Is there a reset or recaliberation procedure for the HVAC on my 2010 Toyota Tundra ?

ID Status Date Year Make Model Transmission Type A/C Controls Public/Private
#15033 Closed 2010 Toyota Tundra TRD Double Cab public

I forgot to turn the key off a few times, the battery would go dead and I had to use a charger to get it started. After one of these times I noticed that there was about a minute delay before the HVAC controls worked. I asked at the shop and they said they looked around but did not see anything and I should not worry about it. A couple of months after this, I would turn the key to start the engine and it felt like nothing was going to happen, then all of a sudden it would turn over and start. I took it in, they said the battery was shot, they replaced it. Fast forward about a month and now my defrost does not work. Took it in back in, they said a B1483 code came up but they didn’t know what that meant and could not figure out the problem. (I do not take my truck to a Toyota Dealership). A friend of mine looked at it, checked the fuses, they were all good. He took the panel off under the dash on the passenger side and had me play around with the HVAC controls. If I turned it to defrost, he could see the blend door open, as soon as I turned on the fan, it shut. If I had it set for heat with the fan on and turned it to defrost, I could hear the fan motor speed up but still no defrost. I played around with some of the procedures I found for re-calibrating other brand vehicles, Ex: taking out (10 Amp) AC fuse under dash on driver side, turning off key, waiting, putting fuse back in, turning key back on etc. After reinstalling the fuse and turning the key on, I could hear what sounded like a motor running and blend doors opening and closing. When I started the truck the defrost still did not work. Is there a re-calibration procedure for this truck or do I have to take it in and have the actuators or servo motors checked ?

I am not sure why it did not show on my question but the truck has manual HVAC controls, it is 4 WD and has an automatic 6 speed transmission. Thank you !


I have been looking into your 2010 Tundra concern for a few days now and have found no references from Toyota for a recalibration procedure. What I have found is that there is no code B1483 for the HVAC system. There is a code B1443 for an  air outlet actuator failure. This is commonly referred to as the mode actuator which would involve the defrost function.  Your inspection of the actuator working on the passenger side of the vehicle is likely inaccurate since the involved actuator is located on the driver’s side of the HVAC case. To add to the dilemma correct test procedures involve using a compatible scan tool that can access the HVAC system.


I will try to answer each item.

1. Yes, you need to make sure the shop has a capable tool and mechanics/technicians to properly utilize it.

2. Toyota’s service information refers to it as an air outlet actuator. The rest of us call it a mode actuator.  A “blend door actuator” is also referred to as a temperature control actuator and it controls the door that adjusts the temperature of the air. The actual parts are sometimes the same part number but they are attached to different doors.

3. The actuator is considered an electrical part but many times it is a broken plastic gear inside the actuator that breaks. There can also be broken door shafts and linkage arms that would be solely mechanical repairs. This is where inspection and testing come into play.

4. Low voltage can cause many electrical parts to fail and should be avoided if possible. Typically a battery should be replaced about every three to four years regardless of how it tests. At least for a daily driver.

5. There are all types of scan tools with a wide array of functions. Obviously  a true Toyota tool would be best.  I would suspect that your shop has a fairly good tool since they could read the fault code in that system. There is a reasonably good chance that it can also read data and perform bi directional control functions.


There is a long shot that you could have a condition that we refer to as logic lock.  What can happen when there is erratic voltage supply is that the computer’s logic modules can get scrambled. It is a fairly simple repair but there are some risks as well.

Since it is a Toyota product the doors need to be closed, the hood latch need to be closed with a screwdriver or other similar tool so that the vehicle believes the hood is closed. There may also be a push button switch on the edge of the hood that needs to be overridden. After the vehicle has sat in the above condition for at lest 15 minutes both battery cables need to be removed and the cable ends held together for a full minute.  The battery cables can then be reconnected to the battery. Allow the vehicle to sit for a few minutes and then start the engine. Do not touch anything. Just let the engine run for about five minutes. Turn the ignition off for at least one minute and then restart and check the system operation.  Hopefully this will correct the issue.

Now for the bad news. When this procedure is done it clears all learned memory in most if not all modules. This means that the idle speed may be higher or lower than normal. The transmission shift points will revert to factory settings and may seem harsher for several hundred miles of driving. The radio and clock settings will be lost. The radio anti theft code will need to be re entered if applicable. The auto power window, seat and mirrors may have to be relearned if applicable.

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