2003 Chrysler Town and Country Van came in with the complaint of the blower operates on high speed with key on and cannot be adjusted down. This procedure will also apply to Dodge Caravans with auto a/c. The controls and indicators seemed to work normally. I checked the wiring diagram and component locator and found that the blower power module is located behind the glove box. Good place to start.
After opening the glove box there are two stops the have to be depressed inward in order to drop the box down.
The blower power module is directly behind the lowered glove box. It is held in place by two 8mm hex head screws.
After removing the two attaching screws, the blower power module can be positioned for testing.
Turn the key on and while manually rotating the blower switch from low to high you should see a voltage change between about 2 volts (high)up to about 10 volts (low) on the blue/light blue wire. It is the middle wire in the left connector pictured below. Because the blower was working on high speed there was no need to do any other testing, however if you were to have low blower or no blower you would need to test further. Check for 12 volts – on the black/orange wire and 12 volts+ on the dark blue wire in the three wire connector. If either is missing check respective fuse and ground connections. Next check for 12 volts between the blue wire and the dark blue /yellow (sometimes black as pictured below) wire in the two wire connector to the right of the pictures. If either signal is missing in the two wire connector and the three wire connector tested good then the power module is faulty. If 12 volts power and ground are present then the blower motor is faulty. Usually bumping the motor with the key on and the blower switch on high will make the motor work for a little while because it will reset the worn brushes.
Three wire connector:
Black/Orange wire should have a constant ground.
Dark Blue wire should have 12 volt switched power from the front blower relay. The front blower relay is located in the Integrated Power Module (underhood fuse box).
Blue/Light Blue wire should have a varying voltage from about 2 volts(high blower command) and a nominal 10 volts(low blower command).
Two wire connector:
Check for a nominal battery voltage reading across the two wires. Key on and blower set to high.
I removed the mounting screws to gain better access to the wiring for testing.
Be careful to keep the aluminum cooling fins away from the metal brace for the glove box. It will complete the ground circuit for the blower motor and will scare you when it sparks.
Place an insulating cloth between the aluminum fins and the brace if you want.
A good look at the blower power module.
Installed the new blower power module and all is well.
From Pat in Wisconsin
Hi Sparky,
2 years ago I read your post when my 2005 Grand Caravan with auto climate control had no fan. I replaced the power module and the fan worked for 2 months then no fan and I just let it go.
Now when the key is in the on position, the front fan blows full speed even if a/c heat in off position. If I remove blower relay, the fan stops so I put in a new blower relay but that didn’t work. So, I took some voltage readings and the results are below. It looks like I need another power module??
back probed the 3 pin connector of power module
probes on blue/white and ground = voltage 2v to 10v as adjust fan speed
probes on black/orange and ground = 0.16v
probes on dark blue and ground = 11.25v
probes on black/orange and dark blue = 0.11v
back probed the 2 pin connector of power module
probes on green and ground = 11.5v
probes on black and ground = 2.3v
probes on green and ground = 8.8v
Many thanks Sparky
You may need to replace the blower motor, harness connector and resistor. Start by removing the blower resistor and look for signs of heat (rust or bluing) on the inside. If signs of heat are evident, you may be lucky enough that replacing the resistor and connector may take care of the issue. If you have an amp meter you should measure the current draw of the blower motor. Current draw should be in the 18-22 amp range on high speed. On the lower end of the range is better. Keep in mind that dust buildup on the evaporator core can drive up the current draw of the blower motor.
i have a 2001 t & C the wires out of the controller melted (green and black) green was the one that melted black was ok (these are the wires feeding the blower motor) i replced the ends turned on the ignition and blower works great at all speeds i held the green wire in my fingers and after about a minute it was super hot again..changing fan speeds doesnt seem to change thetemp. it just kept getting hotter to the point of metling again (i shut it off as that moment arrived. any suggestions motor or controller this van has a maunal control
thanks in advance
Sparky you are doing a fine job here. My experience was just as you described. The first replacement resistor I bought was bad but the second replacement seems to have done the job.
Thank you very much for your expertise.
Sparky you saved me about $200 and earned me about 200 “Good-job-honey” points. I appreciate your help.