This 2004 Chevrolet Silverado came in with a faulty passenger side blend door actuator. In the last post I got you to this point. If you have not yet read that post please click here. Now that the dash cover is off and you can see the actuator, but you still cannot get to it. More things need to come apart.
Remove the wiring hold down clips from the metal brackets as shown below.
Remove the 7 mm headed screws from the brackets on the passenger side.
Using a ratchet remove the two 10 mm headed screws from the front edges of the bracket on the passenger side.
Remove the 7mm screw from the driver’s side of the cross over bracket. Remove the bracket.
Now the “U” shaped bracket on the passenger side can be removed.
Remove the 7 mm screws on the driver’s side bracket. I also remove the two 10 mm bolts on the driver’s side bracket to make sure the dash will move around freely.
Disable the air bag or SRS system according to the manufacturers directions. Then remove the two upper 10 mm bolts from the air bag as shown in the next two pictures.
Then remove the two lower air bag screws.
Note that the air bag screws are shorter than the bracket screws. Do Not put the long bolts back in the airbag when reassembling.
<
Pull the orange "positive assurance clip" from the yellow connector. Disconnect the connector and remove the airbag. Use the manufacturers recommendations for handling and storing the airbag.
Getting close but more still has to come out. The silver box shown below is the vehicle communication interface module. It may not be present on all vehicles as it is related to the Onstar System.
There are three 10 mm nuts that hold the module to the brackets. They are locking nuts so they have to be wrenched all of the way off.
Remove the two 10 mm nuts at the passenger end of the dash carrier. Do Not mix these nuts up with the ones removed from the VCIM brackets.
Now remove the 7 mm screw from the backside of the right passenger vent.
Remove the 7 mm screw from the position shown below.
Wiggle the corner of the dash out as shown below.
I used a screwdriver handle to keep the duct work lifted.
I also used a pry bar to lift the duct work slightly to give myself more room. The weight of the pry bar is enough to keep the duct work up but you may want someone to hold it for you. If someone hold it for you be sure they do not use the area in the center of the opening for a fulcrum. It will break the mounting panel where the nut is for the phillips headed screw that was removed much earlier.
The VCIM can now be wiggled up and the wires disconnected.
Remove the wiring harness retaining clip from the bracket as shown below.
Remove the wiring harness clip from the cross bar as shown in the two pictures below. Lift the harness slightly to gain more room to work.
Using a short 5.5 mm socket and ratchet, remove the two mounting screws. Disconnect the wiring from the actuator before removing the screws. makes it a little easier.
You will actually need to work through two openings and use both hands to make it easier.
A magnet on a stick works real well fro retrieving dropped screws and sockets.
You can finally remove the actuator from the dash.
Free at last.
The new and old actuators. The numbers match 52402588.
If you need to buy one of these actuators please click here.
If you do not have a Tech 2 or similar scan tool to diagnose these actuators, you can do voltmeter testing at these connectors. That is a whole other post though.
Will do! thanks for the heads up. Might as well change that one while im already in there. From what I have read it appears to be the same part number as the passenger side actuator… 52402588?
You have stated that the passenger side temp actuator (within the dash) is the one making a ticking sound. That coupled with the code B0424 would indicate it is faulty. If you are going to the trouble of replacing the passenger side temperature actuator, I would strongly recommend changing the fresh air/recirculation actuator as well. Yes, you will need to buy another actuator but it only adds 10 minutes to the overall job. If it fails in the near future, it will take the same two hours to get back to it. Although it is not supposed to lock a system up, I have seen on numerous occasions where replacing a single actuator will alleviate several problems. More than likely you will need to replace all of the actuators but the other two are much easier to replace and can be dealt with as problems occur.
ok will do. So you think that it would be the actuator within the dash then that needs to be replaced?(the passenger side actuator) I have one ordered already. I will replace that one and use the ac on auto per your suggestion. So it would be possible for that actuator to “lock” the system up? It was an Autel Scan tool. DOnt remember the model number. I dont have it here anymore I returned to the friend it was borrowed from.
Look for a menu item “Functions” or “Special Functions”. There should be sub menus from there that allow you to command the actuators or motors. What kind of scan tool are you using? On the passenger side, once you get to a temperature you are happy with, remove the dash face panel. Remove the right driver’s vent duct. Using long pliers and a screwdriver disconnect the harness connector to the passenger side actuator. This is a temporary solution to the passenger side actuator possibly locking the system up. You have made the mistake many owners of vehicles with auto a/c controls have made. After you have repaired your system, use the auto system as it was designed to be used. Set the vent temperatures at 70 degrees F. Drive the truck for 10 to 15 minutes to allow the system to stabilize. If you are too hot adjust the temperature down a degree or two. If you are too cold adjust the temperatures up a degree or two. Once you have found the correct temperature zone for your personal comfort, keep the temperature settings in that range and let the system work as designed. If you have the temperature set at say 72 F during the winter, The system will command full heat from the actuators and direct the airflow to the floor. The blower will just barely blow until there is enough heat in the heater core to provide comfort. Once heat develops the blower speed will increase until the cabin is warm. Once the cabin temperature has reached the commanded setting the blower speed will reduce. Using the system as designed will allow for more comfort and longer life of the system.
Im not sure how to run the bi directional scanning with the tool, borrowed it. i have the automatic ac controls, I have heard the ticking from the passenger rear, i pulled the back cover and it was an actuator ticking, i tapped it a few times and it quit for now, I have not heard it from back there again, almost 3 weeks now. I still hear the ticking from “behind the radio” when my problem occurs, not from the rear. The outside temp where i am at is in the 25-45 F range, and when it occours, I have the drivers side set to 75-80 on the feet, passenger side probably about the same, maybe a little cooler. Im not using the AC at all..Not on automatic. Rarely use the automatic.