| ID | Status | Date | Year | Make | Model | Transmission Type | A/C Controls | Public/Private |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| #10907 | Closed | 2009 | chev | colorado | public |
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i have a problem with the hvac blower motor in my vehicle. i looked at the 2008 and your explanations and have tried everything. i have power to the motor in the brown wire,but it still does not work. I removed the motor,and hooked two jumper wires to the motor and it spins fine. qi am the second ownwer and it looks like this motor has been replaced once before i got it as it is not a gm part number on it anywhere.Itapoears that there may have been an issue with one wire in the connector behind the kick panel that someone has repaired. i have also cleaned up all elec ground locations. The two wire connector to the motor, is the brown wire a hot one,and the orangeish coloured one a ground? |
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The orange wire does supply ground to the blower motor. It is a switched ground. The ground originates at the G106 location attached to the inner fender panel and behind the air cleaner assembly. From there it goes to the blower switch in the HVAC control head. It leaves the switch goes through the X203 in line harness connector above the blower case and near the recirculation grill intake. From there it goes to the blower resistor and finally to the blower motor. If the blower motor does not work on any speed including high the problem most likely is at the G106 location. The secondary location would be at the X203 connector. Lastly terminal “B” of the X2 harness located at the rear of the HVAC control head. I recommend checking the ground at the G106 location first. If it is good return to the blower motor and check the voltage on the orange wire at the blower motor two wire connector with the ignition on and the blower switch set to high. If voltage is present work your way up to the X203 in line harness connector and check the voltage on the orange wire on either side of the connector. If no problem is found there continue on to the blower switch. G106 location below.
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the one behind the air cleaner i have relocated to easier access,and mounted all the wires with ring terminals to a ground block i added there. I have also noted the orange wire that is at the motor plug, and the harness plug heading back to the plug at the kick panel, does not appear to be the same or is maybe where it should be is the one i think has been tampered with….the plug at the kick panel, do you know what position that wire would be in the plug? the one that has been tampered would be thus…with the connector mounted to the kick panel, the wire that is closet to the rear , and the row closet to the drivers side…is the one that has been tampered with on the kick panel connector. I s that the position the ornge wire should be in there? because that is where a funny looking very small silver not copper wire is. it is not solid ,but very few stands, and wrapped in tape no insulation. |
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when you refer to terminal B , at the HVAC control head,are you referring to behind the switches on the centre portion of the dash? should I remove them to check regardless? Im this far into it now, might as well eliminate as many possibilities as i am capable of … |
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The orange wire at the blower motor runs between the blower motor and the blower switch with a tee that connects to the blower resistor. It does not go through the connector behind the right kick panel. The black ground wire that attaches to the G106 location likely does go through that connector. The “silver” wire may be a factory shielding wire lead but I would need you to upload a picture of it so I could tell for sure. Testing is much easier than disassembly and general inspection. Also if you start moving things around without testing the problem could temporarily go away and make repairing more difficult. |
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I am still unsure of where Terminal ‘B’ at the X2 location is. Do i need to remove the switch controls in the dash to see it? |
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Yes |
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ok so I am at the switch and there is awire in the B slot in the plug into the switch, is that the ground wire you refer to that comes from the inner fender behind the air cleaner.? i get 12.6 volts testing the brown motor wire when i ground the test device to the vehicle. If i touch that wire in the B socket should I get 12.6 volts? because right now i get nothing….if i ground to all four wires at the firewall by the air cleaner, i get 12.6 volts with each of them individually…could this then possibly mean the wire from here to the switch has been compromised? and needs replaced? |
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sorry typo…i mean 14.6…the ground wire to the switch is good . i unplugged it and probed the ground,to check if it was ok, the brown wire at the motor read 14.6 again, when hooked to the B slot in the plug…when i plug it in , there is nothing coming into the other wires nor is there any sign or reading at the resistor…the harness wires leaving the switch going to the resistor…show nothing. Would this mean the switch is not working at all? it appears that it should be replaceable? should i replace it to try that? |
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i found the problem…everyting was good…except the plug in at the switch,the B POSITION WAS NOT GRONDING THE SWITCH WHEN PLUGGED IN! I found this by wiggling the plug on the switch and it would suddenly work then stop. I then removed the plug and diligently with a fine pick…closed the gap on the B position connector so that it firmly gripped the prong on the plug it is now working better than ever. Im guessing that between this end of the ground wire and the end in the fender behind the aircleaner, both were a problem….needless to say its solved! one last query, is it advisable to replace the resistor even tho it appears fine in the name of preventive maintenance and it happening at an inopportune time? or is it truly if it aint broke dont fix it issue? |
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Okay you are jumping around too much. When checking for a faulty circuit ground you have to start by attaching your multimeter black lead to a known good chassis ground. Even if you have to rig something up in order to connect directly to the battery negative terminal. For this test everything needs to be connected electrically(no harnesses disconnected). The ignition has to be on and the blower switch set to high. The engine does not have to be running. All testing has to be done by backprobing the terminals. Under the above conditions if you test any wire/terminal on the ground side of the blower motor and there is voltage present you have a problem. You have to do this systematically starting at the orange wire at the blower motor. Again if voltage is present that means that the ground signal is missing. Proceed to the blower switch and test the orange wire at the back of the blower switch (terminal E). If voltage is present check the black wire (terminal B). If voltage is present on the black wire at terminal B proceed to checking the voltage at the black wires at the G106 location. You will have to pierce the insulation of each of the black wires while the ring terminal is still grounded to the inner fender. If at anytime along the way the reading changes to zero or near zero you now have a ground. The problem will be somewhere between where the voltage changes. For example: If you have voltage on the orange wire at the blower switch terminal E and you have no voltage at the black wire at terminal B then the blower switch is faulty. If you have voltage at the orange wire at the blower motor two wire harness connector and no voltage at the orange wire at terminal E of the blower switch then there is a problem at terminal G of the x203 in line harness connector above the blower housing. If you have voltage at terminals E & B at the blower switch and no voltage at the wires at the G106 location there is a break in the black wire somewhere between the two locations. |
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Glad you found the problem. Keep in mind that at some point you will want to replace the switch and the harness connector at the same time to insure it is repaired. Heat damage can rarely be overcome in the long term by limited cleaning and tightening. As far as the blower resistor question goes my recommendation is to do a close visual inspection. If there is any sign of heat discoloration on any of the terminals or on the plastic around the terminals then they should be replaced. If everything looks like new I would leave it alone. If you have picks and skill you could consider tightening the spring tension of each individual terminal. |
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I am going to order the harnesses switch and resistor. I did carefully do all the connections on the switch one, and altho im not seeing heat sign on the resistor, I will do it. The switch makes sense now as i have had work done on the radio and an upgrade on the Onstar phone that requires hardware replacement…so this plug has probably been plugges and unplugged numerous times as the Onstar phone was a nightmare..had the vehicle in 6 times…I must thank you, this old guy has learned alot through this job, and amongst this solved another issue with a relay back by the fuel tank, that was going to cost $1300 to repair parts and labour…I dropped the tank..very dirty ground connection, AND a vent line pinched and plugged with mud…nomore relay clicking on top of tank and it fills normally again….all codes cleared and have stayed off….sometimes asking questions makes one think logically and think thru problems accordingly..knowing where to look was something your assistance is well appreciated….john may |
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You are welcome… Sparky |
