This 2000 Ford Windstar came in with a driver’s power window inop. I did a quick test and found that the motor was bad. The quick test consists of turning the key on with the engine off. Then move the switch for the window in question up and down. While doing this look at the lights on the dash. If they dim slightly with each push of the switch it quickly confirms that the motor is getting power and ground in both directions. If it only dims in one direction more than likely the switch is faulty.
Anyways I knew the motor was faulty so I started removing the door panel. First I lifted the switch panel from the door. Hopefully you can see the spring clip that holds the panel to the door.
Next I pulled the interior handle trim plate out of the door. Pry the forward edge out and then slide the whole thing forward.
There are two 7 mm headed screws at either end of the interior pull handle.
There are two more screws along the lower door panel edge.
Next I unsnapped the upper triangle shaped cover from the door.
One more screw behind that panel.
Now the panel will slide up and off of the door. Make sure to disconnect the courtesy light from the panel.
Carefully remove the the foam insulated moisture barrier from the door. Just pull it a little at a time until it pulls loose.
Now we can see the motor, kind of. The red and yellow wires connect to the window motor. The nut is one of the fasteners for the motor and the other two bolts are behind the metal panel. Thankfully Ford almost always puts dimples in the panel to let mechanics know where to drill in order to remove the screws.
I started with a small drill bit and worked my way up to a half inch bit. The hole needs to be large enough for a 5/16″ or 8 mm socket to go through.
The holes are now large enough and I have removed the two screws. Next I removed the nut.
Then I loosened the stud so that the motor would come free. The stud stays in the hole.
The stud has a torx head as shown below.
I lined the stud up with the appropriate hole in the replacement motor and snugged it up. I left it loose enough so that I could rotate the motor around to line up the other two screw holes.
With everything back in place I vacuumed the metal shavings out of the inside of the door and sprayed some paint on the exposed metal.
I put the remaining parts back on in the reverse order.
Great job detailing everything. When you’re 67 you need detail and simplicity…..thanks again
Have your supplier recheck the application. The Cardone book should show two motors. One with a plastic housing and one with a metal housing.
What type of motor is used as a replacement. I have a Bosch motor. I bought a Cardone but it does not have the same plug.
You did not state the year of your Windstar but some of the ones in the 1990’s had to have the regulator and motor updated to correct the sticking problem. Regardless if you do not want it to happen again try to keep the system from fully tightening all the way up or down. You are correct the foam liner does not have to be fully removed it can be lifted in the lower, forward corner and taped back to get it out of the way.
On my Windstar, the motor was jammed against the regulator gear but tested fine once removed. When replaced the window functioned normally. I don’t know if the jam can be cleared without removing the motor. The foam liner need not be removed completely for this repair.