This 1998 Chevrolet Malibu came in with the complaint that the turn signals did not work properly and the horn did not work. Inspecting the turn signals found that the signal was reaching the bulb but it seemed very weak. First place to start is one of the easier bulbs to get to to see what’s going on. There is a black plastic panel that covers the front light assemblies.
There are multiple push pin retainers that have to be removed. Pull the center core up and then the rest of the retainer will come out will a little pull.
There are two blade type retainers that have to be lifted in order to get the light assembly out.
You can use your fingers or if you are careful you can use a screwdriver for assistance.
With the light assembly out it is easy to remove the turn signal socket and bulb for inspection.
With only the turn signal on I noticed that both bulb elements were lit dimly and not flashing. From experience I knew this was a sign of a faulty ground.
I glanced down at the inner fender panel in front of the driver’s strut tower and this is what I saw. How lucky could I be? The ground buss assembly was not bolted down.
Come to find out the car had recently had the transmission out at another shop and the problem started immediately after leaving the transmission shop. The customer took the car back and was told that taking the transmission out had nothing to do with the lights. I detest the combination of ignorance and laziness, which is what the other shop seemed to have. The bolt for the ground had been broken off while removing the transmission and no one bothered hooking it back up. Since the bolt was broke off, I found another hole nearby that luckily was threaded and just moved the ground over and installed a new bolt.
The light is back bright and blinking, although you can’t see the blinking in the picture.
A nice simple repair for a change. By the way, the horn also is back working!
Awesome Sparky,
So far so good. The switch didn’t fail any continuity tests when i had it out and in my hand. But i decided to open it up. There was a good bit of carbon on one of the contacts that engages in both run and start. Quite a bit on the plastic casing next to it too. I went ahead and put the new one in so it doesn’t surprise me or stick me later down the road. Again, thanks a billion. I’m gonna follow your links and find you on Facebook!
I think you might be on to something Sparky,
I went to pick up an ignition switch so i could have it on hand when i take the dash apart to test the old one for continuity. Leaving the parts store, it didn’t wanna start again. I pushed in hard on the key like you said and it fired right up. I let you know how the continuity tests come out. Thanks a billion. I would have never thought of it from looking at these grossly incomplete wiring diagrams.
My first thought for your problem is a faulty ignition switch. The next time the problem returns, try pushing in firmly on the key and see if the problem is temporarily corrected. If so replace the electrical part of the ignition switch.