1996 Nissan Pick Up, Blower Does Not Work

This 1996 Nissan Pick Up came ind with the complaint that the blower motor does not work. The blower motor is located under the passenger side of the dash. I disconnected the wiring harness for test purposes.

I installed a test light in between the two terminals of the harness connector by using a small pocket screwdriver as a probe attached to the clamp on the test light. This allows me to quickly test power and ground circuits at the same time.

The ignition switch was on and the blower switch was set to high. The test light lit up so basic power and ground are present.

I reconnected the harness to the blower motor and bumped it firmly with the palm of my hand. The blower started to work a little so I bumped it a few more times to get it working enough to test the lower speeds and confirm the condition of the blower switch and the resistor. Both were okay.

Next, it was time to remove the blower motor screws. Three phillips headed screws in all. I also pulled the vent tube loose from the blower housing.

Then I pulled the blower motor out of the blower housing.

The new and old blower motors. Time to transfer some parts

First the blower impeller. I removed the nut and then carefully removed the impeller blade by rocking it side to side , while pulling up at the same time. There was also a flat washer under the impeller that I transferred as well.

I slid the old mounting grommets out of the original blower and installed them in the new motor housing.

Transferred the vent tube.

I also installed a black caulk ribbon to the mating surface of the motor as the foam gasket was not transferable and the new motor did not come with a new gasket.

There is an arrow on the old motor indicating the direction of rotation.

There is a corresponding arrow on the new motor that tell the installer which wire to connect to battery power for the desired direction. Orange wire to power for the direction I needed.

I did a quick test to the harness to see which wire has battery power on it with the switches turned on, as in my original test. only this time my test light clamp was attached to chassis ground. I installed a new set of harness connectors and terminals. You may want to just install splicing connectors. It is easier and the terminals are readily available.

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