This 2002 Ford F150 came in with the complaint that the driver’s window goes down but will not come back up. The driver’s door uses a one touch auto down feature that makes it a little difficult to test but this one was even more difficult due to the fact that the wiring diagrams did not match the truck. I had jumped the wiring at the window motor the evening before so the customer could drive home and bring it back when he had a ride.
The first thing I had to do in order to remove the door panel was the grasp the left edge trim panel and pull it from the door.
Once it was removed I had access to the hidden screw and I removed it.
Next I removed the switch panel by lifting up on the forward edge and sliding the assembly forward towards the door jamb.
After unhooking the harness connectors I grabbed the upper edge of the door handle bezel and pulled the forward edge away from the door.
With the front clip released I slid the bezel forward to release the rear edge.
The next step was to remove the screw that was behind the bezel
After that I grabbed the pull handle and lifted the door panel up and off of its hook retainers.
With the door panel away from the door I leaned it out and reached down and removed the courtesy light from the panel. Just twist and pull.
I removed the four screws that held the speaker in place.
Depressed the latch and pulled the harness connector from the speaker.
I started pulling the vapor barrier loose being careful not to damage it.
I then taped it up and out of the way so that I could work unencumbered.
After physically identifying the wires, I determined a test sequence. I did not take pictures of the testing until after I had put the door back together. So I had to pull the switch back loose to show testing. Testing was done with a fused jumper wire and a test light.First I checked the wires to see which one had power on it with the key on. It turned out to be a green wire at position 4 although the diagram shows that it should be a light blue/black wire.
Next I checked the brown/white wire, position 8 (white/black according to the diagram) as I had traced this one back to the motor when the door panel was off. It had power on it with the switch in the up position. I next connected my test light to a power source and checked to make sure it had a ground in the down position. It did.
I then by checking the diagram and by finding which wire position I need to test I found that the red/yellow wire, position 7 (tan/light blue according to diagram) was the next to test. I tested and found power in the down position but no ground signal in the up position. This was the cause of the complaint. A faulty switch.
To further prove my diagnosis I pushed the switch in the up position and jumped terminals 7 & 4 together with a fused jumper wire and the window went up. 100% power window switch fault.
I installed a new switch and called this one done.
11 discussions on “2002 Ford F150 Driver’s Window Goes Down, Does Not Go Up”
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The next step would be to do a voltage test at the power window motor. This will help determine if it is a motor problem or a control problem. You may also want to seek the help of a repair shop that has a Tech 2 or similar scan tool to look at window data and do bidirectional testing.
Many possibilities for that condition but I would start with spraying some some silicon lubricant into the rubber window channels. DO NOT USE an Oil based lubricant. You will ruin your rubber seals. The silicone spray comes out like water and only leaves a clear residue that makes the rubber slippery again.
I have tried that in the past I don’t think that is an issue. I did forget to mention that on a rare occasion the window will function as intended but it is very rare.
Sparky, I have a similar problem on my 04 trailblazer only it’s with my passenger front window. It goes down but comes up really slow when the vehical is not running, it is alittle faster when the vehical is runnin but not as fast as the other windows. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks for the heads up on the switch. I googled and found this before I pulled my door apart. Instead of spending $50 on a replacement switch I took it apart as much as possible, cleaned the contacts with electric parts cleaner and a little rubbing and now it works again with no cash spent. Thanks and I hope this helps someone else.
Why in the world would you change the motor without testing? The passenger side switch at rest connects the two pairs of circuits together. Two wires from the driver’s switch connect to the two wires going out to the passenger motor. This happens in an inactive passenger switch. When the passenger switch is used to operate the passenger motor, it uses a dedicated power input, but the ground is supplied from the inactive driver’s power window switch. It sounds confusing and it is at times, unless you actually look at a wiring diagram.