This 2003 Ford Explorer came in with several complaints; the door ajar light stays on with the doors closed and the engine running, the dome and puddle lights stay on for ten minutes after exiting the vehicle, when locking the doors the doors will lock then unlock on their own and the alarm will go off for no reason. This was pretty easy to isolate to the driver’s door ajar switch with the aid of a good scan tool. Once I found that the driver’s door ajar switch was reporting an open door no matter what position the door was in, all I had to do was confirm that it was a switch and not wiring or a computer problem.
In removing the door panel the first step is to remove the interior door handle trim panel. At the forward edge insert a small flat prying tool and release the retainers.
After removing the panel now you can lift and remove the switch trim panel assembly. There is one screw under the panel that has to be removed.
There are two screws that have to be removed from the lower edge of the door panel.
After removing all three screws lift the door panel up and towards you. Then you will need to support the panel and remove the wiring from the power mirror switch. This can be a little difficult so take your time. You will need to slide a small screwdriver blade under the retaining clip in order to release the harness connector.
Peel the left hand side of the vapor barrier back and locate the harness connector that I did not get a picture of.
Update October 21, 2011. Well, I finally got another one of these Explorers in and took some extra pictures to show the harness connector and the wires. Note the change in paint colors
Disconnect the harness connector and with an ohm meter check the resistance of the door ajar switch,two small wires yellow/black and black. The resistance should change from an open to a closed circuit with the movement of the latch assembly. If it does not change the switch is faulty.
You may also take a jumper wire and connect the small yellow/black to the small black wire and see if the lights and locks respond properly now. A closed circuit indicates a closed door and the lights and locks should now function properly. Roll a window down before doing this so that you will not lock the keys in the car.
The backside of the harness connector. I looked at the color codes to locate the two needed wires.
In order to remove the latch assembly and or the door ajar switch the lower window track will have to be removed. There are two screws at the rear of the door.
There are three screws that hold the latch in place. There is also linkage that will have to be removed. Pay careful attention to positioning and adjustments so that reassembly will not be a problem.
After gaining access remove the harness connector and twist the switch to release and then pull. To install the new switch push the switch into position and rotate until click is felt. Reassemble door and test system as you go.
I think with the interaction with the rear defroster switch I would drop the trim panels at the rear and disconnect the harness connector for the tailgate,that is above the headliner and see if the problem is corrected. Remember you cannot drive the vehicle with the harness disconnected due to the rear lights will not be working!!!!
Sparky, thank you for explaining this problem and solution. I have been searching for a while to try and find an answer for this specific door ajar problem. I first begin to notice that the bulb in the driver’s side puddle light was burning very dim and would not go out when I locked the door. I actually took the bulb out of the driver side mirror puddle light and this stopped the door ajar light problem. However, now when I turn the rear defroster on, the door ajar light comes on. If I press the reset button on the dash board message center, the door ajar light will go off. If I turn the rear defroster off, the door ajar light will go off. Also, when I first start the Explorer in the morning and turn the rear defroster on, the door ajar light and the interior lights will come on and I have to turn the rear defroster off to get both the door ajar and interior lights to go off. I think I will try replacing he driver door switch to see if this will cure all problems.
What do you suggest?
Thanks again for your insight.
It can be done but you will have to have a good wiring diagram, test meters and time to disassemble door panels. It may be worthwhile to pay a shop to check door positions, closed or ajar in the gem module or driver’s door module.
Sparky, what are the chances that it is not the driver door switch. Is it possible for the backyard mechanic to find out if it is another one of the switches? Thanks for all your help.
Thanks Sparky. I used this info to remove the door panel to replace a broken mirror. All went well thanks to your instructions. Like the other person said, you da’ man!!!