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ID Status Date Year Make Model Transmission Type A/C Controls Public/Private
#13188 Closed 2008 pontiac grand prix public

I bought this car from my daughter in law. She said one day the blower motor started blowing out smoke and stinking. I’ve replaced the blower motor, blower resistor and harness. Still no blower. Broke out the test light and electrical meter and found no power at the blower or resistor. I then removed the climate contrils from the dash and started poking around with my test light. I have one wire with constant power, one with power when the key is on and one that barely lights the test light. No matter what buttons or dials i turn i cant get my light lit on any other wires. I do hear the blend door moving, the a/c engage and the rear defrost relay click. I’m at a loss and not sure where the next step is. Is it changing the climate controls??? But i dont understand how no wires would light my light but i still heard things move. And though all that still no blower. Is there a relay or fuse somewhere other than the 10amp fuse in the passenger dash?
Sparky

There is a blown fuse in the underhood fuse box. It should be listed as the Batt Main 4 fuse at position 30. It will be one of the larger J case 30 amp fuses. Looking at the wiring diagrams there are a total of at least six fuses directly involved in the HVAC system.

The reason you could not find any power on many wires is because most of it is very low voltage or is pulse width modulated on isolated circuits. The reality is that except for checking fuses you should throw the test light away. It can harm the electronic systems in modern vehicles and does not provide much information. In most cases it is the wrong tool for the job. I hate even saying that because I spent thirty years using a test light and a set of wiring diagrams to fix virtually anything electrical on a vehicle.

What are the other fuses? That particular fuse is still good. I’ve even taken other 30amp ones and moved them around. This whole situation has me totally confused. I was thinking that maybe controls were bad, which they could be for the fan but everything appears to be in working order except for the fan. I’m really scratching my head on this one…..
Sparky

Look for a poor connection in the x210 connector behind the radio area. Number 3 in the attachment.  The only other spot I can see where there might be a problem with power on the red wire would be in a connection under the underhood fuse box.
Sparky

Here is a diagram that lists the main fuses.

so i checked the rest of the fuses and everything appears to be good. in hopes i got the right harness the only wire that showed any voltage was a small gray wire. the larger red wire in the harness had nothing.

Sparky

Okay there are two different styles of X210 connectors one has two terminals. One red and the other black.

The other style has a twelve cavity body as shown in the attachment and is pinned as described below. If you have identified the correct connector and the red wire has no power on either side of the connector body then you will need to look at the harness connectors under the fuse box in the engine compartment.

X210 HVAC Harness to Instrument Panel Harness (C67)

Pin Wire Circuit Function Pin Wire Circuit Function
A 0.35 BK/WH 1551 Ground A 0.35 BK/WH 1551 Ground
B — — Not Used B 0.35 BK 150 Ground
C 0.35 PK 739 Ignition 1 Voltage C 0.35 PK 739 Ignition 1 Voltage (L26)
0.5 PK 739 Ignition 1 Voltage (LS4)
D–E — — Not Used D–E — — Not Used
F 0.35 OG 1040 Battery Positive Voltage F 0.35 OG 1040 Battery Positive Voltage
G 0.35 GY 8 Instrument Panel Lamp Supply Voltage G 0.35 GY 8 Instrument Panel Lamp Supply Voltage
H 3 RD 442 Battery Positive Voltage H 3 RD 442 Battery Positive Voltage
J 0.35 BK 1450 Ground J 0.35 BK 150 Ground
K 0.35 WH 1038 HVAC Class 2 Serial Data K 0.35 WH 1038 HVAC Class 2 Serial Data
L–M — — Not Used L–M — — Not Used

i’ll look more into it later this week, gonna be out of town for a couple days. i really appreciate all your input, it has been very helpful.

are these the wires i need to be checking or do i need to open the box up more?
Sparky

Yes they are. You should see a few bolts on the top side of the fuse box with 7 mm heads. You will need to unscrew those and then pull the connectors from the underside of the fuse box so that you can examine the internals.

Do I need to unplug all or just the top behind the j-fuses? I currently have just the one unplugged and have a prong with no power. The prong looks like it does to the lower red wire that’s closest to the fender
Sparky

Easier to just unplug them all and take a look. If nothing shows I will look in to connector pin locations for further testing.

So I have them all unplugged, block out laying on my bench. Connectors and back of block look good. Nothing looks like it’s gotten hot or made a bad connection. Is there a way to open the block up so I can see better between the front and back?

Got the issue fixed. Thank you so much for your help!

thanks

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