| ID | Status | Date | Year | Make | Model | Transmission Type | A/C Controls | Public/Private |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| #16786 | Closed | 2009 | Toyota | Camry | public |
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Hello. I had to replace the interior fuse box because condensation had gotten into it and corroded the fuse connections and actually burnt several of the pins and connectors. After getting the replacement box in I have a few things not working. The engine will turn over but will not crank, the headlights come on as soon as the battery is connected and will not turn off without disconnecting it, and the dash lights do not work. I found a blown 10a fuse in the outside fuse box, replaced it and the dash lights worked but, now have stopped working. I have checked every fuse in both boxes but no fuses are blown. Thanks for any help! |
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Were any of the terminals in the connectors that plug into the fuse box corroded or burnt looking? Can you upload a picture? Have you looked to see if there may be a stray connector plugged in or fully seated? |
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Yes, I had to replace several terminals and and one entire connector that was partly burnt and melted. That was going to be my next step, to start going through all the terminals, checking connections. I will download some pics later. |
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Pics of the damaged fuse box. |
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More pics |
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One more |
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Did you get a new fuse box or a used one? I ask because I think that fuse box has a computer built into it and you have to be sure it is a matching part. Hardware and software. |
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I got a used one. All of the terminals matched up as far as number and pattern. It was missing one of the blue relays that the original had though. I wasn’t aware of the computer. |
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Any chance that you have the VIN from the donor vehicle? There is a TSB for 2007 and 2008 Camry’s for a condition where the daytime running lights stay on that requires changing the underhood fuse box to correct. Not saying this is the problem but it is worth looking at. See the link to the TSB below https://f01.justanswer.com/GreggLathem/e18716eb-034e-4f6d-9d1d-33ddf903f075_Camry_TSB_0377_08.pdf |
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No, I got it on eBay. I will check part numbers when I get a chance. Just a little more information, I have pulled every relay in the cabin and engine bay fuse boxes and the headlights still will not turn off without disconnecting the battery. |
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The headlight and DRL relays are internal to the underhood fuse box. |
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another diagram |
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Thank you. Is replacing the fuse box the only way to fix it or could it be related to the cabin fuse box possibly not being the correct one? |
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That my friend would be the $64,000 question. |
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I would recommend removing the headlight fuses in the underhood fuse box one at a time to determine if the low beams or high beams are stuck on. You may want to check and see if the dimmer switch works for switching between the two settings. |
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I know what you mean! Lol Thank you for the information you have provided. |
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Are you still there? There are tests we can do to find the answer to your headlight problem. See my last reply. |
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Yes. I thought I had replied to you this morning, must not have sent it… Here is what I discovered when pulling the fuses, the low beams are what is stuck on. The high beams do not come on at all. The dimmer switch doesn’t switch between low or high beams. The fog lights work as they should by the dimmer switch. Also found that the parking lights stay on as the low beams do. |
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Also, the high beams fuses are not blown. |
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Checking to see if my replies are getting posted. |
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Oh man, I am sorry. Dropped the ball on that one. People have found out I am working on cars again at select shops and I have been overwhelmed with work. Give me a day or so to regroup and I will be back on your issue. |
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No worries man. Thanks for the reply |
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Okay, looking over the two diagrams I supplied earlier the only place you can really do any testing would be at the pink wire that goes between the interior and underhood fuse boxes. It is terminal D9 at the underhood fuse box and terminal D3 at the interior fuse box. It is supposed to be a switched ground signal. Meaning that when the lights are commanded/switched on the computer applies a ground signal to activate the relays in the underhood fuse box. When the lights are off there will be 12 volts positive on that wire. I am assuming that you will find a constant ground present (near zero volts) if so find a section of the pink wire that is easily accessible for repair and cut it in half to see if the lights go off. I am also assuming that you have the tools, supplies and skills to splice the wire back together in a professional manner. Can you upload a couple of pictures of the front and rear of the old fuse box? I want to see if the body control module is built onto it or not. |
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Ok, here are the pics of the old fuse box. I will the check wiring went I get a chance and let you know what I found. |
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Okay. In the second image there is a white recessed plug near the top. That will be part of the body control module. I would recommend taking your time and trying to open that box up to see if the module will be removable or if it is apart of the fuse box. The reasons for taking your time are that you do not want to damage it and you also want to make sure you can remove the one on the replacement and reinstall yours in a completed assembly. There are slots around the edges that look like you place a small screwdriver or pry bar into, to release locking clips. |
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I’ll give it a try and let you know. |
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This is what I found investigating the pink wire. There were 2 pink wires coming off the interior fuse box so, I figured I may have crossed up the 2 while splicing in the connector I replaced. When I switched the 2 wires, the low beam lights now switch on and off as they should. The high beam lights still don’t work however and the parking lights still stay on unless the battery is disconnected. I realized also that the power windows and fan blower will work without the key being turned on. I haven’t been able to get the old fuse box apart yet. |
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Well, It sounds like you may have more crossed wires. Some of the things that Toyota does when there are multiple wires that are the same color is that they will add silver, white or black dots along the wire or they will make them distinctly different in gauge size. |
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That’s what I’m thinking also. The 2 pink wires both had 1 gray stripe on them. There was also 2 light green wires with the 1 stripe so, I switched them. The day lights came on like the low beams did, the low beams wouldn’t come on unless I moved the dimmer switch to high, then both the high and low beams would come on. I switched those wires back but, that condition still exists. While I had the green wires switched, I heard some arcing under the dash and smoke. I disconnected the battery. I’m not sure where it was coming from but, now when I connect the battery, the emergency flashers stay on. I’m afraid that the condensation that damaged the fuse box also is affecting other connections under the dash. |
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I have been looking through wiring diagrams to try to figure out what the green wires go to and what may have been affected. Have not had much luck. So far I have found a couple that go back to the headlight system, the starting & charging system and the shifter interlock. |
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I appreciate you looking. I’ve been looking and trying things but, nothing has changed any of it. |
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Trying to upload pictures of BCM so we can identify the harness connectors. Can you identify one of the more troubling connectors so I can see if I can find a terminal and wire color chart? |
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The IC connector ( 3rd from top on left side) was the connector that was burnt. I replaced it with the connector that came with the fuse box I bought. I didn’t realize they came apart so I replaced ID along with it. The #8 pin was the one that burnt. I also spliced a new pin in #2 on the IK connector and #8 and #1 on the IL connector that was corroded. I included a photo of the burnt area. |
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I have been looking through my data bases for the pinout diagrams for the connectors at the junction block and the BCM. I have not found anything yet. I suspect that if they are available, you would need a direct subscription to Toyota’s service information platform. The system I use is supposed to be a link to that system but it seem to be lacking in the specific information you need. |