| ID | Status | Date | Year | Make | Model | Transmission Type | A/C Controls | Public/Private |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| #14072 | Closed | 2004 | Chevrolet | Avalanche | public |
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No heat – passenger side. Normal mode switching defrost/vent/heater/etc. Recirculation unknown but assumed OK. Has B0229 and B0424 codes which return almost immediately after clearing them. Also has B2961 but that’s just Ignition key alarm which I know does not work on my vehicle. Checked for corrosion in right IP junction block terminals – all appear clean. Checked for shorted wires on metal brace underneath glovebox – seems fine. Interested in doing what diagnosis I can (without a Tech2) before pulling things apart. If it happens to be a controller, that’s much easier than the right temp actuator. So I figure setting the controls to either 60° or 90° should force the acutuators to their extremes. Attached is what I got with a volt meter at the IP junction block at the two temp settings. Note these are all voltages using the low reference as the ground. Can you please comment and add any testing you think might be useful? Thanks, Les Myer |
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Note this is dual zone automatic temp control |
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Going by your description and voltage chart you should plan on replacing the passenger side temperature and recirculation actuators. When the HVAC control head sets a code in goes into a stall mode for that actuator and the default command voltage is 2.5 volts. If you need to get it to the heat position you can jumper the actuator motor using a 3 amp fused jumper wire. You can use the following article as a guideline but compare the wire colors and locations to the wiring diagram for your truck to make sure they are in the same positions before jumping. |
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Hey thanks much! I had seen video of moving the actuators by hot wiring them, but never made the jump to doing this at the IP junction box. Duh!! So setting a code defaults the control to 2.5v. So apparently the reset is necessary before will start working again. PS i gave $10 by Paypal last week just based on your write-ups for actuator replacement. I’ll keep this open for now. Thanks again. |
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If it sets the code at key on the system will stall and the voltage will be seen as 2.5 volts. If it does not set the code at key on the system will attempt to control the actuator for at least two minutes. Longer if no code resets. Thanks for the donation. All is appreciated. |
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Could not hot wire right temp or recirculation door actuators at right dash junction block. Used dash cover removal tutorial – worked great. Both inner a-pillar trims were (for lack of a better description) fubar’d and glued into place. Found a pair on Ebay in correct color with Bose tweeters for $70 – oh well. Looked over my dash and the tutorials for replacing the two actuators and decided to do a cut and remove the duct method. Cut the duct upwards carefully with a sawzall through the left passenger vent hole and also cut the short piece connecting the right defroster vent and the duct. Was able to leave the air bag and communications module in place. Removed the radio, u-bracket, un-clipped the antenna wire, and laid it out of the way. Took out the screws holding the right side of the duct in place and it came out to reveal both actuations sitting there with easy access. Replaced actuators and checked operation – works fine – no codes anymore. Stuck foil duct tape into place on bottom/front/rear of left duct, replaced right duct, installed duct screws, and then pressed the tape into place on the right part of the duct (followed by another piece of foil tape over the top. Reversed all for installation. Now just waiting for the a-pillar trim to arrive, but I have heat on the right side!! |
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Thanks Much!! |