotate until click is felt. Reassemble door and test system as you go.
GREAT post, all fixed within 5 minutes. You rock…
Jim C.
Coral Springs Fl
This was a great tip! I followed it and had no problem fixing my door. It’s so nice to not have that idiot light on all the time. Although the Click and Clack e-tape solution was doing fine, I knew what was behind it! Thanks for the post!
Sorry so long to get back to you. I would suspect a broken wire in the driver’s door jamb wiring. Do you have a voltmeter or test light? Please use the email address at the “Contact Sparky” link at the top center of the site.
Sparky – hoping you can help –
2002 Explorer XLT. My door ajar light stays on, locks don’t work at all, remote doesn’t work at all – I checked and have no power to any lead going into the power door lock switch. I checked all wiring in Driver’s Door, nothing broken. I checked the Driver’s door switch, works fine (normally open, resistance when closed). Everything else works fine, just door locks and remote that don’t work. Power to radio stays on after truck is turned off as if it thinks doors are still closed. I don’t have a scan tool to read any codes and local shop charges more than I can afford right now, especially since this is not a major issue for me st this time but just an annoyance.
You will need a scan tool capable of reading GEM and DDM codes. Most inexpensive “scanners” only read engine codes.