This 2004 Chevrolet Silverado came in with a faulty passenger side blend door actuator. In the last post I got you to this point. If you have not yet read that post please click here. Now that the dash cover is off and you can see the actuator, but you still cannot get to it. More things need to come apart.
Remove the wiring hold down clips from the metal brackets as shown below.
Remove the 7 mm headed screws from the brackets on the passenger side.
Using a ratchet remove the two 10 mm headed screws from the front edges of the bracket on the passenger side.
Remove the 7mm screw from the driver’s side of the cross over bracket. Remove the bracket.
Now the “U” shaped bracket on the passenger side can be removed.
Remove the 7 mm screws on the driver’s side bracket. I also remove the two 10 mm bolts on the driver’s side bracket to make sure the dash will move around freely.
Disable the air bag or SRS system according to the manufacturers directions. Then remove the two upper 10 mm bolts from the air bag as shown in the next two pictures.
Then remove the two lower air bag screws.
Note that the air bag screws are shorter than the bracket screws. Do Not put the long bolts back in the airbag when reassembling.
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Pull the orange "positive assurance clip" from the yellow connector. Disconnect the connector and remove the airbag. Use the manufacturers recommendations for handling and storing the airbag.
Getting close but more still has to come out. The silver box shown below is the vehicle communication interface module. It may not be present on all vehicles as it is related to the Onstar System.
There are three 10 mm nuts that hold the module to the brackets. They are locking nuts so they have to be wrenched all of the way off.
Remove the two 10 mm nuts at the passenger end of the dash carrier. Do Not mix these nuts up with the ones removed from the VCIM brackets.
Now remove the 7 mm screw from the backside of the right passenger vent.
Remove the 7 mm screw from the position shown below.
Wiggle the corner of the dash out as shown below.
I used a screwdriver handle to keep the duct work lifted.
I also used a pry bar to lift the duct work slightly to give myself more room. The weight of the pry bar is enough to keep the duct work up but you may want someone to hold it for you. If someone hold it for you be sure they do not use the area in the center of the opening for a fulcrum. It will break the mounting panel where the nut is for the phillips headed screw that was removed much earlier.
The VCIM can now be wiggled up and the wires disconnected.
Remove the wiring harness retaining clip from the bracket as shown below.
Remove the wiring harness clip from the cross bar as shown in the two pictures below. Lift the harness slightly to gain more room to work.
Using a short 5.5 mm socket and ratchet, remove the two mounting screws. Disconnect the wiring from the actuator before removing the screws. makes it a little easier.
You will actually need to work through two openings and use both hands to make it easier.
A magnet on a stick works real well fro retrieving dropped screws and sockets.
You can finally remove the actuator from the dash.
Free at last.
The new and old actuators. The numbers match 52402588.
If you need to buy one of these actuators please click here.
If you do not have a Tech 2 or similar scan tool to diagnose these actuators, you can do voltmeter testing at these connectors. That is a whole other post though.
It is not likely to be the control head assembly since it was recently replaced with a new one. There could be a poor connection at the junction box at the right side of the dash but the actuator is likely to be faulty. You can try disconnecting and reconnecting the harness connectors under the end panel to clear fretting (light corrosion). If you want cold air right now, unplug the actuator when it shifts to the cold position.
ok, got it where i can see the actuator. When i first turn on the key, the actuator moves to the cold air position and stays there and then it moves back to the hot position, movingthe slide temperature control does not do anything. Could this actually be the control unit? THis has happened before and the dealership replaced the control unit, i know this because the unit was unscratched old one had a big scratch in it. I dont know if they changed the actuator or not. And of course the dealership is no longer in business here. What are your thoughts?
There are a lot of If’s involved. If you remove it to manually move it you might as well replace it. If you can get it in the cold position you can unplug the actuator. The right driver’s side vent has to be removed along with the panel below it. Once you have accessed the harness connector for the actuator you have to be prepared to unplug it as soon as it moves to the cold position. Getting it to move to the cold position may happen randomly or during a recalibration procedure.
Is there a way to manually move the vent controlled by the actuator? I really dont care at this time if it works properly.It is starting to get hot in Texas and I cant take the heat blowing from the passenger side vents. Also, How can make sure it is the actuator before starting the whole dash removal? I do not have any scanners.
I am glad you were able to save time. I am 6 foot tall with X large hands and 14″ forearms. I have to take it apart to get to the two screws with 5.5 mm heads.