This 2003 Ford Explorer came in with several complaints; the door ajar light stays on with the doors closed and the engine running, the dome and puddle lights stay on for ten minutes after exiting the vehicle, when locking the doors the doors will lock then unlock on their own and the alarm will go off for no reason. This was pretty easy to isolate to the driver’s door ajar switch with the aid of a good scan tool. Once I found that the driver’s door ajar switch was reporting an open door no matter what position the door was in, all I had to do was confirm that it was a switch and not wiring or a computer problem.
In removing the door panel the first step is to remove the interior door handle trim panel. At the forward edge insert a small flat prying tool and release the retainers.
After removing the panel now you can lift and remove the switch trim panel assembly. There is one screw under the panel that has to be removed.
There are two screws that have to be removed from the lower edge of the door panel.
After removing all three screws lift the door panel up and towards you. Then you will need to support the panel and remove the wiring from the power mirror switch. This can be a little difficult so take your time. You will need to slide a small screwdriver blade under the retaining clip in order to release the harness connector.
Peel the left hand side of the vapor barrier back and locate the harness connector that I did not get a picture of.
Update October 21, 2011. Well, I finally got another one of these Explorers in and took some extra pictures to show the harness connector and the wires. Note the change in paint colors
Disconnect the harness connector and with an ohm meter check the resistance of the door ajar switch,two small wires yellow/black and black. The resistance should change from an open to a closed circuit with the movement of the latch assembly. If it does not change the switch is faulty.
You may also take a jumper wire and connect the small yellow/black to the small black wire and see if the lights and locks respond properly now. A closed circuit indicates a closed door and the lights and locks should now function properly. Roll a window down before doing this so that you will not lock the keys in the car.
The backside of the harness connector. I looked at the color codes to locate the two needed wires.
In order to remove the latch assembly and or the door ajar switch the lower window track will have to be removed. There are two screws at the rear of the door.
There are three screws that hold the latch in place. There is also linkage that will have to be removed. Pay careful attention to positioning and adjustments so that reassembly will not be a problem.
After gaining access remove the harness connector and twist the switch to release and then pull. To install the new switch push the switch into position and rotate until click is felt. Reassemble door and test system as you go.
By what you have stated, you either have wires touching in between where you are working and the door jamb wiring or more than likely the problem is in another door. The system is part of the GEM module and cannot be disabled by pulling fuses. Other functions will be affected. You can seek the help of a mechanic with a scan tool that can read GEM codes and data. This will save a great deal of time in locating the suspect door. Do not forget about the rear hatch as well when looking at data.
I tried connecting both the yellow ends to the stripped black wire and it did not seem to be working. Afterwards I cut the black wire as well and had nothing touching and still the door sensor was on, I even tried connecting the black / yellow ends of the wires for both halves that were cut and nothing seems to work! I’m going crazy over trying to fix this!! Does anyone have any idea of how I can connect any of these wires in a way that will be able to simply get rid of the door ajar light?? (disable it)
It varies from year to year. Some years you connect the two wires together. Some years you disconnect and separate the two wires (wrap with tape).
I need some help cutting and connecting the wires!! I tried this but it did not fix the problem!!
On the side closer to the switch, I cut the yellow wire and stripped it, then stripped the black wire (did not cut it all the way) and then connected the stripped yellow wire to it. Can anyone else confirm that this is in fact a working method?? And if there is any specified connections or ways to do this please elaborate??
Caveat: The following applies to the driver’s door. Others may be different.
I have a 2002 Explorer and had the same problem with the door sensor. Since I really don’t care if the sensor works, but really hate the constant beeping and dome light issues, I decided to just bypass the sensor altogether rather than replacing it.
Once you get the door panel off and the vapor barrier pulled back, there is a clipped in wire harness at the bottom left. There are five wires feeding this harness and six coming out. The yellow input wire is the door sensor. If you cut this wire and strip off a section on the black wire (do not cut it), you can then strip the yellow wire and wrap it around the exposed part of the black wire. This fools the system into always thinking the door is closed… at no cost. Make sure you either solder the new connection or securely wrap it. Then wrap the entire area with electrical tape.