This 2003 Dodge 2500 pickup came in with the complaint that the blower would work sometimes and luckily for me it was not working when it came in. A quick check at the blower motor revealed no power at the two wire connector. After looking at a wiring diagram, I did a quick test of fuse #4, 40 amp in the underhood fuse box. It was good. The next step was to check the ignition switch.
I started by removing the tilt handle from the steering column.
It just pulls towards the driver’s seat and slides off of the aluminum lever. Moderate force is needed to pull it loose.
Next there are three torx screws that have to be removed from the lower steering column cover. I think they were T20’s.
With the lower cover removed the upper cover lifts off of the steering column.
The red locking bar has to be slide out and then the built in locking tab has to be depressed to unlock the lower half of the harness connector.
At the top of the connector for the ignition switch the white slide lick has to be lifted. During the lifting process the connector will be disengaged from the switch.
The inside of the harness connector. The bottom two terminals are burnt. It looks like a shadow in the picture but it is not.
The wiring into the SRS clock spring has to be disconnected before before the screws for the tilt lever assembly can be removed and the assembly dropped out of the way.
I use a hooked tool to depress the locking tab on the top side of the connector.
Then remove the two screws that hold the tilt lever assembly to the steering column.
The tilt lever assembly positioned out of the way and slide the old switch out.
Slide the new switch in and reassemble the steering column parts.
The burnt terminals on the old ignition switch.
The four prongs on the blue terminal retainer have to be pushed in to release it from the harness connector body. It takes several steps to get it released.
Using an angled pick I removed the good terminals from the old connector and installed them in the new connector.
I know it may seem strange but I used the smallest wires in the supplied kit to replace the two burnt wires. However I added a relay to carry the load of the blower motor and now the switch just has to carry the load of the relay coil. About .5 amps.
The relay installed in the wiring under the steering column.
The new harness connector with all of the wiring installed.
To connect the relay:
I installed a new smaller blue wire with terminal attached at terminal 1 of the ignition switch. I connected the original pink/black wire from terminal 1 of the ignition switch and terminal 30 of the relay. At that splice connection I also tied in the newly installed wire from terminal 1 of the ignition switch. This three way splice can be seen at the splice on the red relay wire.
I connected the dark green wire from the vehicle harness to terminal 87 (purple wire)of the relay.
I installed a second new small blue wire and terminal assembly into the ignition switch connector at position 8. I then connected terminal 86 (yellow wire) of the relay to the new wire/terminal (small Blue wire) installed at position 8 of the ignition switch harness. You can barely see that splice behind the splice connection on the large purple wire splice from the relay.
Terminal 85 of the relay was connected to a good chassis ground.
I secured the relay to the bracket with a wire tie and installed a rubber cover over an exposed point on a mounting screw to protect the wiring from accidental damage.
Everything tied down and secured. All that was left was to trim the wire tie and reassemble the steering column and the under dash covers.
Again my reasoning for installing the relay was to let the relay carry the heavy electrical load of the blower motor. The genuine Mopar ignition switch and repair harness kit costs in excess of $200. The relay and it’s harness connector is about $40. In reflection I would probably use an less expensive aftermarket ignition switch, since I was taking the load off of the ignition switch itself anyways.