| ID | Status | Date | Year | Make | Model | Transmission Type | A/C Controls | Public/Private |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| #15543 | Closed | 2011 | Cheverolet | Silverado | public |
 |
I’ve got a 2011 Silverado LT that is experiencing issues with the A/C on the drivers side only. Passenger side comes out very cold (35 degrees) but the driver side is just ambient air (72 degrees). Occasionally the drivers side does start off cold but diminishes quickly. I was looking to possibly replace the drivers side blend door actuator, but wanted to see your opinion first. I have an infrared thermometer that I leave in the truck for when the issues arise. If I shoot all the way to the back of the drivers vent it is very cold, however the actual air coming out is not, opposed to the passenger side. This leads me to believe the door is shut and not allowing the “A/C” air to come through but is allowing the outside air. If I can get it to work it is on recirculate but of late have not had much luck. |
 |
It sounds a little more like the refrigerant level may be low. A few simple tests are: Does the air get hotter if the temperature setting is adjusted to full heat? Does it return to moderately cool again after the setting is readjusted to full cold? If the answer is yes to both the refrigerant level is most likely your problem. With a cold engine in the cool part of the day does the driver’s side seem much cooler and then warm as the engine temperature rises? Again, if yes to both the refrigerant charge level would be suspect. At the firewall, under the passenger side of the engine compartment you will find the accumulator tank and two aluminum lines that enter the firewall. Are both lines cold when a cold engine is first started? Do they both stay equally cold as the engine is run for several minutes? If yes to both of these questions then the refrigerant level is not the likely cause of the problem. Does the smaller line feel much cooler than the large line after several minutes of the engine running with the a/c on? If the smaller line is much cooler than the larger then again the refrigerant charge level is suspect. If we don’t get compelling data from the above observations/testing I would suggest removing the driver’s temperature door actuator and turning the door shaft with your fingers to see if you can make the driver’s side air as cold as it should be.
|
|
|
Unfortunately, I had the system evacuated and recharged and the issue still persists. It has to be above 80 degrees outside and the A/C running for 10+ minutes. It is noticeably cooler on the passenger side, and warm on the drivers side (I also have thermometer I use to check). |
|
|
What is the actual temperature variation from one side to the other, all four vents? Does manually moving the door correct the condition as I mentioned in the last reply. |