On this 2005 Cadillac Escalade I had to replace a faulty driver’s blend door actuator. Ironically it is mounted on the passenger side of that dash and requires removal of the lower hush panel. If there is no floor mounted center console there is no problem with removing and installing this panel. If there is a floor mounted center console, the screw over the transmission hump in the floor pan is a little difficult to remove but nearly impossible to install.
I have fought with this issue for sometime now and finally decided to come up with a better plan for installing that screw. The solution seems to be to make the recessed hole smaller by installing an insert of some kind. In this case I used a starter bushing. It was handy and worked well. The hole needs to be reduced enough so that the screw will not go into the recessed ring at the outer edge of the hole.
This bushing measures .975″ OD, .76″ ID and 1.126″ in length. I am fairly sure that a short piece of thick wall PVC pipe or rubber hose would work as well. Maybe these measurement will help you find something laying around in your garage that will work for you. .
A little bit of weather strip adhesive on the hex. I do mean just a very little bit. I had to remove some of the excess from this one. Just enough to make it stable in the socket.
Insert the bushing/spacer. Place the socket with screw up into the recess. Use your free hand to pull the hush panel back slightly towards the seats. Then screw it in. It took me two tries to realize that I had to pull the panel back some.
On the third try it went in perfectly. I am pretty sure I will be able to do it on the first try next time. Somehow I managed to line everything up just right to take a picture of the installed screw.
This repair will apply to all GM full sized trucks and suv’s from the 1999 new body style to the 2007 classic series that have this hush panel and the factory floor mounted center console.
I used this tip and found it helped. I used a piece of 3/4″ pvc and wrapped some masking tape that I had rolled with the sticky side out to help hold the pipe up in the hole. I would also add to start with the screw nearest the passenger door as it has no slot.
Rick,
How did you get yours out? I have tried an extension with a universal joint and cant seem to get that screw out for the life of me. I sure don’t want to have to take the console out. Any advice?
Shergenr,
I used 1 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-J4765-4-Inch-Flexible-Extension/dp/B001HWE7WW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469412551&sr=8-3&keywords=1+4+drive+flex+extension
Thanks Rick. I ordered one like that, but it came in a set. It ended up not being flexible enough to do the job. I did finally get the screw out using the deep socket 7mm and a lot of patience. In fact I got it started (could hear the ratchet clicks), but after I had it most of the way out, I couldn’t get it to turn with the ratchet. I ended up just forcing the screw out with a good bang from my hand on the panel. I would like to meet the sadist that designed it that way!
As to replacing it, I think rather than even attempt the spacer trick, I’m just going to use a piece of velcro and replace that screw all together …. I may have to screw a plastic washer onto the blower housing to give it more surface area on which to stick the velcro, but I know this I will never have to screw with that screw again!