This repair is similar for many of the Ford trucks and vans of this era. It is very simple to do as long as the key will still switch on and the electrical portion of the ignition switch is properly adjusted. First switch the ignition on and locate the access hole for the release pin. Then using a small rod, push in on the retaining pin. You should feel it move in about an 1/8″ of an inch.
Once the pin is pushed in simply pull on the lock cylinder assembly and remove.
To install line up the notches and push the new cylinder back in and turn the key off.
If the pin pushes in but the lock cylinder will not pull out, you may have to loosen the electrical portion of the ignition switch located further down the column. I had to do this in order to remove this one and yes, I realise that I am showing pictures of removing and installing the same new lock cylinder in all of the pictures. Just the way it works out sometimes.
If you have to get to the electrical portion of the ignition switch, it is located above the aluminum plate show in the picture. Remove the 6 bolts holding the bracket on and the steering column will drop down and you will find the switch on the left side of the column. It is held in place by two nuts.
I have several ideas of what may be wrong. First check to see if the correct parts have been installed. There are usually different part numbers for tilt versus non tilt columns. If that is okay, check the adjustment on the electrical portion of the ignition switch. The last thing would apply more towards a tilt column. There is an aluminum part (ignition rack assembly) in the steering column that breaks and will cause ignition switch issues. The most common issue was that you cannot turn the ignition off to stop the engine.
I have replaced both the switch both the lock and tumbler and the electrical part but the key turns all the way over but doesn’t spring back or start the truck. The only way I can start it is to jump it of the solenoid. Any ideas what it could be ? thanks.
I was able to pull the broken off piece out of the column, using a small pair of plyers, pulling out slightly and getting a good grip, rotating and pulling, while moving the steering wheel, took 30 sec or so. Tried to turn car on with screwdriver, to no avail. Since the shaft was in good shape, I bopped on down to the Napa, and they had the cylinder and 2 new keys, read the inst on box, popped it in, turned it, clicked into place, turned on key and away she went, plow and all. We did have to cut off the “cuff” a bit, so now theres a gaping hole, but no $200 towing bill, and mechanic. Did it all for $23, and the patience of some really good neighbors. You’re the best!!!!
There should be an extension shaft on the end of a new lock cylinder. Lock to see if it is still stuck in the gear under the locking plate in the bottom of the hole. The gear under the plate has to rotate for the column to unlock. With that shaft extension removed a new lock cylinder should fit back in the hole. Be very careful if you remove the plate that covers the gear and then the gear that you note the exact locations. It cane be time consuming to get everything back in proper timing sequence.
Removing the electrical portion of the ignition switch and operating it independently will allow you to start the vehicle. Once started you may be able to move the steering column enough to get the remaining parts of the lock cylinder to turn and free up the steering column fully. If not the column may need to be disassembled and/or replaced. Be sure to use caution as you will by bypassing some safety/anti theft devices.