fan blower not working & ac doses not turn on

ID Status Date Year Make Model Transmission Type A/C Controls Public/Private
#15112 Closed 2006 chevy express 3500 dual wheel public

I have bought this van with not knowing there was certain problems. The blower does not work so I changed fuses , then more fuses. then I change the blower motor, then relay . I read somewhere that it could be my ignition switch . I cannot for the life get it off the shield under the steering wheel. I used a 20 torx and no luck. I see no screws when I look up there . The tool goes in about 3″ . So I moved on and found someone else said it could be the hvac control panel , cause at the 3rd prong it get 6 Volts at the 4th prong it gets 12.3 volts . I also notice that when I turn on the AC the engine idle does not die like my other vans.
it does seemed to have vacuum at the vacuum tank

Just the other day my ABS light came on I did not get it scan yet. This vehicle is not road worthy yet so I do not drive it


I would recommend to begin testing at the power and ground wires at the blower resistor harness connector.  Continuous ground on the black wire, constant power on the red wire and ignition switch power on the orange, yellow, tan and light blue wires a the blower switch is turned. Initial testing should be done with the harness connector disconnected. Carefully inspect the connector for signs of heat damage.  See the attached wiring diagram.

wowza , you have shown more in one paragraph then paying for chiltons online service. spending 6 hours and getting no where . I now feel i am making head way and your wiring diagram is second to none . I tested the red/ power wire through the ground and i get 12 volts . now when i test all the other colors from that harness i get no power at , orange , yellow,tan, light blue wires. i checked the connection there and nothing. so what is next ?


The ignition needs to be on and there will only be power on one of the four remaining wires at a time as the blower speed is adjusted. If there is no power check the HVAC fuse number 10, 20 amp in the under seat fuse box.

Well, of course, I’ve changed fuses at one of the first things I did I even changed them again. Also the ignition was definitely on and there’s only power coming through the red. And through the black I even checked the post that the fuse are on to make sure there’s power coming through each one of the post after I pulled the fuse out. I’ve been racking with this for over a week and I have possibly 15 hours into it already. Someone tells me that it’s the ignition switch, but I cannot get off the cover. I don’t mind changing parts if they’re only 20 $30. Any ideas of how to get that? Shield off I’ve tried screwdriver. I tried a Torx number 20 that doesn’t seem to be any screws up in there. Or any other advice and how to go further with the electrical Thank you.

My guess is you are not looking at my 1st post of what all work i did so far. some repeating it 3 or 4 times. I changed all fuse at least 3 times and 2 relay. i know how some times stuff even brand does not work. so any other direction or are also stumped . I understand that the car is not if front of you makes much harder.


I would like you to test for ignition power at the HVAC fuse. Replacing the fuse without testing for power does little good. If there is proper power at that fuse and the fuse is good there is no need to go into the steering column. Of course if you prove out that there is no power then the next step would be to check at the ignition switch.

As far as the steering column covers go, GM states to remove the steering wheel first. Most of us do not do that and just wiggle and twist it apart. The top cover needs to be removed first. There are usually no screws  but it does pay to look first. See the attachment.

Ok gotcha , I have a possible problem that I will need to tend to 1st. When looking at the front fuse box I notice the ground all rusty.
I seen it before but since wipers ,lights and so on all worked . I did not think to much about it. What I did today was I tested the red wire coming being the power to the black rusty wire & I got no reading . Until I took the lead off the ground wire & put it to the bolt on the body then I got a ready of 12.3 . so tried to loosen up that nut and it was so rusted that it just broke off . now my guess is I will have to run to the junk yard and get a new front fuse box. any advised onto that project would greatly appreciate it.As far as the cover for steering wheel I seen two videos that both guys used a torx and the other was phillips . but when I look up the hole I see no screws. there is a chance I do not need to go there. I will replied onto what happen once I put on another fuse box. Thanks again


Could you upload a picture of the fuse box issues so I can see it?

Hello there , I have changed the front fuse box . The reason I changed it . The negative wire was rusty and when I check the positive to the negative with a meter. I would not get any reading. When I went from positive to a fender bolt . It gave a reading of 12.3.
When I went to take off the negative wire the post broke off
I had go to a junk yard and get used one.
Once I installed everything back I checked the meter again and was dumb founded when again I got the same results from the negative post to the positive post. But for cheese and crackers I try the blower and it worked
I then checked the ac control panel. I have found that all the controls work from defrost to the floor. Not sure what really fix the blower and air conditioner working it’s definitely not what I thought. I have tried to upload the pictures of the rusted bolt on the post but it’s too big to put on your site

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