2008 Chevrolet Silverado, Driver’s Power Door Lock Does Not Work Part Two

This 2008 Chevrolet Silverado came in with the complaint that the driver’s power door lock does not work. I had already repaired the problem with the driver’s door lock switch not working at all. to see that repair please click here. Since the switch was now working properly, the next step was to check the door lock actuator. This means removing the door panel. The switch and pull handle were already removed in the last article so the next step was to remove the manual door lock knob. There is a small locking plate that has to be pried out slightly.

Then the knob will slide up and off the rod.

Next the panel behind the interior door handle is removed as shown below.

There is a 10 mm headed screw behind the panel.

There is a semi circle extension and a peg that will only allow the trim cover to install in one direction.

There is another trim panel behind the armrest pull handle and i is removed as shown below.

Two more screws with 10 mm heads.

The door panel then has to be grasped allow the edged and puled to released the push pin retainers. Be careful to support the door panel as there is a cable that connects the interior handle to the door latch mechanism.

The retaining tabs have to be pushed in  as I am showing in the next picture. Of course you have to work upside down and backwards in a hole that you have to approximate the position of the tab that has to be depressed.

Once the tabs are pushed in the cable housing will release form the handle assembly.

Then rotate the inner cable through the slot to align with the slot in the handle. Then the ball can be removed from the socket.

The moisture barrier/sound deadening panel will have to be pull from the rear half of the door. Do not tear or damage the panel as it is important to the life if the door panel components.

The harness connector for the door latch/actuator assembly removes by lifting the burgundy colored bar and then sliding the connector from the latch assembly.

I check power across the tan and grey wires that I am showing in the next picture while activating the power door lock switch. The wires that I am referring to are the ones that are closest in the picture. I state this as there are more than one set of tan and grey wires in this connector. Knowing that the ground and power signals were present told me that the actuator in the latch assembly was indeed faulty

To remove the actuator the three mounting screws have to be removed.

The most difficult part of this repair is removing and installing this “E” clip that holds the linkage to the door lock cylinder. In retrospect I think it may have been easier to remove the lock cylinder from the exterior door handle.

Once the mounting screws and internal linkage is disconnected the actuator can be removed from the door. It does take a little maneuvering to get it past the window regulator. Speaking of which I did remove the attaching nut and bolt that holds the rear leg of the window regulator to the door. It gave me the extra 1/4″ of room I needed to get may hand on the “E” clip.

The old latch assembly with the linkage rods attached. I had to transfer the linkage rods from the old actuator to the new one on the right side in the picture below.

These two plastic plugs were removed to get better access to the “E” clip.

I had to look through holes while using long screwdrivers to remove and install the “E” clip.

I did use a telescoping magnet to keep from losing the “E” clip when I was removing and that worked quite well. However when I was trying to install the “E” clip I dropped it into the door. I had to magnetize an old hacksaw blade in order to retrieve the “E” clip from the bottom of the door.

Another one fixed.