This 2004 Volvo XC90 T6 AWD came in with the complaint that the passenger front power window does not work. It is in the full up position and when the switch is tried in the up position it bumps up and flexes the door panel. Sometimes in the down position it will bump slightly but not actually move any distance. The customer informed me that the door had recently been repaired from an accident.
The first thing that I had to do was figure out how to remove the door panel, so that I could do some testing. The trim panel with a speaker that covers the mirror mount was easy to unsnap from the door.
I assumed that there would be a harness connector under the foam panel.
There it is. The locking tab has to be pushed in before the harness connector can be removed.
The connector slides out after the lock is depressed.
I used a plastic pry bar to lift each side of the door pull handle.
I just had to lift it slightly on both sides.
So that there would be enough room to slide it in at the horizontal parting line.
The cover will then lift out of the way.
I removed the two torx headed screws that hold the panel to the door.
I had tried earlier to pull the edges of the door panel loose and it would just barely budge. However after the two torx screws were removed the rest of the panel unsnapped quite easily. A firm pull all the way around the edges and the door panel fell off. I would recommend preparing yourself to catch it before it falls drastically and causes damage.
Tilt the top of the panel away from the door and release the door handle cable. There are two latched that have to be spread apart. Then lift and pivot the cable from the handle.
In the picture below you will see the passenger door module. It is a mini computer for controlling door functions.
I disconnected the harness shown below with the larger wires and grey connector. I had already looked and a wiring diagram and found that the large red wire is the main power input to the PDM. It has continuous battery voltage and is supplied through fuse number 6 in the driver’s door fuse box.
The large black wire has battery ground on it at all times. The medium sized Violet and Red/Black wires go to the power window motor. I used two fused jumper wires to perform the next step. One fused jumper was connected to the Red wire and the other to the Black wire.
Remember I used two fused jumper wires with a total of four leads to do this test. I connected the wires as listed below. The window went up and down when I commanded it to using the sequences below.
Up = Red Connected to Violet and Black connected to Red/Black
Down = Red connected to Red/Black and Black connected to Violet
Since the window motor actually worked in both directions I surmised that either the motor position sensor or the PDM were faulty. I had to do some research.
My research found that the system may just need to have the upper and lower limits relearned. Volvo refers to an initialization procedure. It is recommended to use the Volvo Factory scan tool to do this but I was able to come up with the following procedure. It involved locating the proper fuse in the driver’s interior fuse box. A small screwdriver or similar tool inserted into the slot will allow the panel to be removed.
As mentioned fuse number 6 powers the PDM and it is the one we will be working with. The legend on the inside of the panel confirms that fuse number 6 is indeed for the PDM.
It also shows us the location of fuse number 6 in relation to the fuse box.
I am grabbing fuse number six with my pliers. This is in preparation of the following procedure.
The window that is being initialized has to be partially down. After doing my testing that I outlined earlier I left the window halfway down.
All module and harnesses have to be fully connected.
Turn the ignition switch on.
Prepare to remove fuse number 6 for the passenger window. Fuse number 5 for the driver’s window.
At the driver’s master switch hold the front passenger switch in the up position.
Remove the fuse while the window is in motion.
Release the switch.
Install the fuse.
Finish raising the window from the same switch used earlier.
Hold the switch for five seconds after the window has reached the full up position.
The process is now complete.
Fuse number 6 for the PDM
Fuse number 5 for the DDM.
Thank you for your swift response.
I picked up a replacement DDM from LKQ yesterday and installed it this morning. It appears to have corrected the problem.
Do I owe you something for your superbv article and assistance?
Good to go. Just let others know about the quality of information on the site and encourage them to visit.
Will this work on the drivers side window ?
Yes, near the end of the article I point out that you have to remove fuse number five while performing the recalibration for the driver’s door.
This worked perfect! My switch still doesn’t work but I did get the window back up.
Ty for the information .
Hi, more of a question than a comment.
On my 2004 XC90, the drivers door controls work for all components NOT in the drivers door.
However, none of the controls for the drivers door per se will work. In other words:
1. Drivers window will not go up or down.
2. Drivers mirror cannot be adjusted.
3. Drivers electronic lock will not work.
4. All other mirrors, windows and locks can be controlled from the driver’s door.
This is an intermittent fault. Occasionally there’s a lot of clicking noises (sounds like a relay or solenoid switching on and off) which seem to be coming from somewhere near the lower front of the drivers door or panel near the drivers left foot. Sometimes after these noisesx the door controls start working again.
Am I right in thinking this could be a problem with power supply to the door’s mechanisms? A dry joint? A faulty solenoid somewhere?
Possibly a faulty relay but more likely a broken wire in the door jamb harness. If you have a multimeter and want to try and do some testing please re post this in the Ask A Question section. Sparky
Thank you for your swift response.
Absolutely will post the question.
My hypothesis was a single wire coming into the door that supplies the power for all three functions. Though, in light of the clicking noises, I’m inclined to think it’s a relay rather than a broken/dry joint wire. Perhaps under/behind the steering column?
I definitely would like to post the question but am leaving today on an 8 day trip. The van will be with us but my tools (and free time) may not. I do have a multimeter.
BTW, I picked up a replacement DDM from LKQ yesterday and will test that before we head off today.
I have a 2004 XC90 and the same problem as you stated. The driver side window switch, mirror and cental lock are dead. All other functions on master switch are normal. Were you able to figure out the problem?
I would appreciate the antidote.
On the vehicle that I worked on only the passenger front window was inoperative and the relearn procedure corrected the issue. You could try performing the same relearn for the driver’s side (DDM). It is outlined near the end of the article.