This car has an intermittent no start condition with the security light flashing. Checked codes and found code B2960 stored. The code is for a valid but incorrect passkey signal. Now there are several different things that can cause this code but the most common is a failing passkey sensor which is part of the ignition tumbler kit. Some of the others are a faulty Ignition Switch, Body Control Computer and poor connections in the wiring harness. Because this problem is usually so intermittent there is not much real testing you can do that will result in a clear answer. I have found the only practical thing to do is to look at passkey voltage with a Tech 2 and gently wiggle the wiring some at the ignition switch and the BCM to see if there is any problem with the harness. Also look at passkey voltage while switching the key off and on. It should be about 5 volts when you initially switch the key on and then drop to a value higher than 0 and lower than 5 volts. Normally I see anywhere from .78 to 3.9 volts. If I see no other problems I always change the ignition tumbler kit and install a new ignition switch as well. If one is failing the other will not be far behind. I have seen plenty of these ignition switches fail without a passkey fault so I replace both as a rule.
With that out of the way this is the what you have to do to change the switch. Drop the tilt steering column to the full tilt down position. Remove both of the dash end caps and remove a screw from each end. Start pulling the trim panel from either end until the clips release. If it does not seem to want to release check for any extra screws that may be retaining the panel. If none are found pull harder but please be careful as panels can break.
After the trim panel is released you will have to disconnect the switches. The hazard switch needs the center tab depressed while you pull the harness connector from the switch.
The Traction control switch needs the center tab lifted slightly while the harness connector is pulled from the switch.
You will also need to remove the lower panels. There and a coulpe of retaining screws and a retaining pin or two. After all retainers are removed pull the cover towards the driver’s seat.
Disconnect the trunk release switch if present and now you will find a metal panel.
Remove the attaching screws and place aside.
Next you will need to remove the two 10mm headed screws that hold the switch assembly to the dash.
Next pull the switch down through the opening in the bottom of the dash.
With the key off release the locking tabs and pull the two main harnesses from the ignition switch. Make sure the key is off, it will save programming time.
Next turn the key on and depress the locking tab for the shifter interlock cable and pull the cable out of the switch.
Next depress the metal locking pin that hold the tumbler and sensor assembly into the ignition switch, rotate the key and pull the assembly out of the ignition switch.
Disconnect the sensor wiring harness by depressing the two side locking tabs and pull from the switch.
Install the new ignition switch and then install the new tumbler and sensor assembly.
I have another post for assembly of the tumbler kit. Please click here to see that post.
After the ignition switch and tumbler assembly are back together turn the key on and reinstall the shifter interlock cable. Then Make Sure The Key Is Off and Then Connect The Two Main Harness Connectors. Again this saves programming or relearn time. Now attempt to start the engine. Do Not be surprised if it does not start. Leave The Key ON and Wait about ten minutes or until the security light stops flashing. You may have to repeat this process up to four times in all before the system will relearn the new sensor value. The closer the new sensor value is to the original the quicker it will relearn. On some rare occasions you will have to use a Tech 2 and reprogramming software to teach the system the new value.
Sparky,
Not sure if my last comment(s)went through. Anyway, I’m right back to square one after replacing the ignition system (tumbler/sensor & female side), and cleaning/reseating plugs at BCM.
We’ve also incurred a new symptom and that is that now the door locks are hinky. After locking the driver door it “unlocks itself.”
Thoughts?
Cheers,
Frank
Sparky,
Update: :>(
When we got home (after picking my wife up from work), everything seemed to be working OK; however, I noticed the door chimed (when exiting) without the (new) key in the ignition, which never happened before; of course the interior and headlights were on, as they stay on a very short time (normally short) when you get out of the car, and my presumption is that perhaps that is a programmable feature that got reset in the “relearn procedure.”
In any event, one of the “tells” before replacing everything that the car was going to flash the lights In the message center) and chime was that the “remotes” didn’t work. So, curious about the chime, I went outside and hit the remote (unlock) and it worked then I got in the car, pressed the lock button, just to see if it was working OK and “nothing!” I started the car, and I was right back to where I started with the flashing, “security” . . . “battery” . . . “service engine” accompanied by the “chime” when the battery light flashes on. Arrrgh!
Just for S & G I checked the battery (without a load) and it seemed OK.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Frank
Sparky,
To be clear, the problem was never the “car not starting” it was the flashing lights and the chime in the message center.
That aside, I kept trying the relearn, and the battery got low (it’s been in the 20’s here lately). I hooked my battery charger and then the car wouldn’t start, meaning the “passlock was working.”
I continued with the long relearn, and voila! The car started and so all seems OK!
I’m going to leave the dash off for a couple of days to make sure all is well.
Cheers,
Frank
If the engine cranks and runs a relearn is not needed. Every now and then a new tumbler kit has the same value as the last learned tumbler. Nothing else needs to be done as far as relearning.
Sparky,
OK, installed cylinder or tumbler assembly with key. Was expecting the car “not to start”; however, it did. Initially, there didn’t seem to be a change.
I turned it off and on a couple of times to see if it would die . . . but it kept running–then drove it around the block. Even though the car would start, I attempted the relearn (10 minute version) procedure. I’m not sure if this happened before the relearn or after but now, “when running” the battery light “doesn’t flash” and the annoying chime is gone. The “security light” flashes 3 times then pauses (then goes to “oil light,” but I think that’s legit as we’ve traveled recently).
I am now attempting the “longer relearn” even though the car is starting.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Frank