This 2001 Buick Century came in with the complaint that the starter would not work or if it did, it would make a scrapping sound. The customer stated that the condition would go away if the hazard lights were switched on. I had a very hard time believing this but I had the customer show me and it was indeed true. I also noticed that the dash warning lights and gauges would work erratically while it was displaying its cranking problem.
I looked at data with my Tech 2 and found ignition voltage values were low. Time to get to the ignition switch wiring. I unclipped the lower black hush panel. Removed the two 7 mm headed screws and unsnapped the plastic trim panel from the lower portion of the dash. Sorry no pictures. I then removed the remaining 7 mm screws from the interior metal panel.
Then, I switched to a 10 mm socket and extension to remove the four inner bolts.
Next, I removed the torx screws that hold the lower steering column trim cover in place.
With that out of the way, I looked for the pink wire coming from the ignition switch. I checked the voltage at the switch and as you can see it was very low. The starter would not work at all at this voltage.
I cycled the key again and the voltage came up some. The starter would work at this voltage but it made a terrible scrapping sound.
I checked power on both of the red wires at the ignition switch to make sure I did not have a problem with supply power to the ignition switch. It was good. Diagnosis of a faulty ignition switch.
The next step was to remove the screws at both ends of the dash for the dash trim panel.
Two screws above the instrument cluster and pulled the trim panel loose.
Once the trim panel was fully loose, the steering column has to be tilted fully down and the shifter handle has to be placed in drive 1. The top of the panel can then be rolled out of the rest of the dash. There is some flexing involved, so be careful not to break anything.
Now that that is out of the way, the top steering column cover can be removed.
There are supposed to be two torx screws holding the top cover to the column . Sometimes one, sometimes none. With the screws removed the cover can be flexed around to release the curved edge from the steering wheel.
Then continue sliding it to the side and over the lock cylinder.
One should have already disconnected the battery but if not go ahead and loosen the 7 mm screw in the center of the ignition switch junction block and separate the connector.
Now turn the key to the full crank position and depress the retaining pin as shown below.
Pull the lock cylinder out and set it on top of the column for reuse later. Be careful not to damage the two small white wires. They are part of the anti theft system and if broken the engine will not crank.
Depress the locking tab for the key buzzer switch, rotate and remove the switch.
Remove the torx screws that hold the ignition switch to the column.
Separate the combination switch connectors from the ignition switch connector.
Then carefully reassemble with a new ignition switch with harness assembly. I need to put in a picture of the whole switch assembly.
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Thank you so much for your post. This was the issue I was having but everyone I talked said start with the “starter.” This saved me $100 in parts and who know how much in labor cost. THANK YOU for the great pictures!