My car is disabled after a spark from an aftermarket auto starter happened.

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ID Status Date Year Make Model Transmission Type A/C Controls Public/Private
#15429 Closed 2007 Toyota Camry le public

I was moving my poorly done autostarter that came with car around and an exposed wire touched some metal and sparked.
I checked fuses and relays all are good so far. My speedometer item gets no power except to the blinker, headlight, door open, hazard, indicators. All else is dead. No speed. No heat. No gas. No tachometer.
Car wont start at all. I replaced the starter. Replaced fuses and relays. Still no luck. the speedometer items was replaced. I havent checked the multi fuses, after i read a post about those fuses i think they are fine.
All of the cars electricity is fine. Including radio, head lights, high beams, blinkers, brakes lights, windows, inner lights, horn.
I had some one remove all of the auto starter from the car and now its just original wires.
Car still will not start at all. Not even trying. It dose click in the relays when i turn the key.
Please please help. Theres no way this car is a completely dead due to thus minor spark

Sparky

I will need to know which engine is in your car, 4 cylinder or v6 and type of transmission, auto or manual? Also, do you remember if the ignition was n or off when the spark happened?

4 cylinder. Automatic. 4 liter.
The ignition was off and keys were not in the ignition when the spark happened.
The cars computer wont even communicate with computers.
The dlc plug is not working. Unable to see what modules arent working
Sparky

Since we know the instrument cluster is not working I would recommend rechecking the fuses related to it. The fuses need to be checked to make sure that they are both good and properly powered.

The involved fuses are the MPX-B and Dome fuses in the driver’s side underhood fuse box. They should have power at all times.

The Gauge 2 fuse in the driver’s side interior fuse box located at the driver’s side of the dash. It should have power on it with the ignition on.

Do any of those fuses have anything to do with the car being able to start?
As in dose the car need communication with the cluster to get the engine started and moving.
I was told that some power inserted into the starter plug where the relay is under the hood didnt start the car either.
What other fuses dose the car use to actully send gas to engine and signal the physical starter to get going?
Is it possible that a ecu is fried? Should i try just replacing all the fuses in the car. Even if they all look as if they arent burned out?

Sparky

It is very possible that one of them may.  When faced with a large problem I have always found it best to divide the knowns from the unknowns by dividing and conquering.  We know that the starter does not work and the gauges do not work. We don not know the reason for either one bit there is a good chance that they are related. I looked at the diagrams and found that it is a much simpler starting place to find out if the fuses for the instrument cluster are both good and properly powered.

Keep in mind that you will need to check the fuse legends on the fuse box covers or in your owners manual to identify their locations. Using the legends you need to also make sure that those or any other listed fuses are not missing.

Okadokes now if i take the fuses out i need to check if they are solid or snapped. Solid is good snapped is broken. Other then that i need one of those testers that connect to the car and light up if it has power.
When i check these fuses with that tool should i have my keys in the ignition or not?
Should the keys be turned to start?
Sparky

You are correct. Solid=good, Snapped/broken= bad.

Yes, you will need a test light or voltmeter to test for power. The first two fuses I listed have power at all times. The the ignition would be off.  The last one only has power with the ignition on.

Alroght mr sparky here we go.
I changed my starter, multifuse thats connected to alternator, and battery.
The multi fuse was popped.
Pit new one in. Checked all fuses. All is good.
Except car still wont send power to the starter or the ignition wire.
I byoassed power to ignition wire with a wire from battery to main black wire. This lit uo the instrument cluster and allowed car to crank. No fuel pump noises or turn over.
Some say the ecu may be fried.
Some say its damn near impossible to do this.
Ive changed the fuses you poonted oit in other questions for the fuse box and multi fuses. Still no good.
Ive check the fuses 3 times. How do i test the relays fully while they are out of the car with a voltometer?
How do i test if the ignition item is still good. I watched a video saying that could have fried as well.
Sparky

I am a firm believer in dividing and conquering larger electrical problems without wasting time or money on unneeded parts. So…. As stated earlier for the instrument cluster not working portion of your problem.

“The involved fuses are the MPX-B and Dome fuses in the driver’s side underhood fuse box. They should have power at all times.”The Gauge 2 fuse in the driver’s side interior fuse box located at the driver’s side of the dash. It should have power on it with the ignition on.

“Yes, you will need a test light or voltmeter to test for power. The first two fuses I listed have power at all times. The the ignition would be off.  The last one only has power with the ignition on.”

With that said I need to know if those three fuses have power on them or not at the correct ignition switch positions? I am more than happy to assist you but I have to ask that you keep it simple and don’t deviate from tests that I outline.

All the fuses have power and continuity.
I checked all the fuses with key in ignition as well as key out of ignition.
When the key was out i noticed the fuse not having power and then having power when i turned the key.

Sparky

Can you better describe what you did in this quote from your earlier reply?

“I byoassed power to ignition wire with a wire from battery to main black wire. This lit uo the instrument cluster and allowed car to crank. No fuel pump noises or turn over.”

This would seem to contradict that the fuses are all good and properly powered. If accurate it means that there is a broken wire between the fuse and where you applied power. So I would need need to know the color of the wire (including and stripes or dots) and if you can see what components it attaches to?

I took a primary wire that i have. Put one end to positive terminal on battery. Other end to a thick solid black wire from the ignition modual.
This allowed power to flow from there to everything except fuel pump. I was even able to use the key to crank the engine. Just no gas flow. I had some one help by pass the fuel pump woth power from battery as well. They used a device to connect to the wire and then sent power to it as i sent power to the starter relay spot. As another human turned the key. Still no turning over just cranking and fuel pump hissing.
There is a break some where between the battery and junction box under the drivers dash i belive.
Im not sure how to check the fuses other then taking them all oit and replacing every single one.
Ive taken a voltometer, turned it to the audible choice of coninuity.
Each fuse i touched with the 2 prongs would cause the meter to beep.
Are there any more relay or fuse boxes in the car im not seeing?
Sparky

That black wire gets it’s power from the ST/AM2 fuse in the under hood fuse box. Go back and recheck that fuse. I believe it is part of the inner gang fuse assembly. Can you upload a picture of your underhood fuse box assembly so I can see if I can identify it for you?

My photos are to bug to share to you for some reason. They are 2.5 mb or 4 mb. The st/am2 fuse is part of the multi fuse

Dome fuse no key

Mpx – b fuse no key
Sparky

I can’t see the fuse element at the top of the picture but I am going to assume it is good and you have tested it with either a meter or a light. If not please do so. My gut feeling from experience is that when the wires were repaired from the auto start system removal something went wrong. I would be looking for the same heavy black wire that may not have been spliced back together properly. If you find it, pierce the insulation on either side of the splice terminal to confirm it is properly powered. Check it with the ignition on so that it will have a load on it.

Guage 2 fuse no key

Guage 2 fuse with key in. Sitting at crank. With power bypassed to ignition wire
Sparky

You are using your meter incorrectly so your test results are not accurate. Please rotate the selector knob to 20 dc volts. It is located at about 10  o’clock. I am assuming you have your black lead attached to ground somewhere.

Oops!! Shall do this.
And i did not. Only ground connected was the battery terminal.
Other then that just had the meter connected the way its supposed to be i believe
Sparky

When you do get back to testing attach the black test lead to the negative battery terminal. Then probe both test points of the fuse with the red test lead. Record your findings. When you move to testing the fuses under the dash you can attach the black lead to a piece of clean metal that is either part of the body or attached directly to the body. If you have any doubt use a jumper wire so you black lead can attach to the negative battery terminal.

Also test the voltage of the battery (red lead to positive battery terminal).  It should read a nominal 12.6 volts. If it does not, recharge the battery since low battery voltage can adversely skew all tests.

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