This 2009 Chevrolet Silverado came in with the complaint that the a/c was blowing out hot air on the driver’s side of the dash.The vent temperature was 140°F and the outside air temperature was 97°F in August in sunny South Carolina. I told the customer that I would not be able to get to it until the next day. He said “Okay” and tossed me the keys. “I can’t drive it like that, call me when it is fixed”. The next morning I start of the diagnosis and found a code B0413 stored for a fault with the driver’s side temperature door actuator. No big surprise here. The replacement of the actuator is made easier than in past models with the redesign of the center console. Now there is a panel that will unclip and can be moved out of the way.
Having more room in this area makes removing the 3rd screw that holds the hush panel in place much easier. I used a 7 mm deep well socket on a 1/4″ ratchet with a flex head.
I have a couple of bushings that I keep together and slide up into the recessed hole for the screw. It makes placing the socket on the screw head much easier for both removal and re installation of the screw.
Replacing the actuator is pretty cut and dry. One harness connector with a thumb latch securing it to the actuator and two 5.5 mm headed screws attaching it to the HVAC case. I used a medium length 5.5 mm socket and the same 1/4″ drive flex head ratchet.
The old actuator. The replacement part can be found here.
I have been working with a new scan tool for me, the Autel MaxiSys Pro and it has one step in the recalibration procedure that I really like. After entering the HVAC system the “Special Function” button is available.
Within the “Special Function” section “Actuator Recalibration” is available. This is normal for most professional grade scan tools.
As one proceeds through the routine, instructions are given and command buttons made available.
Down to the actual “Calibration” button.
Here is where things are different compared to other scan tools I have used including the GM Tech 2 scan tool. There is an actual progression bar…
… to let you know that something is really going on and where in the procedure you are at. If you read one of the earlier screenshots it stated that the procedure could take up to 40 seconds which is standard for most post 2003 vehicles. During this time one hears the blower speed changing and the air flow directions moving about but always a little unsure of whether it is complete or not.
Now with this tool there is no more guessing or looking at a clock.
After following the last instructions to turn the ignition off and check for codes the system is clear of fault codes.
Looking at the data for the left temperature door you can see that the actual versus commanded counts are equal at 233 counts.
I know it may be a minor thing but having that extra feature sure is nice. Other things that I like about this scan tool are increased programming functions in both software programming and settings within user programmable modules. I was able to disable the Global Window setting on a 2005 Ford Mustang GT. On top of that the scan tool operates on a fast Android platform in a convenient wireless tablet platform. I look forward to seeing what else this scan tool will allow me to do in the future. A big thanks to Matt and the rest of the team at Advance Auto Parts for making this tool available and affordable to a small shop such as mine.
I look forward to being able to expand my testing abilities with this scan tool, the Autel MaxiSys Pro. After all my motto is to “stop guessing and start testing”.
11 discussions on “2009 Chevrolet Silverado Driver’s Side Air Stuck On Heat”
I know exactly where you are speaking of. I did have a small one there but these little guys took the enhanced approach and wanted some heat and actually tried to burrow through the large rubber gasket through the firewall. They probably started right where you mentioned. And yes that is exaclty correct about hard reset. So much information is out there on the internet but it doesn’t always provide the minor details. Completely off subject; I’m starting to get the infamous GM wheel bearing squeak. There are so many options and prices available but I can’t seem to locate the mechanics that make one bearing better than another. Would appreciate any thoughts. Thanks again.
I am an electrical guy and am not overly familiar with your wheel bearing squeak issue but my preference on replacement parts would be ACDelco, Timken, Moog and SKF. I would also replace the hub assembly instead of just the bearing.
I’m really new to this site (2 days). I’ll take some pics and post them. Don’t really know how to do that. It seems factory. It just seems like the C67 option code is rare. I bought the truck from the original owner. She wasn’t the type to modify it. I’m very familiar with the vehicles of the age and know they are a an electrical nightmare.
Click on the “My Account” button in the menu and then scroll to the bottom of the new page. Find the “My Questions” section and then click on the “Open a Question” button in green and click on it. Continue to follow the prompts from there. You do have to be signed in using the user name and password that you created.
There used to be and probably still are companies called “upfitters” that take brand new lower end vehicles and add options to make unique new vehicles. American Luxury Coach used to be a popular on in the south east.
I have 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 4.8L Crew-Cab (C67) manual hvac system without dual zones. I’m having an issue with hvac system. I cannot get the ambient temperature sensor to work or the actuators to work. I’ve replaced the blend door actuator and the temp control actuator. I’ve also replaced the ambient temperature sensor. I even swapped out the head control. I’ve tried pulling the fuse to reset the actuators exactly to procedure. I’ve tried to reset the ambient temperature sensor by holding the recirculation and ac button and also drove over 30 miles. I also tried resetting the body control module. When I took it into the mechanic he told me the only code that showed was the ambient temperature sensor failure. I’ve tested the old and new sensors with a heat gun and both tested fine. I tested both actuators and one of the two is suspect but the two new ones tested fine. At this point I know if I take into a shop they will charge me for everything I’ve already tested. Any direction would be helpful.
What kind of reading do you get on the display for outside temperature reading? Does it show a temperature reading, SC, OC or ICE? What was the code that was read for the ambient temp sensor? Check for a 5 volt reference signal on the Green/black wire and ground on the Green wire at the ambient temp sensor with the sensor disconnected. Check for ignition 12 volt power at the brown wire at the actuators.
Thanks for replying so fast. I do have a 5 volt reference signal for the ambient temperature sensor on both new and old one. I do not have a brown wire at the actuators. On the recirculator door harness: I have a Grey with just under 5 volts, a purple with no voltage, a yellow with .01 voltage with ignition off, a .03 with ignition on (???), a green with 2.5 voltage, and a pink with 1 volt..on the temp control actuator, a Grey wire 4.97 , blue wire 4.58 , yellow wire .03 ,white with black swipe 2.5 volts ,pink with 1.04. I didn’t test the actuator plug under the driver’s knee panel yet. Just as a reminder my ac system is single zone manual. I only have three actuators. Only one for temp control. I can’t seem to locate a wiring diagram for the manual for the C67 control panel. Hope this helps.
Your wiring colors do not match up with a factory system so unless you have a mild case of color blindness I suspect that you have an aftermarket system installed in your truck. How about moving this over to the “Ask a Question” section of this site so you can upload some pictures of the original actuators and control panel. Your mirror displaying “ice possible” is also a clue to a non factory system.
Sorry, forgot to mention it says “ice possible ” on the DIC. My model doesn’t show navigation or actual temperature. As far as the code number, I’m not sure. The guy at the garage just said ambient temperature sensor. Thanks again.
Problem solved. It turns out that the main wiring harness was an appetizer for a family of mice. Their feverish quest to get out of the cold led them to completely shear 5 wires and do damage to a few more. I started to investigate continuity to the ambient temperature sensor and discovered from the control module to the wiring to the sensor had a break. The power going to the actuators was also compromised. A few really good points for anyone else investigating an HVAC issue on these trucks.
1 ) It’s extremely important to refer to the option code label located in the glove compartment to obtain the correct testing and resetting procedures. These vehicles have an array of minor differences in features and wiring configurations.
2 ) An important footnote to the resetting procedure using the removal of the HVAC/BATT fuse is only to recalibrate the actuators. BUT, your actuators have to be working. If they are not moving at all this procedure is useless. You either have a bad actuator or, as in my case, a wiring issue.
3 ) The “hard reset” procedure of holding the ac and recirculator button does not work in these model years
4 ) Before wasting time and money replacing actuators they can simply be tested by taping wires to a 9 volt battery. Place the actuator plug side facing you and to your left. Touch the positive wire from the battery to the last pin on the right. Touch the negative to the 3rd pin from the right and the actuator will turn clockwise. Touch the 2nd and 3rd pin simultaneously with the negative wire and the actuator will turn counterclockwise. The ambient temperature sensor can simply be tested using a heat gun or hairdryer. Set your multi meter to ohms Touch the ends of the sensor. As you apply heat you will see the value change.
I’d like to give a big thumbs up to this site and the people involved with it. Beyond being very knowledgeable they are very quick to respond.
You did not mention it but I would assume the damaged wires were under the underhood fuse box. It seems GM designed an irresistible mouse home there.
The “hard reset” your refer to is actually the “instant update” for the outside air temperature (OAT) reading and it is only available on Auto systems.