This 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe came in with the complaint that the air on the driver’s side would change from cold to hot while driving down the road. When it shifted to hot the customer could not get it to turn back cold. Sounds like a faulty air mix actuator to me. I checked codes and sure enough there was a code B0408 for the left air temperature actuator. I checked the commanded position versus the actual position and there was a large difference in the counts. This is only important if you have a scan tool that will access this system. There are other tricks that can be used to test that I will show later. The driver’s or left air mix actuator is located on the lower passenger side of the dash. If present the hush panel has to be removed. This one is easy because there is no floor mounted center console. If you have a floor console please see the information at this link to see how to deal with one screw.
I removed the four 7 mm headed screws and pulled the panel out of the way.
I knew I was changing the actuator, so I disconnected the wiring harness connector and removed the two 5.5 mm headed screws
Then the actuator simply pulls down. There may be some resistance if the actuator is at the full stop position.
Slide the new actuator into position, install the mounting screws and reconnect the wires. After this was done I recalibrated the actuator with my Tech 2 scan tool. If you do not have a scan tool you may disconnect the battery for one minute. Reconnect the battery and start the engine. The key point is DO NOT TOUCH the a/c controls for at least one full minute. Actually, I prefer to wait 4 minutes because I remember reading that a few years ago and the extra time does not hurt anything. After one full minute turn the ignition off. Restart the engine and check the door operation.
Proper operation can be seen in the data stream in that the commanded and actual positions are at nearly identical counts.
To do testing with a voltmeter at the harness connector you will need to test the following. Check for ignition power on the brown wire. If power is not present check the HVAC 1 fuse in the left interior fuse box. Check for a 5 volt reference signal on the light blue/black wire. All of the next tests must be done with the harness connector plugged into the actuator. The yellow wire is a low reference wire from the control head (ground, internal system not chassis). The light blue wire is the position signal wire from the actuator to the control head. If the actuator will move the voltage will change up or down depending on the movement of the actuator (between 0 and 5 volts). The dark blue wire will have basically three different voltages that are important. 5 volts is a signal to increase the door position, 0 volts is a signal to decrease the door position and 2.5 volts is a signal to hold the door position. So with that information turn the ignition on and touch the black lead of your voltmeter to the yellow wire. Touch the red lead of your meter to the brown wire and check for a reading of battery voltage. Next touch the red lead to the dark blue wire and check for either 0, 2.5 or 5 volts depending on command. You will probably need an assistant to adjust the temperature control for the driver’s side.
Something else you need to know. If you buy a new actuator make sure the part numbers match. At the time of this writing the aftermarket (non dealer) application books are incorrect. You have to buy an actuator for the passenger side to get the correct actuator for the driver’s side. Crazy but true. I cannot think of the number of actuators I have changed that have already been replaced by others. If you install the wrong actuator, it will rotate to a full stop and never move again.
This is the box that the actuator I installed came in and the numbers on the actual parts matched (52402588). The short number is 15-72971. Long number 89018365 and it is listed as the passenger or top air mix actuator. To order this part please click here.
The link in the post is still current and still the correct part. Without having a Tech 2 to work with replacing the actuator is most likely your best course of action. the only thing I can think that you may want to do is to remove the old actuator and make sure the door shaft will move with using your fingers or a pair of pliers. It should not take much force to move it. I am enclosing the address for the part here, as well. You will need to copy and paste it though.
http://store.the-electric-connection.com/15-72971-actuator-blend-air-temperature-recirculation-fresh-air-door-p563.aspx
Thanks for the donation. If everyone that asks a question would donate something I would be able to post my email address again.
Hi Sparky:
I’m getting ready to order a driver’s side actuator, and wanted to check the number and where to order from, to see if the prior posted information is still considered good.
My vehicle has a long history that we’ve discussed at length before (July/August: ’04 z-71 Sub w/ 131K miles, 7 actuators done by dealer in first 115K miles, me thinking I found the problem in the connectors in the right IP connection block, that gave me 2 years relief).
Now, however, its back, has been back for a few months intermittently and with more frequency, and recalibrating and checking the plugs hasn’t worked. So I’m going to replace the actuator because I don’t know what else to do, unless you have tell me that’s a bad idea. I don’t have a scan tool that will pick up the codes, although its had the usual suspects in the past.
Current symptoms are that it blows cold, after the recalibration works for a while, then begins to hunt, then defaults to cold.
I’m just now reading your statement about not asking questions here, sorry for that.
Thanks Sparky for your advice and guidance.
I pulled the actuator motor off and was able to easily close the door, I now have heat! I haven’t yet been out for a long run so it’s only blowing warm but that’s huge. Am researching ways to make it really crank out heat.
The new part should be in next week, I’ll get it installed and see how things work.
Sparky,
Thank you for your assistance regarding my ’05 Surburban 2500. I did brind the vehicle into the Chevrolet Dealership to have them check for codes and updates. They did not check for codes but did install a software update. The updated software did fix my problem. Thanks for steering me straight when I got “tunnel vision”.
Thank you, I will try turning the door tonight. I did do the battery disconnect procedure but may not have waited long enough.
It’s only -15C today (I’m in northern Canada) so it’s drivable.
Appreciate the help and will definitely be visiting the tip jar tonight!