Ac

ID Status Date Year Make Model Transmission Type A/C Controls Public/Private
#15376 In Progress 2005 Chevy Tahoe public

Alright, I have a2005 Tahoe with rear ac 4.8 liter that I’ve been fighting with for 3 days. Added refrigerant because would only blow cold for half an hour than turned to hot, than went to multiple forums and said could’ve been compressor, condensor, and accumulator, changed all 3 refilled refrigerant and still blowing warm to hot air. No leaks in line either. Mind boggled, any other ideas suggestions.

Also my accumulator doesn’t get cold

Sparky

Does the compressor clutch lock in and turn when the a/c is switched on with the engine running?

Yes. You can hear it run also, 2nd compressor I’ve put in due to the first one defective

Sparky

The accumulator tank does not get cool or cold? Did you replace the orifice tube? Does the rear a/c get cold?

Didn’t replace orfice tube if that’s the little filter thing in the line yet, rear ac doesn’t get cold either

Sparky

Assuming the compressor is engaging and turning and the refrigerant charge level is correct then the front orifice tube and the rear expansion valve are both clogged and will need to be replaced. Can you describe any symptoms or noises that occurred with the original compressor that lead you to replace it?

Are the cooling fans turning on with the compressor head pressure?

Pressure correct on refrigerant, clutch engages smoothly, fans kick on when supposed to. You think the orifice would cause it to not become cold because the accumulator doesn’t get cold or make condensation.

Sparky

A severely restricted orifice tube would have little to no refrigerant flowing through it so there would be no “cooling effect”. If the front orifice tube is severely restricted then the rear expansion valve would also be restricted. That is why I asked why the old compressor was replaced. If it was locked up or very noisy then there is a fair chance that the orifice and rear expansion valve are plugged.

Speaking of pressures, what are the high and low side readings at idle, 1500 rpms, and 2500 rpms?

I don’t know your experience level but pressure has little to nothing to do with having the correct refrigerant charge level. That has to do with weight. I haven’t looked it up but normally a dual evaporator system holds around 2.5 to 3 pounds of refrigerant.  How many cans and of what weights did you install? Did the refrigerant cans also have oil in them?

 

My bad meant refrigerant level is where it’s suppose to be. Changed compressor because it had a loud nasty sound that was getting worse like a rattle. Than went to forums and tried condensor, than accumulator, just did orifice tube, see if this works. As for Experience level when it comes to ac none whatsoever. Mechanically inclined can do mostly anything external not internal. Hope this works because I’m stumped

Just read you said 2.5 pound to 3 on refrigerant. I was going off the gauge that came with refrigerant. When I dumped a full one in seems like it’s getting colder now. Will update shortly. Ty

Sparky

I just checked the specifications and it holds 2.7 pounds or 43.2 ounces.  So if you are using 12 ounce cans you will need to install 3.6 cans of refrigerant  to the system. I strongly recommend vacuuming the system out before charging.

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